tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-58672621074812632082024-03-13T19:00:05.705+03:00Adventures in East AfricaEthan Kinseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16334652612139075633noreply@blogger.comBlogger77125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5867262107481263208.post-72544811563409178822020-12-19T09:15:00.000+03:002020-12-19T09:15:59.645+03:00A Different Safari Experience<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: times;">Clicking my fingers to get everyone’s attention, I cupped my hand to my ear and pointed in front of us. My finger went to my lips. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: times;">“Can you hear the ox-peckers?” I whispered.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: times;">I looked at the group I was with, reading their faces for acknowledgement. Everyone huddled in. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: times;">“That’s important, you need to pay attention?” <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: times;">“Ox-peckers could mean one of many things, right? It could be impala, giraffe or it could be something more serious. Maybe buffalo.” <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: times;">We paused to listen. An impala snorted. Our tension dissipated. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: times;">Cradling my rifle in my elbow- I asked:<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: times;">“Where’s the wind coming from? Who’s got the ash bag?” <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: times;">We all watched the wind blow a dusting of ash. We were on a game path leading to the river. By now we’d spent time differentiating lion and hyena spoor, found fairly fresh elephant tracks, and had an idea of the direction and speed the elephants had been moving in some thick brush. We’d established that it was too dangerous to try to follow the elephants into the thick bush by the river, but if we could get to the riverbank we might see them coming down to drink. We needed to be quiet, keep our eyes and ears open, and pay attention to the wind. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: times;">“Pay attention to our safe ground. Let’s continue.” <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: times;">An elephant rumbled. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: times;">“It’s o.k., that’s a content elephant sound. The wind is good, we’re being quiet, we’re good, but let’s get into position”.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p><span face="Calibri, sans-serif" style="font-family: times;">The wind had was steady, and I knew once we got to the edge of the river, we would have big fallen trees as well as the bank to keep concealed and safe. We were already walking slowly, everyone on high alert. We crept around the branches of a fallen Acacia, a small group of elephant bulls stood in the sand, oblivious to our presence. I looked over my shoulder to make sure that everyone was there and then gestured for everyone to move forward and sit. We were close enough that a mistake would definitely spook the beautiful bull. Close enough that I could feel everyone holding their breath.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: times;"><span face="Calibri, sans-serif">It was a typical training walk, similar to the ones that I conduct for various companies in Tanzania. But this one was slightly different. It wasn’t guides employed by any one company who were being trained, but a mix of interested individuals from various backgrounds. Sitting around the fire in June, Moli & Noelle from <a href="https://www.kichakaexpeditions.com/" target="_blank">Kichaka</a> and I had decided to run a course based on walking safaris, complete with rifle safety and handling. Covid had robbed us of our tourist seasons and all we wanted to do was be in the bush. We could offer a course that wouldn’t be limited to guides. Tanzania is such a biodiverse rich country and its National Parks are fairly easily accessible, yet high-quality guided experiences are generally inaccessible, not to mention a general lack of nature-based learning opportunities. For some independent guides, opportunities to practice skills and refresh were far and few between, not to mention opportunities for anyone wanting to learn guiding skills.</span><span face="Calibri, sans-serif"> </span> <br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6kTHl_G-uvE/X92PXj9qlkI/AAAAAAAACD8/0hY-pr5ZJlE-kpiZEtrDBVXVBIWn3anzACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/HVS_2019-0472.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1365" data-original-width="2048" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6kTHl_G-uvE/X92PXj9qlkI/AAAAAAAACD8/0hY-pr5ZJlE-kpiZEtrDBVXVBIWn3anzACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/HVS_2019-0472.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Moli and a group of participants (two guides from northern Tanzania) watching a herd of elephants drinking in the river. Photo credit @ <a href="http://wildlife-explorer.com/hannah" target="_blank">Hannah Strand</a>. </span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: times;">The diversity of backgrounds and interest meant that Moli and I needed to adapt our training. For some, skill proficiency was less important than the all-encompassing wilderness experience. For others, mastering the skills was necessary for their careers. Mornings became intense training sessions that lasted until lunch, then afternoons were spent at a different pace; doing yoga in the sand, game drives ending with sundowners, or fly-fishing in the river. Pretty soon, the murmurings around the campfire in the evening were revolving around how being there was so therapeutic. The big caliber rifles were intimidating, but everyone was succeeding at their own pace, overcoming their own fears and challenges. I had never expected shooting to be so transformative. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ODXk8s2yYlQ/X91NsyjEa8I/AAAAAAAACDE/jcecFl55X_wwYPweW-DqPny6esEbntnqQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/HVS_2019-0790.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1365" data-original-width="2048" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ODXk8s2yYlQ/X91NsyjEa8I/AAAAAAAACDE/jcecFl55X_wwYPweW-DqPny6esEbntnqQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/HVS_2019-0790.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Sunsets in the wilderness. Photo credit @ <a href="http://wildlife-explorer.com/hannah" target="_blank">Hannah Strand</a>. <br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: times; text-align: left;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: times; text-align: left;">Over the second week of the course, our goal wasn’t explicitly to push people out of their comfort zones, but for the bush to become more familiar. If you want to get close to wildlife, if you want to get great photos of animals, if you want to observe cat behaviour, then you need to be in a vehicle. Wildlife will let you drive right up to it in a car, but walking is a different story. As soon as you venture out as the bipedal, apex predator, wildlife behaviour changes. Like us, animals have a fight or flight instinct and keeping safe on a walk means avoiding those situations. It means heightening your senses and gaining a deeper understanding of what is going on around you. Something as simple as being aware of where the wind is coming from becomes significant. </span></div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1X1KqJaJYgg/X91NzW0TPmI/AAAAAAAACDI/Y8m_KHwx0gAqgTLoH2IGquDnZDQPi63lQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/HVS_2019-0531.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1365" data-original-width="2048" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1X1KqJaJYgg/X91NzW0TPmI/AAAAAAAACDI/Y8m_KHwx0gAqgTLoH2IGquDnZDQPi63lQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/HVS_2019-0531.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Crossing one of the Ruaha's tributaries. Photo credit @ <a href="http://wildlife-explorer.com/hannah" target="_blank">Hannah Strand</a>.</span><span style="font-family: times;"><br style="text-align: left;" /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><br />As the course drew to an end, it was apparent that it had been a success. We had touched a hunger for a glimpse into the deeper workings of wildlife behaviour and ecology, the opportunity to spend an extended period of time in one place, and learning skills that would further open up an appreciation of the natural world. <div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qbu4lJlFCFg/X92aCZJkDZI/AAAAAAAACEI/9TubXVPHguwzOlTvVBqqA2CrHiSp5C6cACLcBGAsYHQ/s2966/IMG_9497.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1061" data-original-width="2966" height="229" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qbu4lJlFCFg/X92aCZJkDZI/AAAAAAAACEI/9TubXVPHguwzOlTvVBqqA2CrHiSp5C6cACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h229/IMG_9497.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="http://wildlife-explorer.com/hannah" target="_blank">Hannah Strand</a> leading a restorative yoga session on a sandbank.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><i>(At the end of October I successfully organized a similar course in Tarangire. We focused on the naturalist and interpretive side of guiding- birding, tracking, and botany. A couple captioned images of that course <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CHDLhtanzLq/" target="_blank">here</a> and <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CG5C3mfHlhC/" target="_blank">here</a>. If this experience interests you, <u>we are running an Serengeti special in February</u>. E-mail me for the itinerary and details.)</i></div><div><p></p><div><br /></div></div>Ethan Kinseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16334652612139075633noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5867262107481263208.post-10199193912277019192020-12-15T04:12:00.001+03:002020-12-15T19:52:02.275+03:00A Private Guided Safari in Covid Times<p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-COPYv4bUWDQ/X9f9k0pLvmI/AAAAAAAACBw/Y3LKqu3VY-07AidIXNXjmqRS9NJIO6EiACLcBGAsYHQ/s4096/9C5A2BAE-1C3B-468B-A268-E8B02F366393.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2144" data-original-width="4096" height="336" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-COPYv4bUWDQ/X9f9k0pLvmI/AAAAAAAACBw/Y3LKqu3VY-07AidIXNXjmqRS9NJIO6EiACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h336/9C5A2BAE-1C3B-468B-A268-E8B02F366393.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Alone at the picnic site in Ngorongoro Crater. </span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: times;"></span><p></p><p><span style="font-family: times;">As the uncertainty around travel had forced many people to cancel or postpone their safaris, I had nearly rubbed everything off of my safari calendar. “If anyone is going to pull it off, it’s going to be you” said Moli as we sat by a campfire staring at the Milky Way. I kept my fingers crossed. The logistics were getting more and more complicated as the once reliable local airlines began shutting down their operations. We were the only booking on the charts for some of the remote camps, and international flight cancellations and policy changes were making us anxious. Everything needed a plan B and a plan C. Not only were we climbing Kilimanjaro, but we were flying across Tanzania to visit the Mahale Mountains to see chimps. What about covid and the chimps? Was I being irresponsible? With a solid plan in place and the support of every player in the itinerary, I held my breath. The lengthy discussions on mask protocols, hygiene, dining, what-ifs repeated themselves.</span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EW6ePFlNgpQ/X9f_7fUo0sI/AAAAAAAACB8/8ZWx9JDVWdQPxbxwEmVjcELZIKC_pCgyACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_8854.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="912" data-original-width="2048" height="284" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EW6ePFlNgpQ/X9f_7fUo0sI/AAAAAAAACB8/8ZWx9JDVWdQPxbxwEmVjcELZIKC_pCgyACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h284/IMG_8854.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">One of the incredible views of Kilimanjaro on the Lemosho route. </span></td></tr></tbody></table><p><span style="font-family: times;">The last time I climbed Kilimanjaro was in 2000, my senior year of high school. I loved outdoor pursuits and teachers often took my name off the sign-up lists for mountain trips to give others a chance. Yet, as a guide, I had not been up the iconic mountain. One route I had never done on Kilimanjaro was the west approach across the Shira plateau. Known as the Lemosho route, this is the longer approach. At 8 or 9 days, it offers the highest success rates because it gives you the most acclimatization time. To call it the most scenic would do injustice to the beauty of the whole mountain, but it does offer some magnificent angles. Having a high-success rate doesn’t make it an easier route but under the brilliant leadership of <a href="https://www.summits-africa.com/">Summits Africa</a> guide we all summited. </span></p><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm;"><o:p><span style="font-family: times;"></span></o:p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Du8p37nfOZ4/X9gAhcw8NeI/AAAAAAAACCE/NNMLQiiS0Kw6_HyoKF4d-WdwSvHBvdejACLcBGAsYHQ/s2603/IMG_9020.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1208" data-original-width="2603" height="298" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Du8p37nfOZ4/X9gAhcw8NeI/AAAAAAAACCE/NNMLQiiS0Kw6_HyoKF4d-WdwSvHBvdejACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h298/IMG_9020.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">The snow capped peak and dwindling glaciers from Uhuru peak. </span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: times;">Our next destination was northern Serengeti where we hoped to find some wildebeest but also experience the incredible resident wildlife. Northern Serengeti is fast becoming known for exceptional leopard viewing and we were rewarded by a leopardess with two adult cubs who allowed us to follow her for a few hours one morning. Watch a snippet <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CFTu27Gn0TI/" target="_blank">here</a>. In addition to some of the Serengeti’s best wildlife viewing, it is just a beautiful area and I love it any time of year. I chose to stay at <a href="https://www.nomad-tanzania.com/camps/northern-tanzania/serengeti-national-park/lamai-serengeti" target="_blank">Nomad’s Lamai camp</a>. Nestled into a rocky outcrop known as Wogakuria it looks out on the rolling hills towards the Mara river and onto the Lamai plains on the north. With so few people in camp (us and a film crew), the staff were eager to not only show off their masks and covid protocols but also set up an amazing bush lunch for us. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: times;"> </span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fxYjwalWxk8/X9gBZcwcMiI/AAAAAAAACCQ/wc9opRwgfGQHARN-YlqQvE1YCfuRljoyQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/7D90FB3A-5BD5-4E2C-9ABF-89D17BFB1BEE.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1638" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fxYjwalWxk8/X9gBZcwcMiI/AAAAAAAACCQ/wc9opRwgfGQHARN-YlqQvE1YCfuRljoyQCLcBGAsYHQ/w512-h640/7D90FB3A-5BD5-4E2C-9ABF-89D17BFB1BEE.JPG" width="512" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">After a full morning of game viewing we pulled up for lunch in this beautiful setting. A massive herd of wildebeest made its way down towards the river, scattered by a herd of thirty elephant making their way from the river. </span></td></tr></tbody></table><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: times;"><br /></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: times;">From Serengeti we flew across to the shores of Lake Tanganyika. Lake Tanganyika is a long, deep rift valley lake. In fact, it is the longest lake in the world, and second to only Lake Baikal in depth. It contains almost one sixth of the Earth’s fresh water, but we hadn’t come for the beach. The forests along its shores are home to Tanzania’s population of chimpanzees and Nomad was opening <a href="https://www.nomad-tanzania.com/camps/western-tanzania/mahale-national-park/greystoke-mahale" target="_blank">Greystoke</a> for us. The guides had difficulty containing their excitement too. Greystoke has an incredible team of guides who were all part of the chimpanzee research team. They know the chimpanzee the way we know the people in our communities, and they hadn’t seen them in months. In the few months preceding the Covid closing, Primus, the alpha male was being challenged with by a serious rivalry and they were keen to see who had taken over.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: times;">Humans and chimps are so close genetically that we were obviously concerned that we were taking a risk, however, chimp viewing rules in Mahale had for nearly the last decade made people wear masks. Since the masks had been introduced, no chimp (that we know of) had gotten a cold from a human so we were pretty confident that if we took extra precautions with hand washing and hand sanitizing we didn't pose a risk. Most importantly we would also not push the distance recommendations and comply with the guides. As a side note- "social distancing" from chimps is 10 meters (30ft) not 2m, which seems to be the current CDC recommendation. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mNXN8ejSOgI/X9gDTpjroWI/AAAAAAAACCc/gl6gIK6rYm8TnVByUPV1Fasi1nJBo7GDQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1616/DSC07032.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1616" height="428" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mNXN8ejSOgI/X9gDTpjroWI/AAAAAAAACCc/gl6gIK6rYm8TnVByUPV1Fasi1nJBo7GDQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h428/DSC07032.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Michio, one of the adult males who was a potential contender for alpha male. The guides are happy that it appears that Teddy has taken the reigns. Teddy is a gentle male, and they expect great chimp viewing while he is at the top. </span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: times;">Rounding off the itinerary we departed Mahale for Ruaha National Park to wrap things up with a walking safari and ultimately a night of fly camping. I have spent enough time in Ruaha that it has not only had a formative influence on my guiding, but has also influenced my perceptions of what a great wilderness is. A sentence with Ruaha in it rarely doesn’t include walking safaris and so we set off for a remote corner that <a href="https://www.kichakaexpeditions.com/about" target="_blank">Moli & Noelle</a> have carved out an exclusive operation. Perched atop a bluff overlooking the Ruaha River is the main camp and we arrived in time to settle in and grab a drink by the campfire to watch the sun go down. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sC_YBGtLCtQ/X9gEHrCkC6I/AAAAAAAACCo/0K-X2bHYIm0oQnC9UWJg8QHBuNfoYmlOgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1616/DSC07084.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1616" height="428" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sC_YBGtLCtQ/X9gEHrCkC6I/AAAAAAAACCo/0K-X2bHYIm0oQnC9UWJg8QHBuNfoYmlOgCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h428/DSC07084.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">A typical, dry season, Ruaha sunset.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p>Ethan Kinseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16334652612139075633noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5867262107481263208.post-50915650635716724162020-03-26T14:30:00.000+03:002020-03-26T14:30:03.562+03:00A Journey Through Ethiopia: Part 6 Chebera Churchura<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-size: 12pt;">Our last stop on this journey through Ethiopia was a small National Park called Chebera Churchura. High up in another mountainous region of Ethiopia, this National park barely features on any map. Like many of the Ethiopian National Parks, preservation of the natural habitats has come second to development, and a massive tarmac road was being cut through the forests like an ugly amazonian logging road. We’d come in search of one of the last strongholds of elephant in Ethiopia- and the enchanted forest in which they roam. We had arrived a little early in the season and the vegetation was still incredibly thick. Walking was a high-alert, high-adrenaline activity as we wandered the forests catching glimpses of Bushpigs. </span></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mIrCM-Mnbc4/Xnx2aQEEt7I/AAAAAAAAB7o/iDkBRVJ4rKMPPMdgLEQu3mgwCwV1WKc3gCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_7193.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="358" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mIrCM-Mnbc4/Xnx2aQEEt7I/AAAAAAAAB7o/iDkBRVJ4rKMPPMdgLEQu3mgwCwV1WKc3gCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_7193.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Camped in an enchanted forest.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-size: 12pt;">We were very fortunate to catch some good views of elephants, occasionally clambering into trees to see above the ground cover. The real highlight of this park came the last night, when we took a walk that took us past some hot-springs that were frequented by people and their cattle. As we returned, the local rangers suggested that because no one was around that we sit on the rocks above the springs and see what might enfold. A troop of baboons came down and began their politics, but oblivious to our presence they created an atmosphere of trust, and minutes later, a Giant forest hog wandered into the clearing. A sow with hog-lets joined him. As we sat, filming and photographing, more sows came out and as the darkness began to threaten, we counted a total of 21 Giant Forest Hogs.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /><span style="font-size: 12pt;"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bNwEnFfu3wY/XnyRwApS-iI/AAAAAAAAB9Q/fu5xEdRPcAQASFmqvwxDs8cJiE__hCbpQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_7210.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bNwEnFfu3wY/XnyRwApS-iI/AAAAAAAAB9Q/fu5xEdRPcAQASFmqvwxDs8cJiE__hCbpQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_7210.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yXVF0C9uV40/XnyRt_gFaSI/AAAAAAAAB9M/ISRcKmi8diMSGxwWOn9ZmjnFI89lM2XoACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_DSC0187.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="902" data-original-width="1340" height="428" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yXVF0C9uV40/XnyRt_gFaSI/AAAAAAAAB9M/ISRcKmi8diMSGxwWOn9ZmjnFI89lM2XoACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_DSC0187.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Giant Forest Hog and hoglets are a forest species.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
