 |
| Our private camp in Tarangire. |
The sun was setting: a typical Tarangire sunset that turns
the sky an amazing orange, framing cliché Umbrella acacias and baobab trees.
The campfire was lit and the solar-heated water showers were being hoisted into
the tree. One of the kids was climbing a fallen tree and setting up the go-pro
for a time-lapse photo. It had been a long and good day. After a game drive
lasting nearly 10 hours, we’d seen so much: herds of elephants coming to the
swamp to drink, countless zebra sightings, impala, giraffe, a leopard in a
tree, and a lion by a termite mound, not to mention additions to the bird-list
that the oldest boy was keeping. We’d even seen a snake: a Rufous-beaked snake,
(not an everyday sighting).
A pride of lions had begun roaring a few hundred meters
upwind at 5:30 in the morning, close enough that even a seasoned safari go-er
would say it was close. A troop of baboons was trying to get to the tall
sycamore fig-tree that was in camp, but had to settle for the sausage trees on
the edge of camp. It was the epitome of the immersion experience.
The next morning, we woke at again at dawn. The wildlife
hadn’t been quieter, but everyone had slept soundly. The kettle of cowboy
coffee simmered on the campfire as we discussed the day’s plans. It was going
to be another long day of driving, but with the opportunity to see rural life
in Tanzania. Our destination was also exciting as we were preparing to spend a
couple nights camped in a remote part of the Eyasi basin among the Hadzabe.
The last part of the drive is an adventure in itself.
Low-range is engaged and the car crawls up the hill, rock by rock until finally
the track levels out and, sheltered by a rock, camp is found, exactly the same
camp as in Tarangire. It wasn’t long before we were sitting on top of the rock,
overlooking historic Hadza hunting and gathering grounds, watching the sun go
down once again.
 |
| A Hadza high up in a baobab after following a honeyguide to the beehive. |
The next morning, a small group of Hadza hunters walked into
camp. One had already shot a hyrax and had it tucked in his belt. Honey axes
slung over their shoulders and bow and arrows in hand, they lead us to where
some women had begun digging for tubers. We were soon all distracted by the
excitement of finding kanoa, or
stingless-bee honey. Another distraction ensued when a Greater honey-guide flew
around us, chattering its call to follow. You can’t plan these spontaneous,
magical experiences.
 |
| Digging for tubers. |
I continued to dig for roots with the women as the family I
was guding followed the Hadza guides who in turn followed the bird, eventually
finding a tall baobab tree, the hive high-up on the lower side of a massive
branch. I don’t know if it is just for fun, but on numerous occasions I’ve
watched Hadza climb the baobab trees without smoke to placate the bees and haul
out the combs dripping with honey. Judging by the laughter, it seems that they
find being stung somewhat comedic. So much for African killer bees. Following a
mid-morning snack of honey, bees wax, roasted roots and hyrax liver (no kidding,
everyone tried!) we returned to camp for a more traditional (for us) sandwich
after which the Hadza hunters showed the boys how to make arrows and fire, and
in the evening took them on a short hunt.
 |
| Making fire! |
 |
| Now your turn! |
 |
| The last attempt for a hyrax before heading back to camp. |
Having spent the first four nights of the trip in the
light-weight mobile camp, we next made our way to more luxurious
accommodations, swimming pools, lawns to play soccer on, and unlimited hot
showers.
 |
| A budding wildlife film-maker watches as a breeding herd of elephants cross the plains in front of us. (Northern Serengeti) |
There is something about privacy and after visiting
Ngorongoro Crater, we were all happy to be headed to the more classic luxury
mobile camp in Serengeti; not for the luxury, but for the privacy. We’d timed
it perfectly, and rains in the northwest of Serengeti were drawing wildebeest
herds back toward the Nyamalumbwa hills, also a sanctuary for black rhino.
 |
| Watching giraffes or are they watching us? |
 |
There is something about privacy! Enjoying sunrise in the Nyamalumbwas.
|
|
|