Ethan Kinseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16334652612139075633noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5867262107481263208.post-66962936624477709062020-03-26T14:17:00.003+03:002020-03-26T14:17:52.611+03:00A Journey Through Ethiopia: Part 5 People of The Omo Valley<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vY6YiTqZwJM/XnxzBk3QjwI/AAAAAAAAB64/nINoFRLL_XE0arS2BoKlXEB3L1-JG8PDQCEwYBhgLKs0DAMBZVoCTwyfINjoumGuKKd_0mEJ5tH7oIYJ_BjB_3RQ-ppwtccURRPsY7LGwQnl_OehR_nsZJfqJg_PWBC6lxeikpB8ii5OrTsgJPkRy52Go-tlsj3T6JIhy4JG4GO8un-4zTsJ_xx1aKxZiaUyO8nfRJvh7eqvVUSLpcwTQOBk8ujvuX-hPWecbsgx_Ge2U-7jrvaw5HjVNHB62xGUWi9UZ2rILk-xrqZaHWv_CTT27KR3FGcY3YNL6akcgo0R8nHudHUHO0unOkeB3mf0gB-1SmStC0uOc6dTrSPmMdH2w_AAXSoA0AazRJZGk2vHLMwHwYiiQNcTeHLG4NZJpz2wbMskJaDGb6iTyDhUXw5fM162uyE-_cEUHN5uTFOqbhFDsO29ggYDgVFsYonRIANORoipqxtT_bEJgwgcBPKpLVaSi4vr5JkDFpq1-8KPurL8Zzreo3wZMEs5knW2DpE_YTicYJSTBGNFfbGTE-Lhic8TrtYKmZrcxnhcbWmk9ZwYfXv4yTxBQePXy5anJ03vDNZzzwL09YdVDko_uiP1_p_X0I0JF-UIC9GGR9Wy9UzTLdZSWLH1v5zsDe1gyjdPgsgsP7qbyr35YI2wwjuzx8wU/s1600/IMG_7132.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1065" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vY6YiTqZwJM/XnxzBk3QjwI/AAAAAAAAB64/nINoFRLL_XE0arS2BoKlXEB3L1-JG8PDQCEwYBhgLKs0DAMBZVoCTwyfINjoumGuKKd_0mEJ5tH7oIYJ_BjB_3RQ-ppwtccURRPsY7LGwQnl_OehR_nsZJfqJg_PWBC6lxeikpB8ii5OrTsgJPkRy52Go-tlsj3T6JIhy4JG4GO8un-4zTsJ_xx1aKxZiaUyO8nfRJvh7eqvVUSLpcwTQOBk8ujvuX-hPWecbsgx_Ge2U-7jrvaw5HjVNHB62xGUWi9UZ2rILk-xrqZaHWv_CTT27KR3FGcY3YNL6akcgo0R8nHudHUHO0unOkeB3mf0gB-1SmStC0uOc6dTrSPmMdH2w_AAXSoA0AazRJZGk2vHLMwHwYiiQNcTeHLG4NZJpz2wbMskJaDGb6iTyDhUXw5fM162uyE-_cEUHN5uTFOqbhFDsO29ggYDgVFsYonRIANORoipqxtT_bEJgwgcBPKpLVaSi4vr5JkDFpq1-8KPurL8Zzreo3wZMEs5knW2DpE_YTicYJSTBGNFfbGTE-Lhic8TrtYKmZrcxnhcbWmk9ZwYfXv4yTxBQePXy5anJ03vDNZzzwL09YdVDko_uiP1_p_X0I0JF-UIC9GGR9Wy9UzTLdZSWLH1v5zsDe1gyjdPgsgsP7qbyr35YI2wwjuzx8wU/s640/IMG_7132.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Camped out on the edge of the Omo River, Kara country, Ethiopia.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
Anyone who has turned the pages of the book African Ceremonies will be familiar with the images of people with painted bodies, people with elaborate braided and ochre-coloured hair, people wearing massive lip-plates, and photos of boys running over the backs of bulls. All of these images come from the famous Omo valley in southern Ethiopia, where the livelihoods of these tribes is now threatened by hydro dams and massive commercial sugar cane farm developments and changing political administrative structures.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
We ventured into the Omo valley, our schedule very flexible, but with the hope of visiting the Mursi, Hamar, Bana, & Kara. The following images and captions represent the experience more than any narrative.</div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JyxtSmEzo2s/XnxzBYJtHII/AAAAAAAAB6c/a33pX_ZrBfQr1DMto8wAgDdseJkMSN1UQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_7133.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1350" data-original-width="1080" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JyxtSmEzo2s/XnxzBYJtHII/AAAAAAAAB6c/a33pX_ZrBfQr1DMto8wAgDdseJkMSN1UQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_7133.JPG" width="512" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Kara man, with his rusty rifle. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TxM4TjS1Swk/XnxzBZcDbSI/AAAAAAAAB6g/uWPCpdayF0w4UZYwLM0ev6nnDszoqrKxgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_7138.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1078" data-original-width="1078" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TxM4TjS1Swk/XnxzBZcDbSI/AAAAAAAAB6g/uWPCpdayF0w4UZYwLM0ev6nnDszoqrKxgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_7138.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Drinking coffee husk tea with the Bana.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4AcebVcyhF0/Xnx0t46E_HI/AAAAAAAAB7E/uwiHazpHSvcmRw918F35ZiguozSMGy-JwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_DSC9530.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="926" data-original-width="759" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4AcebVcyhF0/Xnx0t46E_HI/AAAAAAAAB7E/uwiHazpHSvcmRw918F35ZiguozSMGy-JwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_DSC9530.JPG" width="523" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Mursi girl dons her adornment for a photo. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-h_CLw5IReiA/Xnx0uiT4noI/AAAAAAAAB7Q/7rPfKUvhKpI3buhaOtIVtDtRebqNLmtpQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_DSC9535.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="675" data-original-width="639" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-h_CLw5IReiA/Xnx0uiT4noI/AAAAAAAAB7Q/7rPfKUvhKpI3buhaOtIVtDtRebqNLmtpQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_DSC9535.JPG" width="603" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NERpUj7Eq2Y/Xnx0t4w8_2I/AAAAAAAAB7I/rWsj3ILqZ88sMrhjKrEiTa0j0B7ouDyhgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_6999.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NERpUj7Eq2Y/Xnx0t4w8_2I/AAAAAAAAB7I/rWsj3ILqZ88sMrhjKrEiTa0j0B7ouDyhgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_6999.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In addition to lip plugs, the Mursi also stretch out their earlobes. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6vsP4fObFz8/Xnx0uGQAAfI/AAAAAAAAB7M/KL-vOyb7s98gfCki4oeuueSf-v91AxxPgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_6998.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6vsP4fObFz8/Xnx0uGQAAfI/AAAAAAAAB7M/KL-vOyb7s98gfCki4oeuueSf-v91AxxPgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_6998.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A recently formed clay lip-plate dries in the afternoon sun.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rHhmz_ybKFQ/XnyADkc0_JI/AAAAAAAAB74/EardJUSU5eMSIwqn53f_okwrKVlfN0GhQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_7064.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rHhmz_ybKFQ/XnyADkc0_JI/AAAAAAAAB74/EardJUSU5eMSIwqn53f_okwrKVlfN0GhQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_7064.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Hamar jumping of the bulls ceremony which begins with women being whipped and dancing.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<o:p></o:p>Ethan Kinseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16334652612139075633noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5867262107481263208.post-4765847239866626252020-03-26T14:17:00.002+03:002020-03-26T14:17:42.295+03:00A Journey Through Ethiopia: Part 4 The Bale Mountains<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
After some long days in the car and the intense heat of the Danakil, the cool of the Bale Mountains came as a relief. We arrived at Bale Mountain Lodge in the dark and woke the next morning to the mist rising from the forest to reveal a beautiful glade, the Harenna forest as the dark backdrop. A pair of Abyssinian slatey flycatchers perched on a branch, occasionally swooping for an insects while we sipped our coffee. A fantastic White-cheeked turaco swooped </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
into the tree above the lodge.<o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IWl05cGEZbk/Xnxxa7_U-GI/AAAAAAAAB50/MGlZQ9_Hn6MEz8cdzBEg5acqGIqULJZfQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_6684.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="840" data-original-width="1600" height="334" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IWl05cGEZbk/Xnxxa7_U-GI/AAAAAAAAB50/MGlZQ9_Hn6MEz8cdzBEg5acqGIqULJZfQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_6684.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An incredible view of the Harena forest in the Bale Mountains. Bale Mountain Lodge.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; text-align: center;">The Bale Mountains are a series of extinct volcanoes that form a plateau known as the Senneti. Rising from around 2,000m to over 4,400m above sea level. One the south side, they are covered in an enchanted forest known as the Harenna forest, home to shy lions and Giant Forest Hog. The north side is covered in beautiful Pencil cedar and Hygenia abyssinica, and graced by the beautiful Mountain Nyala, while the top of the plateau is covered in alpine grasslands, dotted with red hot pokers and giant lobelias, but more importantly, home to the last stronghold of the Ethiopian wolf.</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
It was the wolf that had brought us here, so we bundled up, grabbed a packed lunch and headed up to the plateau. As we drove up above the heather zone and onto the afro-alpine moorlands on this glaciated landscape, the presence of a prey base became very evident by the impressive number and diversity of large raptors. Augur buzzards, steppe eagles, tawny eagles, the occasional lesser-spotted eagle rode the updrafts searching for rodents. A pair of Verreaux eagles worked a cliff face in search of hyrax. <o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p8FYdxK_lps/Xnxx_wuMnSI/AAAAAAAAB6Q/f9dMSyxkwowEXzh7KLlNqWhCImbKsbt8gCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_DSC8108.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="425" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p8FYdxK_lps/Xnxx_wuMnSI/AAAAAAAAB6Q/f9dMSyxkwowEXzh7KLlNqWhCImbKsbt8gCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_DSC8108.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Simien wolf or Ethiopian wolf has adapted to eating rodents.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-size: 12pt;">Finally, after driving across nearly half the plateau, we spotted our first wolves. Grabbing our binoculars, lenses, tripods we began the stalk. This became the routine of the day and by late lunchtime we’d seen nine wolves. Some very habituated had let us get within meters of them, others kept a distance of 50m. Satisfied we returned to the lodge.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<o:p> </o:p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
The next day we pulled off the bumpy main road onto a small track that leads to one of the wolf research stations. Our landrover was parked, the camp supplies spread out on the ground as the horse team began divvying up loads, rolling mattresses and tying the loads onto the horses. Three horses were saddled and ready to ride, so after figuring out what we needed we proceeded to mount and set off. Within 5 minutes we had seen our first wolf of the day. The sun was shining and we rode across the spectacular landscape, past giant lobelias and clumps of everlasting flowers. The views were intense and soon I realized I needed to be on the ground to capture any photos and videos of this incredible ride. Around lunchtime, we rode up through a pass and stopped to take in the panorama. High peaks rose up behind us, and before us a steep sided valley with a small lake. Not a soul in sight.<o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EbDBg-z0EDs/XnxxcgLgIwI/AAAAAAAAB6I/732eaoOJoSAlwnBHEazQzGZOBAlkZ6ekgCEwYBhgLKs0DAMBZVoDuf6Em2yShu-2-THLYvkOazl0oWwc66DInE2yNeYuo-JqBfHhtPZioAeA_QYgm1GtdOUciwgFTSrEIcgucP_yqsUrLsC6grbb1dDJL29P_uX-aghL0Orm2DWZAQm_l95Y5oSlZ-MD90VBsnl9f8huml3vr3Sv4mWFu9GQJv-9IC7XiUSPRw4fNlxjqQpvzwlng1DQVojYoZXe-vJ1crp4PosaO2EevI5txbsosUJP2Db3r4CdHlBc11FNX7IOgpqsjjEGzHaxdZ_y4L6rEtAbfEo5-QohQzi2j2_-mvktph9wUwCFpkCW-GchrSiow_2Dt_0dIOcMcqsdSwwj4vR-fSbTBz_oO3JxX53G9Qy_ciK_wbP5gpnVgd2eUQPEgAo1M-Bc6Pd8H2rFnplx4ng_DQYkkBmRKtlIE6birxPA_XSm6p6sAKCsITEnsu0Yw60oGeUzt94ad7Bora0lVS8w7N23AcKg8vBSpu40fohqzT6YcrrtXqGONfY4WfjidLCD-aJRj_7p6pdkAZfq8jnROFe-K41yLk-fnY71c12jP1slQ9GliTGchCYr8CMjswdXv8mGhev54OfV16MMT6n_7q2I6NeB2w-4wxOnx8wU/s1600/IMG_6685.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="643" data-original-width="1600" height="256" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EbDBg-z0EDs/XnxxcgLgIwI/AAAAAAAAB6I/732eaoOJoSAlwnBHEazQzGZOBAlkZ6ekgCEwYBhgLKs0DAMBZVoDuf6Em2yShu-2-THLYvkOazl0oWwc66DInE2yNeYuo-JqBfHhtPZioAeA_QYgm1GtdOUciwgFTSrEIcgucP_yqsUrLsC6grbb1dDJL29P_uX-aghL0Orm2DWZAQm_l95Y5oSlZ-MD90VBsnl9f8huml3vr3Sv4mWFu9GQJv-9IC7XiUSPRw4fNlxjqQpvzwlng1DQVojYoZXe-vJ1crp4PosaO2EevI5txbsosUJP2Db3r4CdHlBc11FNX7IOgpqsjjEGzHaxdZ_y4L6rEtAbfEo5-QohQzi2j2_-mvktph9wUwCFpkCW-GchrSiow_2Dt_0dIOcMcqsdSwwj4vR-fSbTBz_oO3JxX53G9Qy_ciK_wbP5gpnVgd2eUQPEgAo1M-Bc6Pd8H2rFnplx4ng_DQYkkBmRKtlIE6birxPA_XSm6p6sAKCsITEnsu0Yw60oGeUzt94ad7Bora0lVS8w7N23AcKg8vBSpu40fohqzT6YcrrtXqGONfY4WfjidLCD-aJRj_7p6pdkAZfq8jnROFe-K41yLk-fnY71c12jP1slQ9GliTGchCYr8CMjswdXv8mGhev54OfV16MMT6n_7q2I6NeB2w-4wxOnx8wU/s640/IMG_6685.HEIC" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Glacial features in the Bale Mountains.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-size: 12pt;">We continued, down through the valley, across another ridge, and then up through another valley. Pausing for a rest in one valley, we glassed a cliff face where a pair of golden eagles displayed, eventually landing next to their nest. That afternoon, we rode up over the final ridge and descended to our campsite. Tea was ready as we pulled in and we relaxed watching the horses graze in the flats below.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<o:p> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3ONMRl0AFZw/XnxxZM_2axI/AAAAAAAAB6A/LcEVESfFpWgDezPnxY18rMtg7Q2sY0UBwCEwYBhgLKs0DAMBZVoC3_A-D2S7NTA_QpJZ4a7cVH1l7gG6yvRNf0MAapxu0fWTOPVdW59tJSh-JMqFAftFrdhFl49cf7lsXWuC1jHfMy-7qlRZa92zEvvqVbGffAGMP3htTi9thbBBr0M06QWJe8qW3WZOp73aygFZe3xitztLkFbm6bGtzkrW16NuIiLILYnV-xL-ixO5gvyx9l9uzeVhLwpH5E_c8WCUzyGqI7Tw5ULRPRCOPqNQ1fBmjXGtyOIvZchNq90fWqtUsrUYXV4iGL8_R7KuB9t_VF-42_IlW4gxYCxz-8xY3dq6Vo6yyuwbzDKS4V6ifyqXN2ssXYMfoq9RPwweXfe0G-THGLShNlMMIBJtfVaSMqp8RybfD_yzzOq14WudtP_fisEYpQaUEOdbpJqOpylcptL2qedhbDa00kcNrViGO-ic_mRWSuIf5_4Hc55UwaDc4EWvGNy4ivAVtutbSyGlqOcmm5Ta0mM6ujTZcl1VWHMwSaP3f45mLNZiEJwRu7-vKcfdkXR89WJwel9uhljCMRAXHXlkA4Gf8CzoO7vBudskVuQe2YxqxbwTCx_nvU4pdWyGZTpR5r0QXupjBLoc4l7csbBep7tyzH2Ywkerx8wU/s1600/IMG_6877.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1080" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3ONMRl0AFZw/XnxxZM_2axI/AAAAAAAAB6A/LcEVESfFpWgDezPnxY18rMtg7Q2sY0UBwCEwYBhgLKs0DAMBZVoC3_A-D2S7NTA_QpJZ4a7cVH1l7gG6yvRNf0MAapxu0fWTOPVdW59tJSh-JMqFAftFrdhFl49cf7lsXWuC1jHfMy-7qlRZa92zEvvqVbGffAGMP3htTi9thbBBr0M06QWJe8qW3WZOp73aygFZe3xitztLkFbm6bGtzkrW16NuIiLILYnV-xL-ixO5gvyx9l9uzeVhLwpH5E_c8WCUzyGqI7Tw5ULRPRCOPqNQ1fBmjXGtyOIvZchNq90fWqtUsrUYXV4iGL8_R7KuB9t_VF-42_IlW4gxYCxz-8xY3dq6Vo6yyuwbzDKS4V6ifyqXN2ssXYMfoq9RPwweXfe0G-THGLShNlMMIBJtfVaSMqp8RybfD_yzzOq14WudtP_fisEYpQaUEOdbpJqOpylcptL2qedhbDa00kcNrViGO-ic_mRWSuIf5_4Hc55UwaDc4EWvGNy4ivAVtutbSyGlqOcmm5Ta0mM6ujTZcl1VWHMwSaP3f45mLNZiEJwRu7-vKcfdkXR89WJwel9uhljCMRAXHXlkA4Gf8CzoO7vBudskVuQe2YxqxbwTCx_nvU4pdWyGZTpR5r0QXupjBLoc4l7csbBep7tyzH2Ywkerx8wU/s400/IMG_6877.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Great trails for riding the local horses or hiking.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</o:p></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QVqDBUEa40U/XnxxaA526mI/AAAAAAAAB6M/5nPVm_YX_YgrNaYzJXxnYVohRJvygicfgCEwYBhgLKs0DAMBZVoC3_A-D2S7NTA_QpJZ4a7cVH1l7gG6yvRNf0MAapxu0fWTOPVdW59tJSh-JMqFAftFrdhFl49cf7lsXWuC1jHfMy-7qlRZa92zEvvqVbGffAGMP3htTi9thbBBr0M06QWJe8qW3WZOp73aygFZe3xitztLkFbm6bGtzkrW16NuIiLILYnV-xL-ixO5gvyx9l9uzeVhLwpH5E_c8WCUzyGqI7Tw5ULRPRCOPqNQ1fBmjXGtyOIvZchNq90fWqtUsrUYXV4iGL8_R7KuB9t_VF-42_IlW4gxYCxz-8xY3dq6Vo6yyuwbzDKS4V6ifyqXN2ssXYMfoq9RPwweXfe0G-THGLShNlMMIBJtfVaSMqp8RybfD_yzzOq14WudtP_fisEYpQaUEOdbpJqOpylcptL2qedhbDa00kcNrViGO-ic_mRWSuIf5_4Hc55UwaDc4EWvGNy4ivAVtutbSyGlqOcmm5Ta0mM6ujTZcl1VWHMwSaP3f45mLNZiEJwRu7-vKcfdkXR89WJwel9uhljCMRAXHXlkA4Gf8CzoO7vBudskVuQe2YxqxbwTCx_nvU4pdWyGZTpR5r0QXupjBLoc4l7csbBep7tyzH2Ywkerx8wU/s1600/IMG_6878.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1080" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QVqDBUEa40U/XnxxaA526mI/AAAAAAAAB6M/5nPVm_YX_YgrNaYzJXxnYVohRJvygicfgCEwYBhgLKs0DAMBZVoC3_A-D2S7NTA_QpJZ4a7cVH1l7gG6yvRNf0MAapxu0fWTOPVdW59tJSh-JMqFAftFrdhFl49cf7lsXWuC1jHfMy-7qlRZa92zEvvqVbGffAGMP3htTi9thbBBr0M06QWJe8qW3WZOp73aygFZe3xitztLkFbm6bGtzkrW16NuIiLILYnV-xL-ixO5gvyx9l9uzeVhLwpH5E_c8WCUzyGqI7Tw5ULRPRCOPqNQ1fBmjXGtyOIvZchNq90fWqtUsrUYXV4iGL8_R7KuB9t_VF-42_IlW4gxYCxz-8xY3dq6Vo6yyuwbzDKS4V6ifyqXN2ssXYMfoq9RPwweXfe0G-THGLShNlMMIBJtfVaSMqp8RybfD_yzzOq14WudtP_fisEYpQaUEOdbpJqOpylcptL2qedhbDa00kcNrViGO-ic_mRWSuIf5_4Hc55UwaDc4EWvGNy4ivAVtutbSyGlqOcmm5Ta0mM6ujTZcl1VWHMwSaP3f45mLNZiEJwRu7-vKcfdkXR89WJwel9uhljCMRAXHXlkA4Gf8CzoO7vBudskVuQe2YxqxbwTCx_nvU4pdWyGZTpR5r0QXupjBLoc4l7csbBep7tyzH2Ywkerx8wU/s400/IMG_6878.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Around every corner was another expansive view. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-htgexUmUGvY/XnxxbMly6SI/AAAAAAAAB6E/oyoPR5ByvfAxACp2fZOa_QJkQWvPQnkXACEwYBhgLKs0DAMBZVoC3_A-D2S7NTA_QpJZ4a7cVH1l7gG6yvRNf0MAapxu0fWTOPVdW59tJSh-JMqFAftFrdhFl49cf7lsXWuC1jHfMy-7qlRZa92zEvvqVbGffAGMP3htTi9thbBBr0M06QWJe8qW3WZOp73aygFZe3xitztLkFbm6bGtzkrW16NuIiLILYnV-xL-ixO5gvyx9l9uzeVhLwpH5E_c8WCUzyGqI7Tw5ULRPRCOPqNQ1fBmjXGtyOIvZchNq90fWqtUsrUYXV4iGL8_R7KuB9t_VF-42_IlW4gxYCxz-8xY3dq6Vo6yyuwbzDKS4V6ifyqXN2ssXYMfoq9RPwweXfe0G-THGLShNlMMIBJtfVaSMqp8RybfD_yzzOq14WudtP_fisEYpQaUEOdbpJqOpylcptL2qedhbDa00kcNrViGO-ic_mRWSuIf5_4Hc55UwaDc4EWvGNy4ivAVtutbSyGlqOcmm5Ta0mM6ujTZcl1VWHMwSaP3f45mLNZiEJwRu7-vKcfdkXR89WJwel9uhljCMRAXHXlkA4Gf8CzoO7vBudskVuQe2YxqxbwTCx_nvU4pdWyGZTpR5r0QXupjBLoc4l7csbBep7tyzH2Ywkerx8wU/s1600/IMG_6879.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1080" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-htgexUmUGvY/XnxxbMly6SI/AAAAAAAAB6E/oyoPR5ByvfAxACp2fZOa_QJkQWvPQnkXACEwYBhgLKs0DAMBZVoC3_A-D2S7NTA_QpJZ4a7cVH1l7gG6yvRNf0MAapxu0fWTOPVdW59tJSh-JMqFAftFrdhFl49cf7lsXWuC1jHfMy-7qlRZa92zEvvqVbGffAGMP3htTi9thbBBr0M06QWJe8qW3WZOp73aygFZe3xitztLkFbm6bGtzkrW16NuIiLILYnV-xL-ixO5gvyx9l9uzeVhLwpH5E_c8WCUzyGqI7Tw5ULRPRCOPqNQ1fBmjXGtyOIvZchNq90fWqtUsrUYXV4iGL8_R7KuB9t_VF-42_IlW4gxYCxz-8xY3dq6Vo6yyuwbzDKS4V6ifyqXN2ssXYMfoq9RPwweXfe0G-THGLShNlMMIBJtfVaSMqp8RybfD_yzzOq14WudtP_fisEYpQaUEOdbpJqOpylcptL2qedhbDa00kcNrViGO-ic_mRWSuIf5_4Hc55UwaDc4EWvGNy4ivAVtutbSyGlqOcmm5Ta0mM6ujTZcl1VWHMwSaP3f45mLNZiEJwRu7-vKcfdkXR89WJwel9uhljCMRAXHXlkA4Gf8CzoO7vBudskVuQe2YxqxbwTCx_nvU4pdWyGZTpR5r0QXupjBLoc4l7csbBep7tyzH2Ywkerx8wU/s400/IMG_6879.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Glacial valleys where Black Eagles soared.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-size: 12pt;">That night was cold, and we woke to a small layer of ice on our tents. The clouds were low, hiding the magnificent peaks, but as the sun rose so did the cloud. We set off again. Today was mostly downhill and we followed a stream down through the valley finally coming out in the Web valley. This was one of the last strongholds for the Ethiopian wolf and we watched a pair forage while we ate our lunch. Another couple kilometers and we rode into camp. Again, tea was ready but we were also eager to photograph the wolves so we quickly set off on foot.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
Ethiopian wolves live in small packs with an alpha male & female. During the day they forage individually, their physique specialized for hunting rodents. With big ears, pointed muzzles and sharp teeth, they pounce on their favourite prey, the endemic Giant Mole Rat as well as a host of other species. Their social interactions occur early in the morning, and late in the evening and involve a short greeting ritual. We hoped to witness this.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<o:p> <table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-m9sKg8_HJ7U/XnyOz3tE88I/AAAAAAAAB9A/1eIWCmhjBjMlFvi9YJaXhoXy4dy1tE6KACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_6800.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="838" data-original-width="1600" height="334" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-m9sKg8_HJ7U/XnyOz3tE88I/AAAAAAAAB9A/1eIWCmhjBjMlFvi9YJaXhoXy4dy1tE6KACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_6800.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Expansive alpine landscapes.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
It’s difficult to stalk in the open alpine grasslands, but we did our best using rocks and ridges, belly crawling over the tops and then scanning with binoculars. A couple times, the wolves spotted us and kept their distance, but finally we found a pair resting beside a clump of Everlastings. We could see another couple wolves in the distance, also resting. The wait began, our local guide was convinced that we’d see the greeting ceremony, but with the cold wind, and darkness quickly approaching we abandoned our post. As a Cape Eagle Owl flew from a rocky ridge, we watched as it silently and deliberately flew across the valley, discussing the patience and frustrations that wildlife photographers and film-makers go through getting the amazing BBC or National Geographic quality footage.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
The next morning, while it was still very dark and cold, we scrambled out of our tents, and headed to where we’d left the pack. It was cold and we walked in silence. There was a light wind and fog that would make it difficult to spot them and we hoped that we wouldn’t spook them. As we came up over a ridge, our guide suddenly hurried us back. Lying right where we had been lying the evening before was the pair of wolves. Their orange and grey colors blending so perfectly with the lichen covered rocks. Quietly we took cover, set up tripods and zoom lenses and waited. 5 minutes, 10 minutes, 15 minutes, finally another wolf came up over the ridge. Another 5 minutes, 10 minutes, and then one stood up, walked over to another one, and the greeting began. Shaking with excitement, we were glad to have a tripod holding the camera. We let the video roll.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
Ethan Kinseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16334652612139075633noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5867262107481263208.post-27953601331913109142020-03-26T14:12:00.000+03:002020-03-26T14:12:12.644+03:00A Journey Through Ethiopia: Part 3 Inhospitable Habitats<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U2bGdxnhgrw/XnxvxInfMWI/AAAAAAAAB5k/ij3FYzmEZ7oKbTm2YSa0LHBqAA5R-k7tgCEwYBhgLKs0DAMBZVoBn0oU1Iwajs6oFBRvB_xbfpjWDTR_uszcFdnViuepVVx1ZPKIRPW2cYLzxyCFAaQZHPsokvxfB5EW74x0SqJ_pI8k7A6rU6EeqQJtGWiUVt7JYom5nTdy1FO3Fx9iD10C8OWdNU_bXNB-twUubEk-roklfADmyTZFN3DGbXu6S8OrIBIPGfOsNJIuNAWXja2YKYdsAguZNUSd2sDQbTI22wjtrkbIcmFvT1E39WxiLqzdSDgPa62v0EZ_EWGi_8jd1VRv9FUAOJs40T0oYV9wuyiHtlzzQE23jupFHl-JBaaAskO46-JJMb95hzZTjKgKXzIhmVw6Q5lCGTgcw7f-amm-akomBLei_1YUEzSmxu01jzIf74wgArrTLt-8BGF3Gd1f7R_QhD4-NFWcOAU7Qwh8R45RVM2cVCQacjKt5SaD3K8Po7qU2Kv8Xn97YAjJTecU6ZCbfv_m-sthUdcZCM_RPQ3COg1JTWV-Yji7LUgLm4CwMyQ7AW9I5hUKujqQeCkGQLsZDYgNp8vH5L3JBTCqQB4kEAq0o8Zbe5x_8jU-VycYsiTVFQRtwdIaQHLBeXhkekP5cwH2-5dyoQNghx9RGFjJWe_QwyOXx8wU/s1600/IMG_6641.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1199" data-original-width="1600" height="475" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U2bGdxnhgrw/XnxvxInfMWI/AAAAAAAAB5k/ij3FYzmEZ7oKbTm2YSa0LHBqAA5R-k7tgCEwYBhgLKs0DAMBZVoBn0oU1Iwajs6oFBRvB_xbfpjWDTR_uszcFdnViuepVVx1ZPKIRPW2cYLzxyCFAaQZHPsokvxfB5EW74x0SqJ_pI8k7A6rU6EeqQJtGWiUVt7JYom5nTdy1FO3Fx9iD10C8OWdNU_bXNB-twUubEk-roklfADmyTZFN3DGbXu6S8OrIBIPGfOsNJIuNAWXja2YKYdsAguZNUSd2sDQbTI22wjtrkbIcmFvT1E39WxiLqzdSDgPa62v0EZ_EWGi_8jd1VRv9FUAOJs40T0oYV9wuyiHtlzzQE23jupFHl-JBaaAskO46-JJMb95hzZTjKgKXzIhmVw6Q5lCGTgcw7f-amm-akomBLei_1YUEzSmxu01jzIf74wgArrTLt-8BGF3Gd1f7R_QhD4-NFWcOAU7Qwh8R45RVM2cVCQacjKt5SaD3K8Po7qU2Kv8Xn97YAjJTecU6ZCbfv_m-sthUdcZCM_RPQ3COg1JTWV-Yji7LUgLm4CwMyQ7AW9I5hUKujqQeCkGQLsZDYgNp8vH5L3JBTCqQB4kEAq0o8Zbe5x_8jU-VycYsiTVFQRtwdIaQHLBeXhkekP5cwH2-5dyoQNghx9RGFjJWe_QwyOXx8wU/s640/IMG_6641.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An aerial view of Erta Ale.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
Having climbed Nyiragongo in DRC, the opportunity to see another lava lake beckoned us into the harsh Afar region to climb another active volcano, Erta Ale, and to visit the inhospitable Dalol. This environment competes with Death Valley for hottest place on Earth and is at it’s deepest point 120m below the sea level. It is found at what geologists<o:p></o:p></div>
term a triple junction, where 3 continental plates are pulling apart. When this happens, like in the depths of the ocean, chemicals and molten rock rush to the surface.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lPaFQKB_01w/Xnxv2cJn9ZI/AAAAAAAAB5U/pPYLRHidBjg7s5yVBlTWkjdS9ZyFKrX6wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_6462.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lPaFQKB_01w/Xnxv2cJn9ZI/AAAAAAAAB5U/pPYLRHidBjg7s5yVBlTWkjdS9ZyFKrX6wCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_6462.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As we descended from the plateau into the valley, the vegetation changed.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
Our first destination was Erta Ale. Dropping from the high-plateau in the Tigray, the temperatures slowly rose. Wheat-fields transitioned to scrub, cows and donkeys to goats and camels, and smiling farmers to suspicious rusty AK47 wielding camel keepers. Eventually we found ourselves crawling along in low range over a volcanic lava flow, a whisp of smoke rising from a distant hump. A few paths crisscrossed the sharp, jagged, black rocks and for were it for the occasional camel, or dry country lark the area seemed almost sterile. With this heat, we were relieved that we would be climbing in the dark. We arrived at the base camp, an unimpressive collection of grass and rock shelters, in time for a quick nap and light supper. Our guide negotiated with a camel owner to carry mattresses and water as other vehicles pulled up. Wanting to avoid walking in a crowd we left soon after dark, headlamps illuminating the rocky path as we slowly made our way towards the growing glow. That night we crossed the freshly hardened lava from an eruption last year to the edge of the smoking cauldron. The occasional wind change would engulf us in suffocating smoke, searing our eyes and lungs and sending us into coughing fits as we perched precariously on the edge, hoping for relief from the wind and a glimpse of the bubbling lava. As dawn approached we realized we would not see the actual lava, and began our descent racing the building heat. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Qs59Eoi4ldY/XnxvuBr--KI/AAAAAAAAB5Y/PAdjGvsHGRgg7sqlYyxpkqDB0Cq4gLG6gCEwYBhgLKs0DAMBZVoAXSNPHh1dM8M-Jgt2OnRQt1ZtbUBVN39u9rnvHEjqkDla7PlU4LMy2V3lo8vQdM_RAgk4kkpyNXBvKJ0OgSVxJLKe9q508UFtNghPAp9nKIRhTRKzGnZreDveNVDtz-vEWL7UwZ7apr-rnH_lB1y28kAvSJA6e4dQ_qf9-PAF39kNDGHzT7G5KyASTvhQj22xwGP-DeGs2JOvPtV24p6kJFkFTrJECpGL8BzW9TQCYBLEgvOYGf1ouyY5LFU0sHg62oFsMTimgHgkhvXacjhaWEeiXt4mfKGTHbt1PSTwLkdPb40O1aUoutO1XRtqACcli1IEh2j81bicm0kqhwn-hQLxRtiyzYaFsB0QLXbE3WgObG9DRtvJzG-2NGU0heZ8aTplkzKh2i9Ox-nKbdk_c6DXI88gGJJTq9YW0p0AFb8SWoYplB8lmE-JvFIe3g4ewVQ0zy1L8cN3k-halNbQl4Yl8Ro1cwMTKBawDEnuOQUplPkdrArM7WkvRYWU1bRaQLSDVIIjdKwUmh1NazjfmfQZiRJHM632CoAkRLuJwI1dFcpnMlgzJN9lpy_ekXrLihLzTReNoV3yM9xrczNb73ZYxMBvKyXkwhuXx8wU/s1600/IMG_7269.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1065" data-original-width="1600" height="425" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Qs59Eoi4ldY/XnxvuBr--KI/AAAAAAAAB5Y/PAdjGvsHGRgg7sqlYyxpkqDB0Cq4gLG6gCEwYBhgLKs0DAMBZVoAXSNPHh1dM8M-Jgt2OnRQt1ZtbUBVN39u9rnvHEjqkDla7PlU4LMy2V3lo8vQdM_RAgk4kkpyNXBvKJ0OgSVxJLKe9q508UFtNghPAp9nKIRhTRKzGnZreDveNVDtz-vEWL7UwZ7apr-rnH_lB1y28kAvSJA6e4dQ_qf9-PAF39kNDGHzT7G5KyASTvhQj22xwGP-DeGs2JOvPtV24p6kJFkFTrJECpGL8BzW9TQCYBLEgvOYGf1ouyY5LFU0sHg62oFsMTimgHgkhvXacjhaWEeiXt4mfKGTHbt1PSTwLkdPb40O1aUoutO1XRtqACcli1IEh2j81bicm0kqhwn-hQLxRtiyzYaFsB0QLXbE3WgObG9DRtvJzG-2NGU0heZ8aTplkzKh2i9Ox-nKbdk_c6DXI88gGJJTq9YW0p0AFb8SWoYplB8lmE-JvFIe3g4ewVQ0zy1L8cN3k-halNbQl4Yl8Ro1cwMTKBawDEnuOQUplPkdrArM7WkvRYWU1bRaQLSDVIIjdKwUmh1NazjfmfQZiRJHM632CoAkRLuJwI1dFcpnMlgzJN9lpy_ekXrLihLzTReNoV3yM9xrczNb73ZYxMBvKyXkwhuXx8wU/s640/IMG_7269.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Standing on top of an old cone in the glow of the lava against a starry sky.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-size: 12pt;">The race to avoid heat was going to prove to be futile. We climbed back into the vehicle and made the long way back up into the mountains and then back down along a beautiful winding road before emerging in a Mars like landscape of the northern Danakil depression. We crossed a stream and decided the camp vehicle should negotiate with the nearby village for a campsite while we continued. We stopped in a small village called Hamadilla, where an armed policeman joined us. A kilometer further and the tarmac ended abruptly and before us lay the great salt lake of Karum. We picked up a couple cold beers and drove out onto the lakebed to catch the stunning sunset.</span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GVCekVwlJt0/XnyAxrc-6uI/AAAAAAAAB8A/DpBPCT4ijvYlyQcTL2-zpQK7Ffblon6agCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_6476.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="814" data-original-width="1600" height="323" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GVCekVwlJt0/XnyAxrc-6uI/AAAAAAAAB8A/DpBPCT4ijvYlyQcTL2-zpQK7Ffblon6agCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_6476.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The salt lake at sunset.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
The next morning we were up at 5. The temperature had dropped to a reasonable warmth and we set off to catch sunrise at Dallol. Dallol, often mistaken for a volcano, is actually an upwelling of hot water and steam caused by a magma reservoir a couple kilometers below the surface. Rising through 1,000m of layer and layer of salt, the hot solutions mixed with primordial gases from deep within the Earth react pushing up this unassuming 60m high mountain, spewing and bubbling with so many chemical names that any scientific paper on the area looks like a random assortment of element and number combinations interspersed with random English words. Talk about wishing you’d paid a little more attention in chemistry class.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<o:p> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nlNfXWoBp5M/XnxvxQCslEI/AAAAAAAAB5c/TZ62menoBi834I50McnZdGtndMHG8s7mACEwYBhgLKs0DAMBZVoDqSq2yR3LFvP5KIp41gW2vS8bqLSnQfxpKngO8jtkYNaw_k6bfDQnVXEDypadXfo6C1baPuulgy8tEmhqNWvIljFt2L3Zi8e1J-k-0R9Xpeei15kjVmvLXKI-xTIRRERzNvvQ9KZTbWWGRnScK85mcUxB6DFTo7SJCNonrO8qBXZIFtjwi5O-GrFYk1lENFLJ-Qsm8JQUGrmE-xOn3vJFX-cTQUVUPh_NmT3EUEtP-0cK8fnMI5C3Vi17zdKbuH2UtNSTMkCr5iO0SEbyvnmK6zzPvLU0XoDm5aSgtch2zPauwh_2I2ihGSkGVguAPBq1mgtgQvIr80_dYJuy8wv14bgvlTTDqQu7Ze1XeoFrVJA8mvtlZsjskHu7td8YBH-expAebJc6BPnJSPE1Y2jIOTTTctg75FZFF139xhphKK9063FmCvu9rgL9cxPUpPx2_JFn1JAkM6Ufz7n1gcpkIgtl3BxjacezGgKsEtnTg5kOBhP_5D1Hll5O-PJh_6QuA2mNfzabxeyNDR65KBHJwaEbyMLjm5IA8WnsESAPlrbZnuDRS3goEU9hdRgKmtXKdyhPuum7XhnwUYLXt_hIqrNrOxfTHFgwwpeXx8wU/s1600/IMG_6663.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nlNfXWoBp5M/XnxvxQCslEI/AAAAAAAAB5c/TZ62menoBi834I50McnZdGtndMHG8s7mACEwYBhgLKs0DAMBZVoDqSq2yR3LFvP5KIp41gW2vS8bqLSnQfxpKngO8jtkYNaw_k6bfDQnVXEDypadXfo6C1baPuulgy8tEmhqNWvIljFt2L3Zi8e1J-k-0R9Xpeei15kjVmvLXKI-xTIRRERzNvvQ9KZTbWWGRnScK85mcUxB6DFTo7SJCNonrO8qBXZIFtjwi5O-GrFYk1lENFLJ-Qsm8JQUGrmE-xOn3vJFX-cTQUVUPh_NmT3EUEtP-0cK8fnMI5C3Vi17zdKbuH2UtNSTMkCr5iO0SEbyvnmK6zzPvLU0XoDm5aSgtch2zPauwh_2I2ihGSkGVguAPBq1mgtgQvIr80_dYJuy8wv14bgvlTTDqQu7Ze1XeoFrVJA8mvtlZsjskHu7td8YBH-expAebJc6BPnJSPE1Y2jIOTTTctg75FZFF139xhphKK9063FmCvu9rgL9cxPUpPx2_JFn1JAkM6Ufz7n1gcpkIgtl3BxjacezGgKsEtnTg5kOBhP_5D1Hll5O-PJh_6QuA2mNfzabxeyNDR65KBHJwaEbyMLjm5IA8WnsESAPlrbZnuDRS3goEU9hdRgKmtXKdyhPuum7XhnwUYLXt_hIqrNrOxfTHFgwwpeXx8wU/s640/IMG_6663.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The incredible variety in chemical deposits, Dalol.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
We stepped carefully between the salt pillars, navigated circular manifestations and acid pools, some with pH’s approaching 0.5. Kneeling down and looking for unique camera angles, the local guide would occasionally remind us, “that is really poisonous” or “don’t let that get in your eyes”. Our next stop was a series of a couple of ponds, where our guide explained that methane mixes with the water and makes it feel oily. Dead migratory birds lay on the edge where they had drunk the poisonous water. As the heat was building, we stepped back into the air-conditioned vehicle and sped across the salt flats. It was time to get back to the cool Ethiopian highlands.<o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EqYemuKmU7U/XnxvyG-6W5I/AAAAAAAAB5g/V3u2gyNTe1cPhERfJLx4KDTBxsbLTSzsgCEwYBhgLKs0DAMBZVoDqSq2yR3LFvP5KIp41gW2vS8bqLSnQfxpKngO8jtkYNaw_k6bfDQnVXEDypadXfo6C1baPuulgy8tEmhqNWvIljFt2L3Zi8e1J-k-0R9Xpeei15kjVmvLXKI-xTIRRERzNvvQ9KZTbWWGRnScK85mcUxB6DFTo7SJCNonrO8qBXZIFtjwi5O-GrFYk1lENFLJ-Qsm8JQUGrmE-xOn3vJFX-cTQUVUPh_NmT3EUEtP-0cK8fnMI5C3Vi17zdKbuH2UtNSTMkCr5iO0SEbyvnmK6zzPvLU0XoDm5aSgtch2zPauwh_2I2ihGSkGVguAPBq1mgtgQvIr80_dYJuy8wv14bgvlTTDqQu7Ze1XeoFrVJA8mvtlZsjskHu7td8YBH-expAebJc6BPnJSPE1Y2jIOTTTctg75FZFF139xhphKK9063FmCvu9rgL9cxPUpPx2_JFn1JAkM6Ufz7n1gcpkIgtl3BxjacezGgKsEtnTg5kOBhP_5D1Hll5O-PJh_6QuA2mNfzabxeyNDR65KBHJwaEbyMLjm5IA8WnsESAPlrbZnuDRS3goEU9hdRgKmtXKdyhPuum7XhnwUYLXt_hIqrNrOxfTHFgwwpeXx8wU/s1600/IMG_6596.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1199" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EqYemuKmU7U/XnxvyG-6W5I/AAAAAAAAB5g/V3u2gyNTe1cPhERfJLx4KDTBxsbLTSzsgCEwYBhgLKs0DAMBZVoDqSq2yR3LFvP5KIp41gW2vS8bqLSnQfxpKngO8jtkYNaw_k6bfDQnVXEDypadXfo6C1baPuulgy8tEmhqNWvIljFt2L3Zi8e1J-k-0R9Xpeei15kjVmvLXKI-xTIRRERzNvvQ9KZTbWWGRnScK85mcUxB6DFTo7SJCNonrO8qBXZIFtjwi5O-GrFYk1lENFLJ-Qsm8JQUGrmE-xOn3vJFX-cTQUVUPh_NmT3EUEtP-0cK8fnMI5C3Vi17zdKbuH2UtNSTMkCr5iO0SEbyvnmK6zzPvLU0XoDm5aSgtch2zPauwh_2I2ihGSkGVguAPBq1mgtgQvIr80_dYJuy8wv14bgvlTTDqQu7Ze1XeoFrVJA8mvtlZsjskHu7td8YBH-expAebJc6BPnJSPE1Y2jIOTTTctg75FZFF139xhphKK9063FmCvu9rgL9cxPUpPx2_JFn1JAkM6Ufz7n1gcpkIgtl3BxjacezGgKsEtnTg5kOBhP_5D1Hll5O-PJh_6QuA2mNfzabxeyNDR65KBHJwaEbyMLjm5IA8WnsESAPlrbZnuDRS3goEU9hdRgKmtXKdyhPuum7XhnwUYLXt_hIqrNrOxfTHFgwwpeXx8wU/s640/IMG_6596.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A poisonous pond, Dalol. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
Ethan Kinseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16334652612139075633noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5867262107481263208.post-4176785705493617312020-03-26T14:11:00.000+03:002020-03-26T14:11:48.683+03:00A Journey Through Ethiopia: Part 2 Community Treks & Abuna Yemata<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BgooBklLwUw/Xnxtgk9eaMI/AAAAAAAAB4Y/nnfKmRsqxdYJXjb-2vmDzr3D412rCZ6vQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_6380.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="838" data-original-width="1600" height="332" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BgooBklLwUw/Xnxtgk9eaMI/AAAAAAAAB4Y/nnfKmRsqxdYJXjb-2vmDzr3D412rCZ6vQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_6380.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
With limited time, we pushed on. Cruising the winding new tar roads, delaying our arrival with yet more stops for “just one quick picture”. Abruptly we turned off the main road and onto a rural dirt track. A jovial lady walked up to the vehicle and climbed in.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
“My name is Berhan, I’m going to be your guide for the next few days, are you ready to walk in the dark?”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
20 minutes later, as the sun began to drop in the sky sending incredible rays through the clouds, we began our trek. Like stepping into biblical times, our bags were loaded on a donkey and we made our way through golden wheat fields and through a valley. The sun set and we walked on passing farmhouses, a short cut between two fields. As the twilight began to fade, Berhan turned to us:<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
“We’re almost there, we just have to climb to the top of this plateau.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
The long drive and slight apprehension at walking somewhere you’d never been in the dark made the climb seem a little harder than it was, but as we came up over the lip of the plateau, sillouetted against the last light of sunset was Erar, a community guest house perched on a cliff.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sDibcxBofrQ/Xnxt6hGyJ1I/AAAAAAAAB44/v4hGsxcMhSAJZ-uJZGg-h04GhIcPoToSgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_7630.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="838" data-original-width="1600" height="332" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sDibcxBofrQ/Xnxt6hGyJ1I/AAAAAAAAB44/v4hGsxcMhSAJZ-uJZGg-h04GhIcPoToSgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_7630.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
As we arrived, clouds rolled in and an unusual drizzle threatened. Stumbling around with headlamps we found our rooms, grabbed warm clothes and then headed to the dining room. Dinner was being prepared and we sat in the dark, a small lantern lighting up the room. A couple beers and a bottle of wine were brought out from somewhere and we sat tired but content. Berhan explained to us that there is a series of community guest houses that are a day’s hike between. There are no roads so all supplies are brought in by donkey or carried. Cooks and helpers worked on a rotation so that many people would benefit from the tourists who come through. It felt good to be there.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
The next morning we were up as dawn broke, cameras and tripods set up to capture more video footage, then we went in for our first real Ethiopian coffee ceremony. Coffee is served differently in different regions of Ethiopia, some make an infusion of coffee berry husks, others use the leaves. We would experience the Tigrayan ceremony. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
As we sat there, eager for our morning coffee, the host brought out some hot coals in a clay stove. She took a handful of green coffee and put it in a special coffee roasting pan, shaking the pan to keep the beans moving and roasting evenly. Soon the smoke and aroma of roasting coffee filled the room, ever stimulating the eagerness for a cup. The coffee was poured into a mortar and pestle and she ground it, occasionally testing its consistency. Soon it is ground enough and she poured the grounds into the clay coffee pot and added water, placing it back on the coals. Within a few minutes coffee spluttered from the spout of the pot and she added a little cold water, repeating this until finally she could pour us our first cup of coffee. Tradition has it that the process was not over, and the pot was refilled with water. Every coffee ceremony must produce three rounds of coffee. Adding to the ceremony, our host quickly grabbed a pan, poured some popcorn kernels into it and held it over the coals to produce the most complete batch of popcorn I’d ever seen.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-S1dt42T895U/XnyCwUlZ_SI/AAAAAAAAB8c/8xA0_PuBdgAp8LqegfWugnX79loc1tGlwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_6289.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-S1dt42T895U/XnyCwUlZ_SI/AAAAAAAAB8c/8xA0_PuBdgAp8LqegfWugnX79loc1tGlwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_6289.HEIC" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Popcorn and a great smile!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
Soon we were back on the trail, weaving again through the fields. Farmers chased geladas from the grain fields and dogs barked at as we passed homesteads. The walk took us along the edges of cliffs, down into valleys, past ancient churches and I couldn’t help but think that people are living in very much the way that people in the area have for the last two thousand years. The walk was just the right length and we arrived at the next guest house, Shimbrity, ready for some authentic Ethiopian injera and shiro. That afternoon, we took a walk along the edges of the cliffs soaking in the spectacular views. <o:p></o:p></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dULgJki1vZc/XnyC1IQ4azI/AAAAAAAAB8g/2ebX6BY2uboSlOF-17ICts3IOUkPFcLyQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_6361.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dULgJki1vZc/XnyC1IQ4azI/AAAAAAAAB8g/2ebX6BY2uboSlOF-17ICts3IOUkPFcLyQCLcBGAsYHQ/s400/IMG_6361.HEIC" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A shepherd herding his sheep. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
During our travel planning stage, we came across this <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r1QXpmv-y2E">short video</a>, and decided our journey through Ethiopia would not be complete if we did not attempt to visit this church. Having not met one other tourist while on the community trek, we were a little apprehensive as we approached the base of the mountain. Long lines of people were snaking their way up, but our guide quickly explained that the next day was the day of the saint for this church and people had made a pilgrimage. A mass would be conducted in the church for the whole night. We began the hike making way for kids running up in flipflops, the elderly climbing to a sacred Olive tree a third of the way up. Soon after we were asked to remove our shoes, and the rock climbing began. My palms became sweaty and the urge to curl my toes as I faced the rock face. Everyone was helping everyone so we began the climb.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-76nT9EN6GwM/XnxtiRyF66I/AAAAAAAAB40/chA1Nxgi_k4MwnoO381A6FvVmtghH8pvACEwYBhgLKs0DAMBZVoAzlQHBs-IFB_iW-0BeGdibIK6jp6HScrmt71GBw2YISGxjKfVy-cXBb2xaQkXw9myBsEmLhUzjligyw-w6nOavnJWc4ya17tAAHNYfezC0-H6IjYftpIVTqBXMlwDt4kOHILOWjielIfm6glTodNJC-s_f1IGDHp5_0qUv5e5cTUbJaNcbDY7o5ALgtBu197mrZH6IcH60jht7HhQw679cIrhXisuRQMXTZrLFwqFYV6z6l8kwUgsqhWA83sDzYpivW-silD9WDGwNZ1SZwzhC8Tqbq711jgRm4Q69BRwEkZpoDOH3y65DHsdi5uuzBfInHO6cw2Kq_M6E1zxIKCXSLFI4fzzN2rmDvBMwGh_IkerfxoyKEZuumAScq1Q5OrrXcFSoeEkmBSdsSh95VtnPojT8NSEXvwTp7twUy3W653rFEHtHLsJblzrWSVFRXrNQqPRb6BVPIlXxZQ1Vq0M3m3PMQg5Vv44IIPpYzJPkMlwprH3pddiblcGISL5u-h5tpE8SMG_Zg7wPpr0avE9BiRgCAXyVevnLEZ3yCX2kacKIOV0EmEEywvnbGrGXS6KEnCktRUF2i7bLqJsI2IAdSCW1EjD7IPMwr-Lx8wU/s1600/IMG_6423.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1280" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-76nT9EN6GwM/XnxtiRyF66I/AAAAAAAAB40/chA1Nxgi_k4MwnoO381A6FvVmtghH8pvACEwYBhgLKs0DAMBZVoAzlQHBs-IFB_iW-0BeGdibIK6jp6HScrmt71GBw2YISGxjKfVy-cXBb2xaQkXw9myBsEmLhUzjligyw-w6nOavnJWc4ya17tAAHNYfezC0-H6IjYftpIVTqBXMlwDt4kOHILOWjielIfm6glTodNJC-s_f1IGDHp5_0qUv5e5cTUbJaNcbDY7o5ALgtBu197mrZH6IcH60jht7HhQw679cIrhXisuRQMXTZrLFwqFYV6z6l8kwUgsqhWA83sDzYpivW-silD9WDGwNZ1SZwzhC8Tqbq711jgRm4Q69BRwEkZpoDOH3y65DHsdi5uuzBfInHO6cw2Kq_M6E1zxIKCXSLFI4fzzN2rmDvBMwGh_IkerfxoyKEZuumAScq1Q5OrrXcFSoeEkmBSdsSh95VtnPojT8NSEXvwTp7twUy3W653rFEHtHLsJblzrWSVFRXrNQqPRb6BVPIlXxZQ1Vq0M3m3PMQg5Vv44IIPpYzJPkMlwprH3pddiblcGISL5u-h5tpE8SMG_Zg7wPpr0avE9BiRgCAXyVevnLEZ3yCX2kacKIOV0EmEEywvnbGrGXS6KEnCktRUF2i7bLqJsI2IAdSCW1EjD7IPMwr-Lx8wU/s640/IMG_6423.JPG" width="512" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An elderly lady makes the pilgrimage.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
“Put your left hand here, put your right foot there now, o.k., now reach here”. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
The hundreds of years of people climbing this perilous rock face had left hand and foot holds in all the right places, like an easy route on a rock-gym wall. Soon we were climbing on a path again. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
“Are you afraid of heights?” quipped the guide? “A bit late now”, we chuckled as we came up to the penultimate ledge. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
The view was spectacular, but with the drop off, I kept well clear. Our timing was perfect and the sun had gone behind some clouds giving us an incredible sky as a backdrop to this breathtaking view.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
“O.k. careful now”, said our guide and we began the terrifying last section. A loose log leaned against the rock was the handhold as we scrambled across the natural rock bridge and up the last bit to a 2 foot wide path that led around to the entrance. The priest watched us from a window.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8m4vpHPDodM/XnyEz1zhCwI/AAAAAAAAB80/IGxGY7iwDzM7_IKupjMca-lMJgUh6xh4gCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_6397.HEIC" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8m4vpHPDodM/XnyEz1zhCwI/AAAAAAAAB80/IGxGY7iwDzM7_IKupjMca-lMJgUh6xh4gCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_6397.HEIC" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
The inside was dark, but our guide quickly lit some wax wiks and the elaborate paintings were revealed. These churches, hidden from view, carved out of the ancient sandstone rock high-up in these mountains were made somewhere during the 5<sup>th</sup> century. Hidden from marauding militias and crusades, these monolithic churches could not be burned down.<o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Xyhs-cOQQdM/XnyEH0Nd70I/AAAAAAAAB8s/v6QqtAI76JIf24soX9SVPWfUh7Ry46hCQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_6400.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="847" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Xyhs-cOQQdM/XnyEH0Nd70I/AAAAAAAAB8s/v6QqtAI76JIf24soX9SVPWfUh7Ry46hCQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_6400.JPG" width="337" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The last push.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Ethan Kinseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16334652612139075633noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5867262107481263208.post-32324737636354372252020-03-26T14:07:00.001+03:002020-03-26T14:07:56.163+03:00A Journey Through Ethiopia: Part 1 Lalibela & The Simien Mountains<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qgYmjekNroY/XnxrPiJJe6I/AAAAAAAAB3I/j21PIz1DV78XCD_YdpfXhSu07ZZCOLqiQCEwYBhgLKs0DAMBZVoAzhnLTKlzlOwDUHMAjcINVDnwdHYwuu_oMp5UrRCh7ahcCMciSH_eCbbdzQq0WLkO7voawJlevuRQV6o5Qaaw2_qYYaUJ4ep1T4SowwFaA4MU2ZsFCpIGV4Xr-TsbUegL5EQb6vBhZgDEywflQlg4otcYZqbeKS4o3cZX8NTz33rOdRbYkp5EpByFUC9re53f3aN5se5XclA7PtYxmmsLFWQr80G-7l37lH1UeYlIxlW2m5ACKdhLyAwof13UKFFiLS7laOGKdPEk9zXWr0oArbBzjpLpGKvS7jV5sVGtwfqxKiO10fDyGuSyXMPEHspbinWCkqc7u9vOhahE52Hl-ylL7VU61rb3NEU5lqmooQkt6_tygGU9jxd7Pd4M_IUBWiF_WfvSCGjoROPeq-JscerxrI93cmIYLMVxqSOVsztA6xip3n4RkIMCxdbToR3UOROQVIDUOhhSHgSLld3MHQA0emyHBY3vc9R5PNpaH6OGUTX_88wMWaiVCt6gAUsgUbkdo6Kx0_ceHqHhhLwPVc7Jvg2V91kEMtF29iJ1rmw3J2g_AFWSwISPoOIyfAMWRDPmdurt-Sn7A3g2rxOpTB3mogS36x90w0uDx8wU/s1600/IMG_7643.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="890" data-original-width="1600" height="353" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qgYmjekNroY/XnxrPiJJe6I/AAAAAAAAB3I/j21PIz1DV78XCD_YdpfXhSu07ZZCOLqiQCEwYBhgLKs0DAMBZVoAzhnLTKlzlOwDUHMAjcINVDnwdHYwuu_oMp5UrRCh7ahcCMciSH_eCbbdzQq0WLkO7voawJlevuRQV6o5Qaaw2_qYYaUJ4ep1T4SowwFaA4MU2ZsFCpIGV4Xr-TsbUegL5EQb6vBhZgDEywflQlg4otcYZqbeKS4o3cZX8NTz33rOdRbYkp5EpByFUC9re53f3aN5se5XclA7PtYxmmsLFWQr80G-7l37lH1UeYlIxlW2m5ACKdhLyAwof13UKFFiLS7laOGKdPEk9zXWr0oArbBzjpLpGKvS7jV5sVGtwfqxKiO10fDyGuSyXMPEHspbinWCkqc7u9vOhahE52Hl-ylL7VU61rb3NEU5lqmooQkt6_tygGU9jxd7Pd4M_IUBWiF_WfvSCGjoROPeq-JscerxrI93cmIYLMVxqSOVsztA6xip3n4RkIMCxdbToR3UOROQVIDUOhhSHgSLld3MHQA0emyHBY3vc9R5PNpaH6OGUTX_88wMWaiVCt6gAUsgUbkdo6Kx0_ceHqHhhLwPVc7Jvg2V91kEMtF29iJ1rmw3J2g_AFWSwISPoOIyfAMWRDPmdurt-Sn7A3g2rxOpTB3mogS36x90w0uDx8wU/s640/IMG_7643.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
The journey to Ethiopia began as a discussion at the end of an incredible adventure through Madagascar of “where next”? With an extensive list of experiences accompanied by an impressive biodiversity list from Mountain Gorillas to Madame Berthe’s Mouse lemur, all of the cats of the savannahs, from tracking elephants on foot and flying over Lake Natron in an ultralight, to lying in the mud photographing flamingos, staring into Nyiragongo, and tiptoeing through the Tsingy photographing leaping lemurs, the most obvious big destination was Ethiopia. The rare and endangered Ethiopian wolf, grass eating Geladas, and the Walia ibex, became our target species and the challenge to experience Ethiopia in the same style as Tanzania, D.R.C, and Madagascar.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
I am a very nature-oriented guide and place a lot of value in the wildlife experience and the value of the wilderness experience. A huge part of the adventures I put together is in the seeking, or the hunt as some would say. I emphasize being the first out, the last in at night, taking the road less travelled, going out-of-season to experience places without hordes of tourists. Ethiopia intimidated me a little with its churches, castles, 100 million people, and AK47 wielding tribes and getting beyond the beaten track even though we had four weeks was going to be a challenge.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-B7ZztvFGK0c/XnxrjGpPm4I/AAAAAAAAB3M/r9rhR1dB_i4Mf4ACjT_tatd4Ko18Eon3ACEwYBhgLKs0DAMBZVoD8b4TDMjXrprBqmha2iyHRFuvoeWiYT2HjW4ABkBu_waauHzJ6uH_p4dLaLM0L3zpiN_vITsnOKUlO9DXE6QX4OC4GgRKRPgq9GOZ2zRyWg4BbW0UHtQBSwflJI-AhBnXBcTtfjzqbK0oRy_FrXVi1wo0PSvQPgib8eYcd67_c36WyAKqUP8lr5Y9kH4_F5IaXGjgKGa68tFAjlXXCVnammKFGZUT2Tm32c6FWGR8Dyr5RaGCSBon9o9YuzB0rd0yYFnFC2YAD4ZuWSbNWpFXZFB0Ahjk5SqJKVAoJpW80_fg-XY5RXxRLvv6XY5yIGV1wZIZb8GKmuZ3kC2Aqy3Scqetsj5oc0Xs2d0C4FhxSCPIJ44-b19Qu0kma7kHVKYU0CxwnCUcCo50LN-azl3ronzw11zW4fBW_I_i5t6eeWVHGbw8VeMc-rHtMG0JYoRXa2Qp7ivQV2pssFGw8Yit_yvjQ4VZatmVQ-Ju6jBOi5g13pDbQR44XBzKaX7KYLtCqTp0FF9GBHFKqmpZn_e4c_3bqnt-k-gt31NzGTTPlXePt3Ycfc4xbPHf0r3_dudoPRjD8o0zWWmGvu3Q_8s2_8Q46qbX49scwpNzx8wU/s1600/IMG_6111.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1025" data-original-width="1600" height="408" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-B7ZztvFGK0c/XnxrjGpPm4I/AAAAAAAAB3M/r9rhR1dB_i4Mf4ACjT_tatd4Ko18Eon3ACEwYBhgLKs0DAMBZVoD8b4TDMjXrprBqmha2iyHRFuvoeWiYT2HjW4ABkBu_waauHzJ6uH_p4dLaLM0L3zpiN_vITsnOKUlO9DXE6QX4OC4GgRKRPgq9GOZ2zRyWg4BbW0UHtQBSwflJI-AhBnXBcTtfjzqbK0oRy_FrXVi1wo0PSvQPgib8eYcd67_c36WyAKqUP8lr5Y9kH4_F5IaXGjgKGa68tFAjlXXCVnammKFGZUT2Tm32c6FWGR8Dyr5RaGCSBon9o9YuzB0rd0yYFnFC2YAD4ZuWSbNWpFXZFB0Ahjk5SqJKVAoJpW80_fg-XY5RXxRLvv6XY5yIGV1wZIZb8GKmuZ3kC2Aqy3Scqetsj5oc0Xs2d0C4FhxSCPIJ44-b19Qu0kma7kHVKYU0CxwnCUcCo50LN-azl3ronzw11zW4fBW_I_i5t6eeWVHGbw8VeMc-rHtMG0JYoRXa2Qp7ivQV2pssFGw8Yit_yvjQ4VZatmVQ-Ju6jBOi5g13pDbQR44XBzKaX7KYLtCqTp0FF9GBHFKqmpZn_e4c_3bqnt-k-gt31NzGTTPlXePt3Ycfc4xbPHf0r3_dudoPRjD8o0zWWmGvu3Q_8s2_8Q46qbX49scwpNzx8wU/s640/IMG_6111.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bet Giorgis, one of the impressive rock hewn churches of Lalibela.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
Our journey began with a flight to Lalibela, the famous rock-hewn churches where we opted for a whirlwind tour. Our whirlwind tour continued, on to Gondar where we explored the castles of this medieval Kingdom before stopping at our first wildlife destination, the Simien Mountains.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RY5FsdWEzcs/XnxrnFcadUI/AAAAAAAAB3g/VVw96wDkDv0oEgtyKgat53tarAMb344iQCEwYBhgLKs0DAMBZVoAdjEcHUVK33vGf_Ys3CbYT_vS7KHNe_wkuQS8Wl1yADo5U3ol1iwzTdW8aXItY4BBwOZKxJkAkLMggsWFOAT80BITSb669ElcTY6mlBAXp7Hpd7jVnFgFYiKYxIEkrGNxc-n6y6Va-q68nJzc5kaWNO6M3sVlhLifKA_UTqfOA3aXUTtBhe42VOrHfrg9MEzjBxyHkyZFDWRIPA5CGHeFFjtT6VKkSLAp_Ezk_Kw8IpP3DHLgRpRsv6XjSm0qW8iLiOXPhyaADn8-Ap8U49KcwLz7r8UJoOlgRm0NNr8xOeZNDo3BxxOHfWCxMg-_-A1yULNZqB9X9MRbcVHODWlHAt94yAA7IDz6am_7Z_fOqqX2Yyf-ye-6PWyAhC4aO_aSVHFWYfiapoOkR_1YNR6bUPs7DWcHPJFUuSVdiXe2Wkp0I3roghTWPh7fjdOFR5kaT_4iDkIg2c72D_d5vEyi3vFjdconhg88Y7wCctzdqhaqMFyZPoZghgNrYG8e6etBlBA9hij5NRc5lvQ9ql4GR3BMWg-UA1Cm0hFRNWtOvrP9xq3vjYNYqcLRuzrvvoA95fSc5-YGrFh4uxAlpGW9yZN-cYMDv2BAwgN3x8wU/s1600/IMG_6229.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RY5FsdWEzcs/XnxrnFcadUI/AAAAAAAAB3g/VVw96wDkDv0oEgtyKgat53tarAMb344iQCEwYBhgLKs0DAMBZVoAdjEcHUVK33vGf_Ys3CbYT_vS7KHNe_wkuQS8Wl1yADo5U3ol1iwzTdW8aXItY4BBwOZKxJkAkLMggsWFOAT80BITSb669ElcTY6mlBAXp7Hpd7jVnFgFYiKYxIEkrGNxc-n6y6Va-q68nJzc5kaWNO6M3sVlhLifKA_UTqfOA3aXUTtBhe42VOrHfrg9MEzjBxyHkyZFDWRIPA5CGHeFFjtT6VKkSLAp_Ezk_Kw8IpP3DHLgRpRsv6XjSm0qW8iLiOXPhyaADn8-Ap8U49KcwLz7r8UJoOlgRm0NNr8xOeZNDo3BxxOHfWCxMg-_-A1yULNZqB9X9MRbcVHODWlHAt94yAA7IDz6am_7Z_fOqqX2Yyf-ye-6PWyAhC4aO_aSVHFWYfiapoOkR_1YNR6bUPs7DWcHPJFUuSVdiXe2Wkp0I3roghTWPh7fjdOFR5kaT_4iDkIg2c72D_d5vEyi3vFjdconhg88Y7wCctzdqhaqMFyZPoZghgNrYG8e6etBlBA9hij5NRc5lvQ9ql4GR3BMWg-UA1Cm0hFRNWtOvrP9xq3vjYNYqcLRuzrvvoA95fSc5-YGrFh4uxAlpGW9yZN-cYMDv2BAwgN3x8wU/s400/IMG_6229.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One the day of the saint, followers flock to the church. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
We sipped coffee as dawn began to break through the clouds, our tripods set up and time-lapses rolling as the sun slowly revealed the spectacular landscape. Grabbing a flask of coffee and packed breakfast we drove into the park. It was difficult to get far because over every ridge and around every corner a new vista would open up and the never ending urge to try to capture the incredible vistas. Our immediate goal was an area of the park known as Chenek, the best location to find the Walia ibex from where we would work our way back.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2bCClFxKjGk/XnxsgSbikLI/AAAAAAAAB3s/ggHMqc5t6boA3N4qoaIJpuYA2o75ulmaQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_6198.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="425" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2bCClFxKjGk/XnxsgSbikLI/AAAAAAAAB3s/ggHMqc5t6boA3N4qoaIJpuYA2o75ulmaQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_6198.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The magnificent male Walia Ibex of the Simien Mountains. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-P1ingi-lXT0/XnxsgL-h9-I/AAAAAAAAB3o/HfaRb9Fm_dYTAj7EGEdNvl_Uab66hgK7wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_6192.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="794" data-original-width="1091" height="464" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-P1ingi-lXT0/XnxsgL-h9-I/AAAAAAAAB3o/HfaRb9Fm_dYTAj7EGEdNvl_Uab66hgK7wCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_6192.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Walia ibex perched on the cliffs.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
We paused for a coffee and snack, binoculars scanning the mountainsides for the glimpse of this iconic species, finally catching sight of the recurved horns silhouetted against the sky at the top of one of the mountains. Grabbing cameras and lenses we began the scramble, soon realizing that at 4,200m (13,700ft) we were going to have to take it slow despite our excitement. Our huffing and puffing was rewarded as we came around a boulder, and right in front of us the most impressive male ibex lay sleeping. We sat quietly in awe, catching our breath and playing with camera settings. Suddenly a movement off to the right and we realized that there were more. In total 8 mature ibex. Not a bad start to Ethiopian wildlife.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
The next target species was the Gelada, a specialized terrestrial, grass eating primate, similar in size to a baboon. We’d already seen some on the drive, but closer to the park entrance was a group that was being researched and thus habituated to humans. We pulled up as the light softened and the Geladas began to make their way back to the cliffs, rapidly feeding on grasses and herbs all the time murmuring.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xLEPTInU1xU/XnyBQ9VXYzI/AAAAAAAAB8I/Emv0ZDOyiNstVYYrdY8rK5wh0znBcN9PwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_6223.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="829" data-original-width="1600" height="330" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xLEPTInU1xU/XnyBQ9VXYzI/AAAAAAAAB8I/Emv0ZDOyiNstVYYrdY8rK5wh0znBcN9PwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_6223.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Geladas getting ready to retreat to the safety of the cliffs for the night. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
The next morning we found ourselves on the same verandah, coffee in hand, tripods set up and time-lapses running. After a quick breakfast we loaded the vehicle and left. A long and tight-winding road built by the colonial Italians took us to the base of the Simien Mountains, across the Tacazze river and north to Axum. We stopped for lunch and then ventured to the Stelle park. The oldest Stelle in the park date to 2 AD, glorified tombstones build by kings, and of course each king had to commission a bigger and better stelle. In the middle of the park lies a broken stelle, one that no one is sure ever stood, and if it did why or how it fell.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IDZwpJsSyaU/XnyBevXpGPI/AAAAAAAAB8M/PvdQFihgVhwqnMkh_itLvIiJHOlpT30GACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_6258.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IDZwpJsSyaU/XnyBevXpGPI/AAAAAAAAB8M/PvdQFihgVhwqnMkh_itLvIiJHOlpT30GACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_6258.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br /></div>
Ethan Kinseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16334652612139075633noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5867262107481263208.post-46318887050081005672017-11-30T11:24:00.003+03:002017-11-30T11:24:32.850+03:00The Gorilla Story Part 1. Some Insight into Mountain Gorillas.
<style>
<!--
/* Font Definitions */
@font-face
{font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-font-charset:78;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:1 134676480 16 0 131072 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-font-charset:78;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:1 134676480 16 0 131072 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:Cambria;
panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536870145 1073743103 0 0 415 0;}
/* Style Definitions */
p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal
{mso-style-unhide:no;
mso-style-qformat:yes;
mso-style-parent:"";
margin:0cm;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;}
.MsoChpDefault
{mso-style-type:export-only;
mso-default-props:yes;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;}
@page WordSection1
{size:612.0pt 792.0pt;
margin:72.0pt 90.0pt 72.0pt 90.0pt;
mso-header-margin:36.0pt;
mso-footer-margin:36.0pt;
mso-paper-source:0;}
div.WordSection1
{page:WordSection1;}
-->
</style>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nRFDFsF6rgs/Wh-xyxT5plI/AAAAAAAABxk/-2wE2NfxtDUccQ3otO7vW7HN2ynnra_RwCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2338.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nRFDFsF6rgs/Wh-xyxT5plI/AAAAAAAABxk/-2wE2NfxtDUccQ3otO7vW7HN2ynnra_RwCLcBGAs/s400/IMG_2338.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kasole of the Munyaga group beats his chest for us! Watch a video <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BbmsPT1nBc3/?taken-by=tembomdogo">here</a>. Who is Kasole? Find out <a href="http://ethan-kinsey.blogspot.com/2017/11/the-gorilla-story-part-ii-brief-history.html">here.</a></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> </td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Having returned from guiding my nineteenth gorilla trek in
fourteen months, I thought I’d share some of the insight that I have gained so
that if you are considering a trip to see mountain gorillas you have more than
the standard info pack you might receive from standard operators. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I personally prefer trekking in Virunga National Park in the
Democratic Republic of Congo. The experience is slightly less regimented,
sometimes disorganized, but is undoubtedly more intimate. The history of the
gorilla groups in this article therefore applies to the groups in DRC, however,
the Mountain gorillas are essentially the same wherever you are in the Virunga Massif. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<style>
<!--
/* Font Definitions */
@font-face
{font-family:"Courier New";
panose-1:2 7 3 9 2 2 5 2 4 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536859905 -1073711037 9 0 511 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:Wingdings;
panose-1:5 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0;
mso-font-charset:2;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:0 268435456 0 0 -2147483648 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-font-charset:78;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:1 134676480 16 0 131072 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:"Cambria Math";
panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536870145 1107305727 0 0 415 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:Cambria;
panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536870145 1073743103 0 0 415 0;}
/* Style Definitions */
p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal
{mso-style-unhide:no;
mso-style-qformat:yes;
mso-style-parent:"";
margin:0cm;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;}
p.MsoListParagraph, li.MsoListParagraph, div.MsoListParagraph
{mso-style-priority:34;
mso-style-unhide:no;
mso-style-qformat:yes;
margin-top:0cm;
margin-right:0cm;
margin-bottom:0cm;
margin-left:36.0pt;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-add-space:auto;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;}
p.MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst, li.MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst, div.MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst
{mso-style-priority:34;
mso-style-unhide:no;
mso-style-qformat:yes;
mso-style-type:export-only;
margin-top:0cm;
margin-right:0cm;
margin-bottom:0cm;
margin-left:36.0pt;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-add-space:auto;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;}
p.MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle, li.MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle, div.MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle
{mso-style-priority:34;
mso-style-unhide:no;
mso-style-qformat:yes;
mso-style-type:export-only;
margin-top:0cm;
margin-right:0cm;
margin-bottom:0cm;
margin-left:36.0pt;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-add-space:auto;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;}
p.MsoListParagraphCxSpLast, li.MsoListParagraphCxSpLast, div.MsoListParagraphCxSpLast
{mso-style-priority:34;
mso-style-unhide:no;
mso-style-qformat:yes;
mso-style-type:export-only;
margin-top:0cm;
margin-right:0cm;
margin-bottom:0cm;
margin-left:36.0pt;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-add-space:auto;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;}
.MsoChpDefault
{mso-style-type:export-only;
mso-default-props:yes;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;}
@page WordSection1
{size:612.0pt 792.0pt;
margin:72.0pt 90.0pt 72.0pt 90.0pt;
mso-header-margin:36.0pt;
mso-footer-margin:36.0pt;
mso-paper-source:0;}
div.WordSection1
{page:WordSection1;}
/* List Definitions */
@list l0
{mso-list-id:288973322;
mso-list-type:hybrid;
mso-list-template-ids:-978052112 67698689 67698691 67698693 67698689 67698691 67698693 67698689 67698691 67698693;}
@list l0:level1
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
margin-left:90.0pt;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:Symbol;}
@list l0:level2
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:o;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
margin-left:126.0pt;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:"Courier New";
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";}
@list l0:level3
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
margin-left:162.0pt;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:Wingdings;}
@list l0:level4
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
margin-left:198.0pt;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:Symbol;}
@list l0:level5
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:o;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
margin-left:234.0pt;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:"Courier New";
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";}
@list l0:level6
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
margin-left:270.0pt;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:Wingdings;}
@list l0:level7
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
margin-left:306.0pt;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:Symbol;}
@list l0:level8
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:o;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
margin-left:342.0pt;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:"Courier New";
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";}
@list l0:level9
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
margin-left:378.0pt;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:Wingdings;}
@list l1
{mso-list-id:450444950;
mso-list-type:hybrid;
mso-list-template-ids:2033773630 67698689 67698691 67698693 67698689 67698691 67698693 67698689 67698691 67698693;}
@list l1:level1
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:Symbol;}
@list l1:level2
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:o;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:"Courier New";
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";}
@list l1:level3
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:Wingdings;}
@list l1:level4
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:Symbol;}
@list l1:level5
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:o;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:"Courier New";
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";}
@list l1:level6
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:Wingdings;}
@list l1:level7
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:Symbol;}
@list l1:level8
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:o;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:"Courier New";
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";}
@list l1:level9
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:Wingdings;}
@list l2
{mso-list-id:971445444;
mso-list-type:hybrid;
mso-list-template-ids:113424140 67698689 67698691 67698693 67698689 67698691 67698693 67698689 67698691 67698693;}
@list l2:level1
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:Symbol;}
@list l2:level2
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:o;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:"Courier New";
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";}
@list l2:level3
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:Wingdings;}
@list l2:level4
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:Symbol;}
@list l2:level5
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:o;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:"Courier New";
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";}
@list l2:level6
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:Wingdings;}
@list l2:level7
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:Symbol;}
@list l2:level8
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:o;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:"Courier New";
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";}
@list l2:level9
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:Wingdings;}
@list l3
{mso-list-id:1289628758;
mso-list-type:hybrid;
mso-list-template-ids:-1641106858 67698689 67698691 67698693 67698689 67698691 67698693 67698689 67698691 67698693;}
@list l3:level1
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
margin-left:108.0pt;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:Symbol;}
@list l3:level2
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:o;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
margin-left:144.0pt;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:"Courier New";
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";}
@list l3:level3
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
margin-left:180.0pt;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:Wingdings;}
@list l3:level4
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
margin-left:216.0pt;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:Symbol;}
@list l3:level5
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:o;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
margin-left:252.0pt;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:"Courier New";
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";}
@list l3:level6
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
margin-left:288.0pt;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:Wingdings;}
@list l3:level7
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
margin-left:324.0pt;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:Symbol;}
@list l3:level8
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:o;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
margin-left:360.0pt;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:"Courier New";
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";}
@list l3:level9
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
margin-left:396.0pt;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:Wingdings;}
@list l4
{mso-list-id:1505823211;
mso-list-type:hybrid;
mso-list-template-ids:1569780138 67698689 67698691 67698693 67698689 67698691 67698693 67698689 67698691 67698693;}
@list l4:level1
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
margin-left:108.0pt;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:Symbol;}
@list l4:level2
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:o;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
margin-left:144.0pt;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:"Courier New";
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";}
@list l4:level3
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
margin-left:180.0pt;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:Wingdings;}
@list l4:level4
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
margin-left:216.0pt;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:Symbol;}
@list l4:level5
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:o;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
margin-left:252.0pt;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:"Courier New";
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";}
@list l4:level6
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
margin-left:288.0pt;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:Wingdings;}
@list l4:level7
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
margin-left:324.0pt;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:Symbol;}
@list l4:level8
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:o;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
margin-left:360.0pt;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:"Courier New";
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";}
@list l4:level9
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
margin-left:396.0pt;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:Wingdings;}
@list l5
{mso-list-id:1654407071;
mso-list-type:hybrid;
mso-list-template-ids:347240144 67698689 67698691 67698693 67698689 67698691 67698693 67698689 67698691 67698693;}
@list l5:level1
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:Symbol;}
@list l5:level2
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:o;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:"Courier New";
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";}
@list l5:level3
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:Wingdings;}
@list l5:level4
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:Symbol;}
@list l5:level5
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:o;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:"Courier New";
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";}
@list l5:level6
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:Wingdings;}
@list l5:level7
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:Symbol;}
@list l5:level8
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:o;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:"Courier New";
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";}
@list l5:level9
{mso-level-number-format:bullet;
mso-level-text:;
mso-level-tab-stop:none;
mso-level-number-position:left;
text-indent:-18.0pt;
font-family:Wingdings;}
ol
{margin-bottom:0cm;}
ul
{margin-bottom:0cm;}
-->
</style>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Below are some frequently asked questions (see my next post
for some history into the make up of the six of the gorilla groups you’ll most
likely visit in DRC):</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">How many species of gorillas are there?</i></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 28.0pt 56.0pt 84.0pt 112.0pt 140.0pt 168.0pt 196.0pt 224.0pt 252.0pt 280.0pt 308.0pt 336.0pt; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">There are 2
species of gorilla- the eastern gorilla (<i>Gorilla beringei</i>) and the
western gorilla (<i>Gorilla gorilla</i>). The former is found in Virunga and
split into two subspecies- the Mountain Gorilla of which half live in Virunga
National Park, and the Eastern Lowland Gorilla (<i>Gorilla beringei graueri</i>)
found in northern parts of the park and in Kahuzi-Biega National Park south of
Lake Kivu. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">How many mountain gorillas are left in the wild?</i></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
This question is a bit of a misnomer because mountain
gorillas don’t survive outside of the wild. In fact, the only place where they
survive in captivity is at the orphanage at Mikeno Lodge. While the results of
the 2016 census have not yet been released, the estimates are that there are
now over 1,000 mountain gorillas in the wild, between Bwindi National Park in
Uganda, and the Virunga Massif. Stay tuned for up-to date information. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">How big is the area that the mountain gorillas live in?</i></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The amount of land that mountain gorillas have in the
Virunga massif is on 447km<sup>2</sup>. You can clearly see the pressure of
humans on the land when you look at a satellite image of what is left of the
forest. An initiative by the Virunga is buying land adjacent to the park to
replant bamboo and expand the area available to the mountain gorillas. </div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_ogqVnt89bE/Wh-5WV2AcmI/AAAAAAAAByM/DuDEIK4f4wMLwZRkpaBDrUtbscIDGKWrQCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_0270.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="750" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_ogqVnt89bE/Wh-5WV2AcmI/AAAAAAAAByM/DuDEIK4f4wMLwZRkpaBDrUtbscIDGKWrQCLcBGAs/s400/IMG_0270.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The forest (East) of the N2 in DRC is home of the Mountain gorillas. As you can see, the area of land in DRC is much greater than that in Rwanda. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">What do mountain gorillas eat?</i></b>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Mountain gorillas are vegetarian but occasionally will raid
a nest of safari ants (Dorylus sp). and sometimes eat mushrooms. They select
from over 60 different species of plants but their favourite is bamboo which
may make up to 90% of their diet during bamboo shoot season. The rest of the
time, over 75% of their diet consists of 3 species: <span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">(<i>Galium
ruwenzoriense</i>, <i>Peucedanum linderi</i>, and <i>Cardus nyassus</i>). A big
silverback can eat up to 30kg per day. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0hYsY7w6KEI/Wh-6qnovNHI/AAAAAAAAByc/XQjXRol5tb4pPfUrePHVuq_ePmfvqX84gCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_0371.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="728" data-original-width="1600" height="289" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0hYsY7w6KEI/Wh-6qnovNHI/AAAAAAAAByc/XQjXRol5tb4pPfUrePHVuq_ePmfvqX84gCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_0371.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The blue sign represents the new park boundary for bamboo project. Expanding the habitat for Mountain Gorillas. The forest in the distance is the current park boundary and limit of Mountain Gorilla habitat.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">Are gorillas territorial?</span></i></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 28.0pt 56.0pt 84.0pt 112.0pt 140.0pt 168.0pt 196.0pt 224.0pt 252.0pt 280.0pt 308.0pt 336.0pt; text-autospace: none;">
No. <span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">Mountain gorilla
groups live in overlapping home ranges that vary in size from 3 to 34 km<sup>2</sup>
depending on group size and food availability. They tend to move less than 1 km
per day, resting and feeding for about the same amount of time. Occasionally
when they encounter other groups or danger they will travel further, but not
usually more than 3 km in a day. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 28.0pt 56.0pt 84.0pt 112.0pt 140.0pt 168.0pt 196.0pt 224.0pt 252.0pt 280.0pt 308.0pt 336.0pt; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 28.0pt 56.0pt 84.0pt 112.0pt 140.0pt 168.0pt 196.0pt 224.0pt 252.0pt 280.0pt 308.0pt 336.0pt; text-autospace: none;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">What do you mean
by a silverback?</span></i></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The term silverback refers to a full-grown male gorilla.
Male gorillas mature somewhere between 9 and 10 years old. At this time they
are already much bigger than the females and the hair on their backs begins to
turn white or silver. Somewhere between 12 and 15 years old, they reach their
full size and can now begin to compete for females. They are now considered a
silverback. </div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SVVOPp83Ge4/Wh-3zB5SrwI/AAAAAAAAByA/QXTIVhLsEGk6LYlimJ70fEG3BR9A6a1mACLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_0327.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1593" data-original-width="1600" height="397" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SVVOPp83Ge4/Wh-3zB5SrwI/AAAAAAAAByA/QXTIVhLsEGk6LYlimJ70fEG3BR9A6a1mACLcBGAs/s400/IMG_0327.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Humba's son poses for the camera. Who is Humba? <a href="http://ethan-kinsey.blogspot.com/2017/11/the-gorilla-story-part-ii-brief-history.html">Read this post</a>.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
While the specific make up of each gorilla group is
different, gorilla groups are led by a dominant silverback. It isn’t completely
straight forward and there’s a lot that is going on that we can’t see, but it
seems that females choose who to follow. Remember, these are highly intelligent
primates. Dominant silverbacks will usually tolerate other silverbacks in their
group either because they are their sons, but occasionally they will also tolerate
non-related silverbacks in the group- it is after all advantageous to have a
strong coalition when they do encounter other gorilla groups to help guard the
females from being abducted or convinced to join the other group. <span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">Silverbacks
are very protective of their groups and will display and act violently towards
perceived threats including lone males and other gorilla groups.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">How do you tell the
difference between a male and female gorilla?</b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It is actually quite difficult to tell the difference between
a young male and young female gorilla unless you see the penis. Gorillas have
internal testicles so you can’t go by that visual cue either. However, adult
gorillas exhibit sexual dimorphism (the fancy word for males & females
looking different)- mainly in size and the obvious “silver-back” of a fully
mature male. An adult male gorilla can weigh more than 155 kg which is almost
twice what a big female weighs (80kg). If you could look at their skulls, you’d
also see that the males have bigger skulls with a very pronounced sagittal
crest. This is the attachment for the chewing muscles. They also have fairly
large canines. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">What is a gorilla’s life like?</i></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Babies are born after a 255-day gestation period. They weigh
about 2kg at birth. Twins are sometimes born, but it is very stressful for the
mother and they rarely survive. 18% of infants die in the first six months- and
the mortality is higher in the wet season because of respiratory diseases.
Another 16% will not make it to 3 years, but after that they have a good chance
of surviving to adulthood (8 years).</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Females mature at 7-9yrs and usually have their first baby
at 10. From then on they have babies about every 4 years for the next 20 years.
<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">When
males mature, they will often leave the group they were born into and join
small groups of males or become solitary hoping to start their own families.
Mature females also leave the groups they were born into and either join other
groups or solitary males to form new groups.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">What is a typical day
on a gorilla trek?</b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Usually somewhere between 6 a.m. and 7 a.m. small bands of
trackers and rangers head out to find the gorilla groups. They do this
regardless of whether any tourist is going to visit for monitoring purposes.
Because the gorillas tend not to move that far, the trackers head out to where
they saw them last and begin tracking from there.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Meanwhile, back at the ranger’s station, you are waiting for
the registration process to begin. You’ll have your permit in hand and you fill
in your details including passport number into a book and then sit down to wait
for a briefing. It is fairly simple in Virunga, because there are fewer groups,
and fewer people visiting, so you all sit in one room and the head ranger
explains gives a short explanation of the gorilla groups and which ones you
will visit. When you are ready to go, the rangers distribute facial masks and
ask you to sanitize your hands.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At this
point if you would like a porter to help you with your bag (and hold your hand
on the slippery slopes) they are waiting outside ($15 fee per porter paid
directly to the porter). You can also buy a walking stick for $10.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Once this is done you head off on the walk.
The rangers have a fairly good idea of how long it will take to get to each
gorilla group so you head off through the fields adjacent to the park to one of
the numerous paths that enter the forest. When you enter the beautiful forest
you head along a network of paths to where the trackers have found the gorilla
group that you will visit. The trek can be anywhere from 20 minutes to 3 hours.
You leave your bags and take only your cameras. I recommend carrying an extra
camera battery and memory card in your pocket because you will likely take a
lot of photos and video. You will don your mask and slowly approach the
mountain gorillas. The rangers will vocalize to the gorillas to let them know
that everything is ok and you will begin your 1 hour with the gorillas. This is
non-negotiable, but if you want to spend more than 1 hour per day with
gorillas, and have a relatively good fitness level- <span style="background-color: white;"><span style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto auto;">contact me</span></span>. In my experience, the rangers
are keen to get you in good photographic opportunities so sticking close to
them often gets you in the best places. Your hour will go by fast. Then it is
time to head back to the ranger post where your trek ends.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bDRRuAKmz1A/Wh-8uVY7ZqI/AAAAAAAAByo/K0ZGdNQ6M0oAhSBbD73p4edhx_f_ryDQQCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_0307.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bDRRuAKmz1A/Wh-8uVY7ZqI/AAAAAAAAByo/K0ZGdNQ6M0oAhSBbD73p4edhx_f_ryDQQCLcBGAs/s400/IMG_0307.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sometimes all you need is an iphone and a cool hat.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">How should I behave in front of the gorillas?</i></b>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Be silent in the presence of the gorillas.</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>No smoking</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>No eating or drinking</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Do not stare or point directly at the gorillas</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>NO FLASH photography</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Follow the guide's instructions/actions.</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Move slowly and calmly</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Should the Silverback charge, do not run.</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Keep behind the guides.</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>No children under 15 in Rwanda, no children
under 12 in DRC (non-negotiable)</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Wear the surgical mask provided by the rangers
in the presence of the gorillas.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: black; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">Gorillas
are highly susceptible to most human diseases and if you are knowingly carrying
a contagious disease (especially flu) please DO NOT attempt to trek. This is because they are so closely related to us: read this awesome <a href="https://www.scientificamerican.com/article/tiny-genetic-differences-between-humans-and-other-primates-pervade-the-genome/">article</a> about how close we are.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: black; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">
<style>
<!--
/* Font Definitions */
@font-face
{font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-font-charset:78;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:1 134676480 16 0 131072 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:"Cambria Math";
panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536870145 1107305727 0 0 415 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:Cambria;
panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536870145 1073743103 0 0 415 0;}
/* Style Definitions */
p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal
{mso-style-unhide:no;
mso-style-qformat:yes;
mso-style-parent:"";
margin:0cm;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;}
.MsoChpDefault
{mso-style-type:export-only;
mso-default-props:yes;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;}
@page WordSection1
{size:612.0pt 792.0pt;
margin:72.0pt 90.0pt 72.0pt 90.0pt;
mso-header-margin:36.0pt;
mso-footer-margin:36.0pt;
mso-paper-source:0;}
div.WordSection1
{page:WordSection1;}
-->
</style>
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">How fit do I need to be and what if I can’t walk?</i></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
This is one of those questions where the ideal fitness and
minimum fitness are going to differ greatly. Mountain gorillas are found above
1,800m above sea level (5900ft). The forest paths are uneven and can be slippery-
and any given group could be from 500m to more than 10km from the ranger post.
Of course it is very unlikely that you will find that all the groups are deep
in the forest or far away- the shortest walk I ever did in DRC to see Humba was
less than 200m, but I’ve also walked for 3hrs with fit people to get to a
group. The rangers will take your fitness or ability to walk into consideration
but you should be able to walk a couple miles and be able to deal with some hills.
If you are unfit, definitely hire a porter to hold your hand. Remember, a lot
of it is in your mind. If for one reason or another you cannot walk, but would
like to see the gorillas, it is a great opportunity to inject some cash into
the local economy. Many of the villages in DRC are inaccessibly by car so the people
have large woven baskets called <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Kipois</i>
that they use to carry people who can’t walk (or royalty) to roads. It costs
$250 to be carried to a gorilla group. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<span style="color: black; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;"> </span><br /><div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">What should I wear for the gorilla trek?</i></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The key things to think about when packing for Rwanda or Congo
are as follows: </div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l5 level1 lfo3; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>There is a high potential that you will
encounter wet weather, </div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l5 level1 lfo3; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>The trekking can be slippery and steep and you
may need to scramble over fallen logs</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="mso-list: l5 level1 lfo3; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>There are stinging nettles in the forest that
can be quite uncomfortable when brushed against, and there are safari ants
known locally as Siafu that can also be unpleasant.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 36.0pt; text-indent: 36.0pt;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The
essentials to wear:</i></b></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="margin-left: 108.0pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l3 level1 lfo4; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Strong waterproof walking boots </div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: 108.0pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l3 level1 lfo4; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Wicking sock liners and hiking socks- it is
really useful if you can pull your socks up over your long trousers to prevent
ants from crawling up your pants. Gators can be very useful as an option. </div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: 108.0pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l3 level1 lfo4; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Long sleeved shirt (or risk nettles)</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: 108.0pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l3 level1 lfo4; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Long trousers/pants <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">helps with nettles.</i> I often just wear my rain-pants over shorts.</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: 108.0pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l3 level1 lfo4; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Sunscreen SPF 30 or more</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="margin-left: 108.0pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l3 level1 lfo4; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>If you need glasses or wear contacts carry an
extra pair of glasses</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 36.0pt; text-indent: 36.0pt;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Things
to have in your day pack:</i></b></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="margin-left: 108.0pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l4 level1 lfo5; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Warm fleece</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: 108.0pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l4 level1 lfo5; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Rain jacket/ poncho</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: 108.0pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l4 level1 lfo5; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>2 spare batteries & 2 extra memory cards</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: 108.0pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l4 level1 lfo5; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>drinking water</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: 108.0pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l4 level1 lfo5; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>high-energy/protein snack</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: 108.0pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l4 level1 lfo5; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>personal pertinent medication</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="margin-left: 108.0pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l4 level1 lfo5; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>valuables like passport and money</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 36.0pt; text-indent: 36.0pt;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Additional
optionals:</i></b></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="margin-left: 90.0pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo6; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Insect repellent (Avon Skin So Soft is an
effective insect repellent) but there are few biting insects that you will
encounter in the forest.</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: 90.0pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo6; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Binoculars (not necessary with the gorillas) but
if you like birding there are some spectacular birds</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="margin-left: 90.0pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo6; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Garden gloves</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">
<style>
<!--
/* Font Definitions */
@font-face
{font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-font-charset:78;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:1 134676480 16 0 131072 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:"Cambria Math";
panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536870145 1107305727 0 0 415 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:Cambria;
panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536870145 1073743103 0 0 415 0;}
/* Style Definitions */
p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal
{mso-style-unhide:no;
mso-style-qformat:yes;
mso-style-parent:"";
margin:0cm;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;}
.MsoChpDefault
{mso-style-type:export-only;
mso-default-props:yes;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;}
@page WordSection1
{size:612.0pt 792.0pt;
margin:72.0pt 90.0pt 72.0pt 90.0pt;
mso-header-margin:36.0pt;
mso-footer-margin:36.0pt;
mso-paper-source:0;}
div.WordSection1
{page:WordSection1;}
-->
</style>
</i></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">What camera lenses should I take?</i></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
This is always a little bit of a tricky question to answer
because it depends on the type of photo you are looking for. I only use my
iPhone which also takes good video but is quite limiting- I can’t get the close
up of the eyes etc. If you are a wildlife photographer and you have two camera
bodies you’ll want a 24-70mm and a 100-400mm lens. If you can only have one of
the above- the 100-400mm lens will be most versatile. The ability to open up
the aperture and lets as much light in will also be very useful in the forest
which can be quite dark. There is always a chance of rain when you’re with the
gorillas so make sure you have a way to keep your cameras and equipment dry.
There are some awkward but nifty rain-jackets for cameras that allow you to
continue taking photos when it is raining.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
You’ll be surprised how many photos you take so make sure
you have plenty of memory, spare batteries and a way to back your photos up. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The other thing to consider if you are a serious
photographer is that during the one hour you spend with the gorillas, you’ll
only have a fraction of the time when the conditions are right for the photo
you’re looking for- whether it is light, gorillas posing, or whatever you are
trying to capture. This makes it essential to do more than one trek.
Furthermore, you’ll often spend the first 30-45 minutes just getting used to
the shooting conditions. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">What are the difference between visiting the gorillas in Rwanda &
DRC?</i></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
There is no difference in gorilla behaviour between Rwanda
and DRC except for the natural difference between individuals and groups.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l2 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>The maximum number of people per trek in Rwanda:
8</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="mso-list: l2 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>The maximum number of people per trek in DRC: depends
on the gorilla group size- 4 if the group has less than 10 individuals, 6 if
the group has more than 10. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l2 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Minimum age in Rwanda: 15 yrs</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="mso-list: l2 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Minimum age in DRC: 12 yrs</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l2 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Cost of gorilla permit in Rwanda: $1,500</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="mso-list: l2 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Cost of gorilla permit in DRC: $400 high season,
$200 low season (contact me for low season dates).</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraph" style="mso-list: l2 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Obligatory to wear a surgical mask in DRC for
the protection of the gorillas.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraph" style="mso-list: l2 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>More accommodation options in Rwanda</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraph" style="mso-list: l2 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Rangers speak better English in Rwanda </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l2 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Registration process in Rwanda is done by your
driver/guide</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="mso-list: l2 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Registration process in DRC is done by yourself</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l2 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Habituated gorilla groups in Rwanda: 10 </div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="mso-list: l2 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span>Habituated gorilla groups in DRC: 8 but only 6
accessible from Bukima</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PERKiEbHsgA/Wh-_ZoJUgII/AAAAAAAABy0/uXub5MUsjrkuTOOkGgpfkO95vJfO4CHZwCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2294.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PERKiEbHsgA/Wh-_ZoJUgII/AAAAAAAABy0/uXub5MUsjrkuTOOkGgpfkO95vJfO4CHZwCLcBGAs/s400/IMG_2294.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
Ethan Kinseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16334652612139075633noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5867262107481263208.post-15714236193756219302017-11-30T11:09:00.002+03:002017-11-30T11:09:42.449+03:00The Gorilla Story Part II. A Brief History of the Gorilla Groups in DRC.<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4Of0aY-yj9A/Wh-2pMy97uI/AAAAAAAABx0/FVw6PdpVLJUwPRnojtmv_ykiWSQWkPebgCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2378.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1199" data-original-width="1600" height="298" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4Of0aY-yj9A/Wh-2pMy97uI/AAAAAAAABx0/FVw6PdpVLJUwPRnojtmv_ykiWSQWkPebgCLcBGAs/s400/IMG_2378.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">
<style>
<!--
/* Font Definitions */
@font-face
{font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-font-charset:78;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:1 134676480 16 0 131072 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:"Cambria Math";
panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536870145 1107305727 0 0 415 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:Cambria;
panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536870145 1073743103 0 0 415 0;}
/* Style Definitions */
p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal
{mso-style-unhide:no;
mso-style-qformat:yes;
mso-style-parent:"";
margin:0cm;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;}
.MsoChpDefault
{mso-style-type:export-only;
mso-default-props:yes;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;}
@page WordSection1
{size:612.0pt 792.0pt;
margin:72.0pt 59.15pt 72.0pt 90.0pt;
mso-header-margin:35.4pt;
mso-footer-margin:35.4pt;
mso-paper-source:0;}
div.WordSection1
{page:WordSection1;}
-->
</style>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">If we needed a species as an icon to represent the
conservation of Virunga National Park, in the DRC, it would be the Mountain
Gorilla, or <i>Gorilla beringei beringei, </i>as
it is known to taxonomists. In fact, it could be argued that without Mountain
gorillas, the National Park, established in 1925 and formerly known as Albert
National Park, wouldn’t exist today. Paradoxically, it was two collectors of
gorillas for museums that recognized the unsustainable collection of Mountain gorillas.
Charles Akeley who collected for the New York Museum of Natural History, and
Prince William of Sweden with their prominent connections were able to lobby
the Belgian King and gather international support to establish the protection
of Mountain gorillas. </span></div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The gorilla story in DRC takes us back to 2 legendary
silverbacks, Zunguruka and Rugendo who each led a habituated group of gorillas
on different ridges in the forest behind Bukima ranger post. Both were
habituated in 1986.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oGYJyDhceek/Wh-56m0QU6I/AAAAAAAAByU/XDHW89SDPYUlTVoQAdh15tW0zmOoZMm2wCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2262.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oGYJyDhceek/Wh-56m0QU6I/AAAAAAAAByU/XDHW89SDPYUlTVoQAdh15tW0zmOoZMm2wCLcBGAs/s400/IMG_2262.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A white board in the rangers office at Bukima showing the group make up. Key: SB: Silverback, BB: Blackback, ADF: Adult Female, SUB: Sub-adult, Juv: Juvenile, Beb: Baby. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Current lead Silverbacks in the six groups accessible from Bukima Ranger Post:</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Kabirizi group: Kabirizi</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Bageni group: Bageni (Kabirizi's son) </span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Nyakamwe group: Nyakamwe (Humba's brother, son of Rugendo)</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Humba group: Humba (Son of Rugendo)</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Rugendo group: Bukima</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Munyaga group: Mawazo (& Kasole)</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: small;">Two stories:</span> </span><br />
<br /></div>
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="MsoTableGrid" style="border-collapse: collapse; border: none; mso-border-insideh: none; mso-border-insidev: none; mso-padding-alt: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-yfti-tbllook: 1184;">
<tbody>
<tr style="mso-yfti-firstrow: yes; mso-yfti-irow: 0;">
<td style="padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 203.85pt;" valign="top" width="204"><div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Rugendo</b></div>
</td>
<td style="padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 1.0cm;" valign="top" width="28"><div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
</td>
<td style="padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 210.6pt;" valign="top" width="211"><div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Zunguruka</b></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="height: 21.3pt; mso-yfti-irow: 1; mso-yfti-lastrow: yes;">
<td style="height: 21.3pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 203.85pt;" valign="top" width="204"><div class="MsoNormal">
If all of Rugendo’s sons are his, he could potentially be
one of the most successful silverbacks to have led a gorilla group. At the
time that he led it, it was a large group of 18 individuals. His son's names are highlighted in bold-italic.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Rugendo was tragically assassinated on the 15<sup>th</sup>
July, 2001, in crossfire between warring militias, however, his genetics and
legacy live on.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Rugendo had many sons</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraph" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Cambria; mso-bidi-font-family: Cambria; mso-fareast-font-family: Cambria; mso-hansi-font-family: Cambria;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">-<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><i><b>Mapuwa</b></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Left his father’s group in 1998, with two females.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Cambria; mso-bidi-font-family: Cambria; mso-fareast-font-family: Cambria; mso-hansi-font-family: Cambria;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">-<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><i><b>Humba </b></i></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Cambria; mso-bidi-font-family: Cambria; mso-fareast-font-family: Cambria; mso-hansi-font-family: Cambria;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">-<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><i><b>Nyakamwe</b></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Humba left with his brother Nyakamwe in 1998. In 2014 they
interacted and split into two groups. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraph" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Cambria; mso-bidi-font-family: Cambria; mso-fareast-font-family: Cambria; mso-hansi-font-family: Cambria;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">-<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><i><b>Senkwekwe </b></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Senkwekwe took over the group, though as a young
silverback he lacked the strength and experience to keep the group intact.
Some of the females left, joining his brother’s group Mapuwa. Senkweke was
murdered together with five other gorillas in 2007.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Bukima<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(not
Rugendo’s son)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Is currently the dominant silverback of the Rugendo group.
Kongoman and Baseka are both with him.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Cambria; mso-bidi-font-family: Cambria; mso-fareast-font-family: Cambria; mso-hansi-font-family: Cambria;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">-<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><i><b>Kongoman</b></i></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Cambria; mso-bidi-font-family: Cambria; mso-fareast-font-family: Cambria; mso-hansi-font-family: Cambria;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">-<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><i><b>Baseka </b></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraph" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span style="mso-ascii-font-family: Cambria; mso-bidi-font-family: Cambria; mso-fareast-font-family: Cambria; mso-hansi-font-family: Cambria;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">-<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
<i><b> </b></i></span></span></span><i><b>Ruzirabwob</b><b>a</b></i> is a solitary silverback. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
</td>
<td style="height: 21.3pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 1.0cm;" valign="top" width="28"><div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
</td>
<td style="height: 21.3pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 210.6pt;" valign="top" width="211"><div class="MsoNormal">
Zunguruka got his name from the habit of walking in
circles. He had two sons, Ndungutse and Salama who took over the family when
Zunguruka died of old age. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
In 1994, a wild silverback showed up on the scene and
fought with Salama and Ndungutse. He did not win, but the wounds he inflicted
on Salama eventually killed him leaving Ndungutse as the sole silverback. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The wild silverback was named Kabirizi. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
In 1997, Ndungutse was assassinated. His sons Buhaya and
Karateka took over the group, and after a series of fights, Karateka ended up
as a solitary silverback. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
At this point, Kabirizi returned to the scene and killed
Buhaya. The females however refused to follow Kabirizi and were led by the
oldest female Nsekuye. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
At this point Munyaga, a lone silverback entered the scene
and took over the group being led by Nsekuye. It wasn’t long before Kabirizi
challenged Munyaga, this time winning and taking with him all the females.
Munyaga remained with a small group of sub-adult males. Then in 2007 he went
missing during a surge in rebel activities. At that time, Mawazo led the
group although he was still a Blackback. He eventually matured and was able
to acquire females of his own with his brother Kasole.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Kabirizi continued to succesfully lead his group that grew
to 36 individuals. Then in 2013 he suffered a blow when his son Bageni, who
had grown up to become a formidable Silverback, challenged him taking with
him 20 individuals, including his mother, brother, and 2 sisters. </div>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
Ethan Kinseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16334652612139075633noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5867262107481263208.post-57942695623364795352017-10-04T14:10:00.000+03:002017-11-28T14:12:09.697+03:00Ruaha Walking Safari Training (May & September 2017)
<style>
<!--
/* Font Definitions */
@font-face
{font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-font-charset:78;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536870145 1791491579 18 0 131231 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-font-charset:78;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536870145 1791491579 18 0 131231 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:Cambria;
panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536870145 1073743103 0 0 415 0;}
/* Style Definitions */
p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal
{mso-style-unhide:no;
mso-style-qformat:yes;
mso-style-parent:"";
margin:0cm;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;}
.MsoChpDefault
{mso-style-type:export-only;
mso-default-props:yes;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;}
@page WordSection1
{size:612.0pt 792.0pt;
margin:72.0pt 90.0pt 72.0pt 90.0pt;
mso-header-margin:36.0pt;
mso-footer-margin:36.0pt;
mso-paper-source:0;}
div.WordSection1
{page:WordSection1;}
-->
</style>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OlzNYC5I5DM/Wh1AO6UXynI/AAAAAAAABxM/iwLkGwM9pBctd4CMvTAxlEAp7j10g57WACLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_7333.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="838" data-original-width="1600" height="331" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OlzNYC5I5DM/Wh1AO6UXynI/AAAAAAAABxM/iwLkGwM9pBctd4CMvTAxlEAp7j10g57WACLcBGAs/s640/IMG_7333.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Incredible views along the Ruaha river. <a href="mailto:safaris@ethan-kinsey.com" target="_blank">Contact</a> me to organize a walk in this incredible place.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
May & September saw our walking safari training team in
action again in Ruaha National Park. We approached our 3<sup>rd</sup> and 4<sup>th</sup>
sessions for SPANEST with new energy and the confidence of having two sessions
already under our belts. With 24 rangers per session we had our work cut out
for us, but with the highly qualified team we ploughed forward.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-W1umPUoNhEs/Wh1ADO6uoGI/AAAAAAAABxY/BwIzBFX8NhYiKrOh1_tMKAXiF8XdSM97gCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_7097.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1593" data-original-width="1600" height="397" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-W1umPUoNhEs/Wh1ADO6uoGI/AAAAAAAABxY/BwIzBFX8NhYiKrOh1_tMKAXiF8XdSM97gCEwYBhgL/s400/IMG_7097.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Christoline Motta & Simon Peterson running drills in firearms safety & handling.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-z-m8pX7W9bM/Wh1ADnE8GyI/AAAAAAAABxY/5bXdMndR5s0dnnM1O_s5NqgvXRQRdKsGgCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_7096.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-z-m8pX7W9bM/Wh1ADnE8GyI/AAAAAAAABxY/5bXdMndR5s0dnnM1O_s5NqgvXRQRdKsGgCEwYBhgL/s400/IMG_7096.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jacques Hoffman coaches a ranger.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Each course began with a first aid component. <a href="https://www.wildmed.com/" target="_blank">Wilderness Medical Associates</a> provided the accredited Wilderness Advanced First Aid course
with a focus on anticipating, preventing, and ultimately dealing with medical
issues that could arise not only in the walking safari environment, but also in
the general duties of a national park ranger. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_fL6mo3YqpQ/Wh1ADCWC4cI/AAAAAAAABxY/ILFy5TdT5vc6bo1SJ4KVSoMR8DqPosl7wCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_7062.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1593" data-original-width="1600" height="397" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_fL6mo3YqpQ/Wh1ADCWC4cI/AAAAAAAABxY/ILFy5TdT5vc6bo1SJ4KVSoMR8DqPosl7wCEwYBhgL/s400/IMG_7062.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mike Webster gets the practice going in patient assessments.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The next component was the safe and competent use of the
large calibre rifles that are recommended for walking safaris. Unfortunately
many walking safaris in Africa are set up for disaster should the unlikely
occur and a life threatening encounter with a potentially dangerous animal
happen. Worth mentioning and on a very positive note, Ruaha National Park now
provides rangers who are walking with suitable rifles and equipment. </div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jFUYYlxxrKg/Wh1AFgAGa9I/AAAAAAAABxY/5PcpujeD0tgCNCa1j3E0Ta_iiIPXSPIjgCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_7111.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="298" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jFUYYlxxrKg/Wh1AFgAGa9I/AAAAAAAABxY/5PcpujeD0tgCNCa1j3E0Ta_iiIPXSPIjgCEwYBhgL/s400/IMG_7111.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Simon Peterson & Christoline Motta assessing a ranger in proficiency.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The final component of the training was an intense immersion
in walking wildlife. We spent hours on the ground practicing walking in
proximity to potentially dangerous wildlife, avoiding detection, extracting
from situations, and ultimately decision making in order to prevent
compromising situations that could result in stressing wildlife and stressing
clients. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Wicj3bD0mNw/Wh1AHX7h9OI/AAAAAAAABxY/GDOe54fT0oIzVhJ5G37T68E8Tn0t7FIkgCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_7238.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Wicj3bD0mNw/Wh1AHX7h9OI/AAAAAAAABxY/GDOe54fT0oIzVhJ5G37T68E8Tn0t7FIkgCEwYBhgL/s400/IMG_7238.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Following an elephant bull and learning about how to use wind direction, cover, and predicting the animals movements to view without disturbing. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Fh3GSDWon5U/Wh1AIGhFkyI/AAAAAAAABxY/99yv-IxOmFowkqeizSqXF2QcYg1fOYAagCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_7259.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Fh3GSDWon5U/Wh1AIGhFkyI/AAAAAAAABxY/99yv-IxOmFowkqeizSqXF2QcYg1fOYAagCEwYBhgL/s400/IMG_7259.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some things have to be taught in the classroom. Here Simon Peterson revises shot placement.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MwjeBVhBOTM/Wh1AIqLfPlI/AAAAAAAABxY/-nIfdtRZkKYdIJJAPItfx8K-w0DGzVWHQCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_7287.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1593" data-original-width="1600" height="397" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MwjeBVhBOTM/Wh1AIqLfPlI/AAAAAAAABxY/-nIfdtRZkKYdIJJAPItfx8K-w0DGzVWHQCEwYBhgL/s400/IMG_7287.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Elephant watching on foot is exhilarating. In the heat of the day, the elephants come to the Mwagusi to drink the cool water filtered by the sand. The river bank provides a great safe vantage point to watch unobtrusively.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QoAThzt2QuU/Wh1AJxW0OzI/AAAAAAAABxY/4ROe2o0MoUckcJGWqT4fEnFEV0dsfL00wCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_7301.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1593" data-original-width="1600" height="397" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QoAThzt2QuU/Wh1AJxW0OzI/AAAAAAAABxY/4ROe2o0MoUckcJGWqT4fEnFEV0dsfL00wCEwYBhgL/s400/IMG_7301.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pietro Luraschi leads post walk analysis in improving the guest experience and maintaining safety.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bWAh1gwCAag/Wh1AMXIrcNI/AAAAAAAABxY/cZdkxfciqYcSjm8nGcdd6uQiVE_i44QJgCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_7315.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1280" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bWAh1gwCAag/Wh1AMXIrcNI/AAAAAAAABxY/cZdkxfciqYcSjm8nGcdd6uQiVE_i44QJgCEwYBhgL/s400/IMG_7315.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Magesa, a ranger from Sadaani National Park discusses the interesting lives of Grey-capped Social Weavers. A walking safari is more about the little things. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Itd5SV2dTds/Wh1AQeDE1WI/AAAAAAAABxY/22ydRn-gF_8AjtJnJFY83uKmmLc96z2SQCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_7388.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Itd5SV2dTds/Wh1AQeDE1WI/AAAAAAAABxY/22ydRn-gF_8AjtJnJFY83uKmmLc96z2SQCEwYBhgL/s400/IMG_7388.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rangers enjoy a beautiful scene with a small herd of elephants drinking in the river bed. Watching behavior is important in learning about predicting what might happen and making decisions to avoid any confrontation. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Ethan Kinseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16334652612139075633noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5867262107481263208.post-31459658005406703622016-11-09T12:05:00.000+03:002016-11-09T12:05:02.468+03:00A Wildlife Special<style>
<!--
/* Font Definitions */
@font-face
{font-family:"MS 明朝";
panose-1:0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0;
mso-font-charset:128;
mso-generic-font-family:roman;
mso-font-format:other;
mso-font-pitch:fixed;
mso-font-signature:1 134676480 16 0 131072 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:"MS 明朝";
panose-1:0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0;
mso-font-charset:128;
mso-generic-font-family:roman;
mso-font-format:other;
mso-font-pitch:fixed;
mso-font-signature:1 134676480 16 0 131072 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:Cambria;
panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:3 0 0 0 1 0;}
/* Style Definitions */
p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal
{mso-style-unhide:no;
mso-style-qformat:yes;
mso-style-parent:"";
margin:0cm;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;}
.MsoChpDefault
{mso-style-type:export-only;
mso-default-props:yes;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;}
@page WordSection1
{size:612.0pt 792.0pt;
margin:72.0pt 90.0pt 72.0pt 90.0pt;
mso-header-margin:36.0pt;
mso-footer-margin:36.0pt;
mso-paper-source:0;}
div.WordSection1
{page:WordSection1;}
</style>
-->
<span style="font-family: "cambria"; font-size: 12.0pt;">As much as I love the wet season, there is no
doubt that thirst drives great wildlife experiences in the dry season. The
following images and videos were taken on a phenomenal ten-day safari in northern Tanzania
at the beginning of September.</span><br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<iframe width="320" height="266" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/C6zaR6ZYAEs/0.jpg" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/C6zaR6ZYAEs?feature=player_embedded" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe><span style="font-family: "cambria"; font-size: 12.0pt;"> </span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nPeCeEeU6Lc/WCLda7BhbjI/AAAAAAAABuU/p_-ta5_07nMEKRaCOKQlJLhYDY4r0QpMwCLcB/s1600/IMG_3770.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nPeCeEeU6Lc/WCLda7BhbjI/AAAAAAAABuU/p_-ta5_07nMEKRaCOKQlJLhYDY4r0QpMwCLcB/s400/IMG_3770.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fitting arrival at Oliver's Camp in Tarangire National Camp</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RfVtsaHzz7s/WCLdbkJyjGI/AAAAAAAABuY/epBDChX4j489tQ5L7jeh5Sbgf7sBq9QzwCLcB/s1600/IMG_3802.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RfVtsaHzz7s/WCLdbkJyjGI/AAAAAAAABuY/epBDChX4j489tQ5L7jeh5Sbgf7sBq9QzwCLcB/s400/IMG_3802.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alone with two beautiful male lions in Tarangire National Park</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_wdWg8Muqtw/WCLdePZdkPI/AAAAAAAABuc/ztquRXvIbVg_y2BwW1VqnT0cQ1nF04fSwCLcB/s1600/IMG_3859.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_wdWg8Muqtw/WCLdePZdkPI/AAAAAAAABuc/ztquRXvIbVg_y2BwW1VqnT0cQ1nF04fSwCLcB/s400/IMG_3859.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Typical elephant scene in Tarangire National Park.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-APDOmxgF6-s/WCLdjzTBLfI/AAAAAAAABuk/GkRdf_6OurgfVdTwNVM_jsTDylZZd1MggCLcB/s1600/IMG_3867.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-APDOmxgF6-s/WCLdjzTBLfI/AAAAAAAABuk/GkRdf_6OurgfVdTwNVM_jsTDylZZd1MggCLcB/s400/IMG_3867.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A beautiful camp to arrive to at the end of a long day of wildlife viewing. Lemala, Ngorongoro. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sISbym59brc/WCLdiGr_lJI/AAAAAAAABug/AlppJfrLGhcYTsdKqvjWyjVr3QzKoowhgCLcB/s1600/IMG_3876.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sISbym59brc/WCLdiGr_lJI/AAAAAAAABug/AlppJfrLGhcYTsdKqvjWyjVr3QzKoowhgCLcB/s400/IMG_3876.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A beautiful scene in the morning on the crater rim. This photo was taken with iPhone and has not been edited.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IkjX-Y_YdI8/WCLfgfrUWoI/AAAAAAAABu4/G2uZ0UB0JQAI3wv-x3K47d7SrL_E9qVLgCLcB/s1600/IMG_4065.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IkjX-Y_YdI8/WCLfgfrUWoI/AAAAAAAABu4/G2uZ0UB0JQAI3wv-x3K47d7SrL_E9qVLgCLcB/s400/IMG_4065.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A leopardess poses on a rock in the sunset. We stayed with her for a couple hours as she roared (video <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BKJImTUjp2c/?taken-by=tembomdogo" target="_blank">here</a>)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VRH-4HqISpk/WCLdmS8UCnI/AAAAAAAABus/UhBfh8Rqz3Qih7Jhp94QZfIBnNjghHA6ACLcB/s1600/IMG_3944.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VRH-4HqISpk/WCLdmS8UCnI/AAAAAAAABus/UhBfh8Rqz3Qih7Jhp94QZfIBnNjghHA6ACLcB/s400/IMG_3944.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This cheetah mother poses in the beautiful afternoon light on the Serengeti plains. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dKLdukVA9UI/WCLeXTLlO5I/AAAAAAAABu0/3xm0lSYjqK0JIRaHE0BH_bAt3h_8KW-_ACLcB/s1600/IMG_3949.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dKLdukVA9UI/WCLeXTLlO5I/AAAAAAAABu0/3xm0lSYjqK0JIRaHE0BH_bAt3h_8KW-_ACLcB/s400/IMG_3949.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This lioness was hunting in the morning light in the Serengeti plains. We followed her for about 20 minutes. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe width="320" height="266" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/xybK5dQD8jg/0.jpg" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/xybK5dQD8jg?feature=player_embedded" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /><iframe width="320" height="266" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/jlGVF11RDyE/0.jpg" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/jlGVF11RDyE?feature=player_embedded" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /><iframe width="320" height="266" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/JshMXpxMj3k/0.jpg" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/JshMXpxMj3k?feature=player_embedded" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></div>
<span style="font-family: "cambria"; font-size: 12.0pt;"> </span>
Ethan Kinseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16334652612139075633noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5867262107481263208.post-37686302437953627382016-11-08T16:13:00.001+03:002016-11-08T16:13:07.116+03:00Focus on Gorillas
<style>
<!--
/* Font Definitions */
@font-face
{font-family:"MS 明朝";
panose-1:0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0;
mso-font-charset:128;
mso-generic-font-family:roman;
mso-font-format:other;
mso-font-pitch:fixed;
mso-font-signature:1 134676480 16 0 131072 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:"Cambria Math";
panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:3 0 0 0 1 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:Cambria;
panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:3 0 0 0 1 0;}
/* Style Definitions */
p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal
{mso-style-unhide:no;
mso-style-qformat:yes;
mso-style-parent:"";
margin:0cm;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;}
.MsoChpDefault
{mso-style-type:export-only;
mso-default-props:yes;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;}
@page WordSection1
{size:612.0pt 792.0pt;
margin:72.0pt 90.0pt 72.0pt 90.0pt;
mso-header-margin:36.0pt;
mso-footer-margin:36.0pt;
mso-paper-source:0;}
div.WordSection1
{page:WordSection1;}
-->
</style>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uBvwDE5Wuzw/WCGdwOaKE6I/AAAAAAAABt0/q_YlT5JmcrULEkfMj-TVky3Cx6V_ZyjRACLcB/s1600/IMG_4568.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uBvwDE5Wuzw/WCGdwOaKE6I/AAAAAAAABt0/q_YlT5JmcrULEkfMj-TVky3Cx6V_ZyjRACLcB/s400/IMG_4568.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The beta silverback of the Nyakamwe group ponders our presence. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I give the head ranger the thick envelope of gorilla permits
that I have. We speak in Swahili because his English isn’t great, and my French
is poorer than his English. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“You want to do two gorilla treks tomorrow?” he asks.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Yes, not just tomorrow, but everyday for 5 days.”</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
He looks at me, smiling. I can read in his face that he
thinks this is crazy. Our conversation continues. There’s a phone call to his
superiors. He calls another ranger and they speak too quickly for me to
understand what is going on, but then he turns to me and says,“Ok. Don’t worry.
Tomorrow I will come to the camp at 7:30. Be ready to walk far. This is the
first time we have ever done this. I don’t even know if it is possible, but I
will know how we will do this tomorrow.”</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The next morning, we set off. One guest who has had knee
surgery can’t walk the distance, so 12 porters are there, ready to carry her in
a “kipoi”: a local basket stretcher. We trudge a long through the potato fields
for the first two hours to the path into the forest with the most direct access
to the gorilla group. The first group we visit is Bageni. This is the biggest
group of habituated gorillas in Virunga at the moment with 22 individuals. Most
gorilla families are named after their alpha silverback. After a successful visit,
we head to Nyakamwe, a smaller family of 11.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_OFOSSen2QM/WCGdxZ-JeLI/AAAAAAAABt4/3HsgFmEz7F4wwgtEElAaemjPe-SzEcH4wCLcB/s1600/IMG_4580.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_OFOSSen2QM/WCGdxZ-JeLI/AAAAAAAABt4/3HsgFmEz7F4wwgtEElAaemjPe-SzEcH4wCLcB/s400/IMG_4580.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nyakamwe, the leader of a gorilla family.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: Cambria; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-CA; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: "MS 明朝"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">Virunga National Park has eight families of
habituated mountain gorillas, six of whom are within easy reach of Bukima
Ranger post. Trackers and rangers go out daily to locate each group and check
on all the individuals. Like humans, every gorilla has unique facial features
as well as behaviour. The most obvious and easy to identify is the nose print. In
our 5 days with the gorillas, there is no way to learn each individual, but as
the week progresses, the names become less foreign, and I gain some insight
into the dynamics of gorilla society. Their stories are saddened by tragedies
involving assassinations and murder by rebels.</span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-A0x1Ons1YEc/WCGd1LIgRqI/AAAAAAAABuA/6EyIdLD9muo0d3xI2SAAvF5GzPZbN3ESgCLcB/s1600/IMG_4967.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-A0x1Ons1YEc/WCGd1LIgRqI/AAAAAAAABuA/6EyIdLD9muo0d3xI2SAAvF5GzPZbN3ESgCLcB/s400/IMG_4967.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jacques and Pierre, two dedicated rangers protecting gorillas in Virunga National Park. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
One of the challenges of photographing gorillas is that you are only allowed one hour with a group per day. To get around this, we bought out all the permits for two groups, and negotiated permission to trek to two group per day. This would not expose the gorillas to more contact time than allowed but would allow us to double our photographic opportunities. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe width="320" height="266" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/suVey4IIymM/0.jpg" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/suVey4IIymM?feature=player_embedded" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe width="320" height="266" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/XNkgGvC39g8/0.jpg" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/XNkgGvC39g8?feature=player_embedded" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_rOxtVjqJFI/WCGdufp11bI/AAAAAAAABtw/o1rTDbZc1hM1vEzdnRimVH04Aq5ES2MSwCLcB/s1600/IMG_4767.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_rOxtVjqJFI/WCGdufp11bI/AAAAAAAABtw/o1rTDbZc1hM1vEzdnRimVH04Aq5ES2MSwCLcB/s400/IMG_4767.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There is more to Virunga than gorillas. These beautiful ground orchids along the path in the forest. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Z8UQrTCEUZU/WCGdytXrOtI/AAAAAAAABt8/YjnIruDF5yMIIGqw9BVbpzkLoa4SdRGbwCLcB/s1600/IMG_4854.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Z8UQrTCEUZU/WCGdytXrOtI/AAAAAAAABt8/YjnIruDF5yMIIGqw9BVbpzkLoa4SdRGbwCLcB/s400/IMG_4854.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mawazo, the leader of Munyaga group watches us with a female and her youngster.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Ethan Kinseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16334652612139075633noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5867262107481263208.post-16271775755928573372016-11-07T17:11:00.000+03:002016-11-07T17:11:05.698+03:00A Honeymoon AdventureThe parameters were fairly simple: organize a fun honeymoon.
It doesn’t have to be ultra luxurious, but throw in a nice place or two, and sprinkle
in a few special moments. So there are the organized special moments and the
unorganized ones, and despite the concept of starting with our basic Wilderness
Camp and ending with the beautiful honeymoon suite at Rubondo Island Camp, the
wilderness experience set the bar high for the rest of the trip.<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Like this elephant scene before we’d even got to camp.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Wa9KXZzWQnQ/WBsvMBQkT3I/AAAAAAAABrY/CVNdUScdoe4QYq_wscLImdiE6zp-8glnwCLcB/s1600/IMG_4398.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Wa9KXZzWQnQ/WBsvMBQkT3I/AAAAAAAABrY/CVNdUScdoe4QYq_wscLImdiE6zp-8glnwCLcB/s400/IMG_4398.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A herd of elephant walk along the edge of Silale Swamp in Tarangire.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Or arriving in camp with this light, and a welcoming party
of 200 zebra. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-52VulXtTbWY/WBsvEsu03VI/AAAAAAAABrE/FyYTxk69BEM3XDtOd1Vti6V4OvQWBAn9ACLcB/s1600/IMG_4136.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-52VulXtTbWY/WBsvEsu03VI/AAAAAAAABrE/FyYTxk69BEM3XDtOd1Vti6V4OvQWBAn9ACLcB/s400/IMG_4136.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rxK_I2p_OXw/WCCK7YYApvI/AAAAAAAABtc/7p5pyO6qXSYiMw_FpYFpMLLFzEkk8NangCLcB/s1600/IMG_4135.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rxK_I2p_OXw/WCCK7YYApvI/AAAAAAAABtc/7p5pyO6qXSYiMw_FpYFpMLLFzEkk8NangCLcB/s400/IMG_4135.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our wilderness camp- a fantastic option for those who seek an exclusive experience but are less concerned about the amenities offered by luxury lodges and camps. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Or this leopard sighting less than half a kilometer from camp.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tzJZlierep4/WBsvKif6k7I/AAAAAAAABrQ/1hi3qEA0cmkkoIGGd5s6wmfgesFFtxoGACLcB/s1600/IMG_4224.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EV18-r5c0xM/WBsvFDMbxGI/AAAAAAAABrI/7e_yLKH9RXISvmiuv33Ue3SvHMCICxJOgCLcB/s1600/IMG_4148.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EV18-r5c0xM/WBsvFDMbxGI/AAAAAAAABrI/7e_yLKH9RXISvmiuv33Ue3SvHMCICxJOgCLcB/s400/IMG_4148.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It had been a long and productive morning, but as we sat
down for lunch, I heard a vervet monkey bark out an alarm. Instead of the all
too appealing siesta after lunch, I hopped into the vehicle to investigate. It
was hot and quiet but I found the vervet monkey in a fruiting fig tree. A
bushbuck startled, and a few tsetse flies entered the car and began buzzing
around in the foot-well of the driver’s seat. The vervet, who had been quiet
barked again, but rather half-heartedly. Then out of the corner of my eye, I
noticed dangling antelope legs in the top of an Acacia. Lifting my binoculars
to my eyes, there on the branch I saw a beautiful leopard fast asleep in the
tree with a young hartebeest that it has stashed.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HpbYGTdLi6g/WBsvG4stBaI/AAAAAAAABrM/-yZdlegrhK4Rtsb1zjuRJWwyB8mhoonJgCLcB/s1600/IMG_4149.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HpbYGTdLi6g/WBsvG4stBaI/AAAAAAAABrM/-yZdlegrhK4Rtsb1zjuRJWwyB8mhoonJgCLcB/s400/IMG_4149.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is what a tired cat looks like! </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
From Tarangire we headed up to Lake Natron, a special environment
and perfect for things like swimming in waterfalls, watching the sunset with
hundreds of flamingo in front of you, and flying over the dramatic landscape. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-L6f8udhMTn4/WCCG3YOz73I/AAAAAAAABs4/iyhEys7fOXoJ2HJXnvSmPOws25VeTkB9ACLcB/s1600/IMG_4208.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-L6f8udhMTn4/WCCG3YOz73I/AAAAAAAABs4/iyhEys7fOXoJ2HJXnvSmPOws25VeTkB9ACLcB/s400/IMG_4208.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Incredible salt deposits on Lake Natron from the air in a ultra-light plane. Photo credit: Zac Peterson.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-z0uhfuMMtAA/WCCIj_VEVxI/AAAAAAAABtI/4bCsy7Hb0SgzOdwk8cAvsz-crve7Qjp2gCLcB/s1600/IMG_4224.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-z0uhfuMMtAA/WCCIj_VEVxI/AAAAAAAABtI/4bCsy7Hb0SgzOdwk8cAvsz-crve7Qjp2gCLcB/s400/IMG_4224.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Honeymoons are supposed to have waterfalls in them right?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-m_CGXOWLIZ8/WCCIkVesY9I/AAAAAAAABtM/Zp3xT--KkMc5_H5XribEYZSrVbUCcpK5QCLcB/s1600/IMG_4228.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-m_CGXOWLIZ8/WCCIkVesY9I/AAAAAAAABtM/Zp3xT--KkMc5_H5XribEYZSrVbUCcpK5QCLcB/s400/IMG_4228.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A beautiful setting for a sundowner with the rift valley and Oldonyo Lengai the backdrop.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I could easily stay longer, but with limited time, it was
time to head to Serengeti for more wildlife. After the long drive we pulled
into camp, and before the manager could finish his welcome briefing, two
massive male lions began to roar not half a mile away. As you can imagine, we
got back in the vehicle (with the camp staff, who couldn’t stop giggling) and
followed the lions as they walked and roared into the darkness.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kNcwwqHVbko/WCCG2FiuHJI/AAAAAAAABsw/Vz0cPdFEHNYFpQxID2-TXXDTgSvDh2kpwCLcB/s1600/IMG_4306.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kNcwwqHVbko/WCCG2FiuHJI/AAAAAAAABsw/Vz0cPdFEHNYFpQxID2-TXXDTgSvDh2kpwCLcB/s400/IMG_4306.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Serengeti sunset makes for a special moment.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
After a couple of full days of wildlife experiences we
boarded a small plane to Rubondo Island. Rubondo Island and the Camp that
Asilia manages offer such a different experience to the traditional savannah
safari that I would love to include it in every itinerary. It was meant to be
the finale of the honeymoon, the relaxation part, but as we met for drinks
around the fire it was clear that instead of resting we’d be exploring. The
next morning, before the sun rose, after a nice French-press coffee with hot
milk and camp-made cookies, we set off for a dawn canoe trip along the shores of
the island. It was beautiful: African fish eagles calling, hippos ducking away,
a sheltered bay with hundreds of egrets, jacanas, and various stork species. We
returned to breakfast, and the news that the trackers had found the chimpanzees.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-auzv47xMk88/WCCJNOek9_I/AAAAAAAABtQ/QwUz8rlNFvgS_Ji5ftuxk1jg2BKzx-ZCgCLcB/s1600/IMG_4343.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-auzv47xMk88/WCCJNOek9_I/AAAAAAAABtQ/QwUz8rlNFvgS_Ji5ftuxk1jg2BKzx-ZCgCLcB/s400/IMG_4343.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dawn kayak on Lake Victoria. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
After little deliberation we asked for packed lunches and
set off across the island to find the chimps. After an initial drive, we began
to trek up a hill past one of the chimps’ favorite nesting sites to a “calling
site” where the trackers listened for chimps calling. A rain storm had allowed
the chimpanzees to slip away and while we tried to find them their silence
meant it wasn’t likely that we would see them. Instead we wandered the trails,
soaking up the forest, tasting fruit that was ripe, spooking bush-pig, and
enjoying the bird chorus.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
As we drove back to the camp, the radio crackled:</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Can you please ask if they still want to fish?”. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It was late in the afternoon, and the whole relaxation thing
wasn’t going to happen. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Yes, please get the boat ready because we won’t have much
time”.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dZR7IduP2QU/WCCG5fjxi0I/AAAAAAAABs8/U-M0uQg1KjIJoz5UCpqfSJuaYrsO1gb9ACLcB/s1600/IMG_4352.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dZR7IduP2QU/WCCG5fjxi0I/AAAAAAAABs8/U-M0uQg1KjIJoz5UCpqfSJuaYrsO1gb9ACLcB/s400/IMG_4352.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not a bad ending to a day on Rubondo Island.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Deus smiled as we boarded the boat, there really wasn’t much
time. Quickly showing the novice fishers how the rods worked we began to troll,
the sun quickly dropping in the sky. “Zzzzzzz” went the line, “Fish!” said
Deus, but we were too slow: 1-0 to the fish. “Zzzzzzz” went the line, “Fish!”
said Deus. This time it was hooked. Reeling it in we could see it was a good
size but then suddenly the line went slack. 2-0 to the fish. We laughed. Another
bite, this time the fish did not get away and we’d caught our dinner. It was
time to head back so we began to troll back toward camp. “Zzzzzzz” went the
line, “Fish!” said Deus and we began to reel in our 4<sup>th</sup> bite,
“Zzzzzzz” went the line, “Double!” said Deus…. and so ended the honeymoon. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bgwleMt5ElU/WCCJxSkKyAI/AAAAAAAABtY/i0UbQE3SYqwyUFqobJmuRTJnjXL2XbWJQCLcB/s1600/IMG_4371.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bgwleMt5ElU/WCCJxSkKyAI/AAAAAAAABtY/i0UbQE3SYqwyUFqobJmuRTJnjXL2XbWJQCLcB/s400/IMG_4371.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
Ethan Kinseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16334652612139075633noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5867262107481263208.post-31382289055738561432016-11-04T10:30:00.000+03:002016-11-04T10:30:44.241+03:00On Foot: A No Frills Adventure in Tanzania<style>
<!--
/* Font Definitions */
@font-face
{font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-font-charset:78;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:1 134676480 16 0 131072 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:"Cambria Math";
panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536870145 1107305727 0 0 415 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:Cambria;
panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536870145 1073743103 0 0 415 0;}
/* Style Definitions */
p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal
{mso-style-unhide:no;
mso-style-qformat:yes;
mso-style-parent:"";
margin:0cm;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;}
.MsoChpDefault
{mso-style-type:export-only;
mso-default-props:yes;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;}
@page WordSection1
{size:612.0pt 792.0pt;
margin:72.0pt 90.0pt 72.0pt 90.0pt;
mso-header-margin:36.0pt;
mso-footer-margin:36.0pt;
mso-paper-source:0;}
div.WordSection1
{page:WordSection1;}
</style> <br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EbddSUkw4zY/WBsmRi4MqdI/AAAAAAAABqo/nNoU6gc-Rek7PKlXkfQKp4uTQV8YVx4TQCLcB/s1600/110%2BTaroia%2Band%2BEthan%2BLead%2Bthe%2BHike.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="238" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EbddSUkw4zY/WBsmRi4MqdI/AAAAAAAABqo/nNoU6gc-Rek7PKlXkfQKp4uTQV8YVx4TQCLcB/s400/110%2BTaroia%2Band%2BEthan%2BLead%2Bthe%2BHike.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Walking in Serengeti. Photo credit: Tom Kenny. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
“[We] are interested in something that is a lot less
comfortable, and involves a lot more hiking and camping…” was all I needed to
put this itinerary together. Every guide I know of a certain personality and
calibre will agree that being on foot is the ultimate way to experience wilderness.
Wind direction and strength, the angle of the sun, the ability to interpret a
bird’s call all become significant. In essence, it is also the test of a
guide’s skill and guests’ discipline, because a small mistake usually means a
cloud of dust and the screech of some tick-birds, followed by a few minutes
looking at tracks on the ground and saying “A …. was here before it
smelled/heard/saw us”.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-g6jlZuxhIOU/WBsiCdzNczI/AAAAAAAABp0/dKDfTwRUa1kcaYNuWiQCD4YRXauumNE1gCLcB/s1600/IMG_3473.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-g6jlZuxhIOU/WBsiCdzNczI/AAAAAAAABp0/dKDfTwRUa1kcaYNuWiQCD4YRXauumNE1gCLcB/s400/IMG_3473.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Viewing hippos resting on foot- the ethical way is to leave them sleeping!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
In pursuit of wilderness we headed to some waterholes in an
area only frequented by a small group of guides in the know: a secret that’s
existence relies on few people visiting. The first lesson in discipline came
when a mother cheetah with four cubs came down to drink at the water. The
excitement of the moment and gasps of awe gave away our presence and they
quickly slunk away. It was a lesson that helped us into a beautiful sighting on
the edge of another waterhole. The sun was high in the sky, and we’d covered 2
miles, very slowly, as we began an approach of a second waterhole. The heat was
beginning to send the wind swirling as we quietly made our way around the
Gardenia bushes. I could hear a flock of Vulturine guineafowl, a beautiful
bird, beyond the bushes. We couldn’t scare them or they would warn everything
around that we were there. A warthog trotted toward the water then turned to
look at us; we all froze. As he approached a little closer, we remained motionless,
barely breathing. A gap in the bushes allowed us to crawl into the view of the
waterhole and we sat watching as the guineafowl took their turn drinking alongside
the warthogs. An elephant came down, and we sat in silence as another and then
another joined. After enjoying the elephants for a few minutes, we decided to
retreat. It was quite thrilling knowing that they never knew we were there. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-92gzC8Flg-E/WBsiD__id2I/AAAAAAAABp4/dMbNQYgQFSExaAp9UAGpMjEWOqMZ89y9ACLcB/s1600/IMG_3475.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-92gzC8Flg-E/WBsiD__id2I/AAAAAAAABp4/dMbNQYgQFSExaAp9UAGpMjEWOqMZ89y9ACLcB/s400/IMG_3475.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The wide angle of the iPhone camera doesn't do the distance justice. A small herd of elephant drinks while we watch quietly. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Our journey continued with a drive to the beginning of the
Tarangire river. Camping on a bluff overlooking the drying river gave us great
access to some of Africa’s finest walking. Elephants routinely come down to the
river to drink, and the riverbank, termite mounds and large sausage trees gave
us good cover to approach. Our goal always to leave the animals without knowing
that we had been watching them. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ULaeCo2lkZQ/WBsiAbtkRUI/AAAAAAAABpw/aMqSs-AyYeEDgqrf7lCk625GhU5DCiPrgCLcB/s1600/IMG_3505.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ULaeCo2lkZQ/WBsiAbtkRUI/AAAAAAAABpw/aMqSs-AyYeEDgqrf7lCk625GhU5DCiPrgCLcB/s400/IMG_3505.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arriving back to camp from beautiful afternoon walk along the Tarangire river. What you can't see in the photo is that there were fresh lion tracks on top of our tracks from only an hour and a half earlier.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Lake Natron was next on the list, and we arrived hot and
dusty to some cold beers and a dip in the natural pool of alkaline water,
complete with white lipped tilapia that nibbled from between our toes. The
Natron environment is really unique and I have written about it before …. One
of the best ways to appreciate the landscape is from the air, so I organized
for a friend, Zac Peterson, to fly in with his ultra-light airplane. Here are
some images captured from the plane… </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The next three days of the safari were spent walking in
Serengeti National Park. Only a couple of kilometers after leaving the
corrugated main road, we left behind the vehicle tracks and headed out
cross-country to our first campsite of the trip. You know you are going to a
remote camp when there is not even a vehicle track to get there. From then on,
we would be on foot: camp would move about 5-8 km every morning while we walked
following a tributary of the Grumeti river, arriving around noon in time for a
cold beer and lunch. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ujMuJ5Eg4Ko/WBskm8YmDLI/AAAAAAAABqY/YH-R_ogEvTUu1RE8hrjU1L6LKOH7AlT_QCLcB/s1600/IMG_3667.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ujMuJ5Eg4Ko/WBskm8YmDLI/AAAAAAAABqY/YH-R_ogEvTUu1RE8hrjU1L6LKOH7AlT_QCLcB/s400/IMG_3667.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The simple wilderness camp that moved while we walked. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We’d head off in the morning, reading tracks and signs and discerning
what had happened overnight: fresh lion spoor - probably the ones we heard
roaring at night, a leopard track, elephant coming down to drink at night,
civet… the list goes on. By 10 a.m. it would be getting warm and we’d start to
intercept animals coming down to drink. The entire walk teemed with game:
giraffe, zebra, wildebeest, topi, hartebeest, eland, buffalo, impala, baboon,
vervet monkeys. Wildlife would come by camp, and on the second day after lunch
we found a beautiful lion and two lioness feeding on two young buffalo calves
they’d killed. We decided to approach by vehicle so as not to disturb their
lunch. At the last camp, at least 50 elephant came by while we were having
lunch. Afternoon typically consisted of a shorter stroll arriving back in camp
to watch the sun go down, have a hot shower, and enjoy a cold Gin-tonic,
Kentucky mule, or beer by the fire. </div>
Ethan Kinseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16334652612139075633noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5867262107481263208.post-3577554937265713132016-11-03T13:08:00.000+03:002016-11-03T13:08:25.640+03:00Luxury and the Wildebeest Migration (1st week of August)
<style>
<!--
/* Font Definitions */
@font-face
{font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-font-charset:78;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:1 134676480 16 0 131072 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-font-charset:78;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:1 134676480 16 0 131072 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:Cambria;
panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536870145 1073743103 0 0 415 0;}
/* Style Definitions */
p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal
{mso-style-unhide:no;
mso-style-qformat:yes;
mso-style-parent:"";
margin:0cm;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;}
.MsoChpDefault
{mso-style-type:export-only;
mso-default-props:yes;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;}
@page WordSection1
{size:612.0pt 792.0pt;
margin:72.0pt 90.0pt 72.0pt 90.0pt;
mso-header-margin:36.0pt;
mso-footer-margin:36.0pt;
mso-paper-source:0;}
div.WordSection1
{page:WordSection1;}
-->
</style>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
As water sources dry up in southern Serengeti, more than 1.5
million wildebeest begin to make their way north toward the permanent river
called the Mara. While the exact arrival is dictated by the extent of the
drying and rainfall in northern Serengeti and Kenya’s Maasai Mara, they usually
arrive in mid-July. Again, depending on where the greener pastures are, they
move back and forth across the Mara river, in and out of Kenya, following the
sporadic thunderstorms. </div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pvoUmqqHyX4/WBsFYPBfhoI/AAAAAAAABo4/oytgPdjzxwI-U5IT3EqpqXxyDCmMPv9qQCLcB/s1600/Watching%2Bmigration%2Bsingita.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pvoUmqqHyX4/WBsFYPBfhoI/AAAAAAAABo4/oytgPdjzxwI-U5IT3EqpqXxyDCmMPv9qQCLcB/s640/Watching%2Bmigration%2Bsingita.jpg" width="425" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Us watching as thousands of wildebeest plunge into the river below us. Photo credit: Pietro Luraschi.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We arrived at <a href="http://singita.com/lodge/singita-mara-river-tented-camp/" target="_blank">Singita Mara Camp</a>, by far the most luxurious
camp in northern Serengeti, on the 3<sup>rd</sup> of August. The
herds had already crossed the river heading north, and some were making their
way back across. Just the sheer numbers of wildebeest was incredible as we
slowly drove the northern bank of the river looking for an aggregation that
looked to cross imminently. Patience, patience… but we didn’t need much as we
found a group many thousand strong gathering on the banks of the river. The
milling back and forth, the reluctance of the wildebeest- whether it is fear of
the cold rushing water, or fear of the crocodiles submerged with only their
eyes and nostrils above water, I do not know, but it adds to the excitement
(and sometimes frustration). <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JMJXvsCLu6s" target="_blank">Here is an amusing cartoon about it</a>. When they do
start to cross, it just goes and goes and goes until there are no more
wildebeest left. The energy is incredible. Then it stops and the milling resumes,
this time, mothers looking for their babies and babies looking for their
mothers. <span style="font-size: x-small;">(The video below shows what we were seeing)</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe width="320" height="266" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/48cGN2ELwb4/0.jpg" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/48cGN2ELwb4?feature=player_embedded" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XKTmG2pRQM4/WBsKyRF3dpI/AAAAAAAABpM/qo41db7kCPM59jEBMhuCPqrlE8PLJBtpgCLcB/s1600/IMG_3419.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XKTmG2pRQM4/WBsKyRF3dpI/AAAAAAAABpM/qo41db7kCPM59jEBMhuCPqrlE8PLJBtpgCLcB/s400/IMG_3419.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This could be your private lunch banquet in the Serengeti plains.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Of course, there is more to the Serengeti (and northern
Tanzania) than the migration so we also included a couple days in Tarangire
National Park, where there is a daily migration of elephants to the permanent
water sources. The landscape is also different with the typical red African
soils and eccentric Baobab trees that dot the ridges, offering a nice contrast
to Serengeti’s woodlands and plains. </div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-phg-0D5AFwE/WBsKyK6EkNI/AAAAAAAABpI/o_jC6gzqK0s7LULaGzXPvnJ4DxX8VyJsQCLcB/s1600/IMG_3326.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-phg-0D5AFwE/WBsKyK6EkNI/AAAAAAAABpI/o_jC6gzqK0s7LULaGzXPvnJ4DxX8VyJsQCLcB/s400/IMG_3326.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is a classic Tarangire scene. Elephants walking into the sunset with a magestic baobab tree in the foreground. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
Ethan Kinseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16334652612139075633noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5867262107481263208.post-49857123373903164332016-03-06T16:09:00.002+03:002016-03-06T16:10:37.048+03:00Adventures in SerengetiThe following photos are all taken with my iPhone on three safaris through the northern Tanzania, with Serengeti as the feature.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gxhxkcTb64A/VtwiXx4qyRI/AAAAAAAABnM/Ch8AlqFQ0uc/s1600/IMG_1848.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gxhxkcTb64A/VtwiXx4qyRI/AAAAAAAABnM/Ch8AlqFQ0uc/s400/IMG_1848.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I'll start with a photo of the guides who co-guided with me on the trips. It is common knowledge that the guides make a trip, they keep you safe, host you, and give deeper insight into the wildlife and ecology of the savanna. With no more than four guests per guide we keep a ratio that ensures everyone gets the right amount of attention. Thank you Robert Tarimo and Paul Oliver.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cozZb_2OMGE/Vtwhi_4pz2I/AAAAAAAABmk/5g90PcLFUCk/s1600/IMG_1795.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cozZb_2OMGE/Vtwhi_4pz2I/AAAAAAAABmk/5g90PcLFUCk/s400/IMG_1795.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The theme of many of these photos could be about big sky. This male giraffe seems dwarfed by the plains and sky. Since I only use my phone for photos, I don't use any zoom. This photo was taken en-route to <a href="http://www.asiliaafrica.com/destinations/tanzania/serengeti/namiri-plains/" target="_blank">Asilia's Namiri Plains Camp.</a> Because of my previous work for Asilia, I am one of few guides allowed to drive in the camps where they normally only want people guided by their guides.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zP4jVXr2vvU/VtwhgdCJ1ZI/AAAAAAAABnE/2sahDKBbAyY/s1600/IMG_1798.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zP4jVXr2vvU/VtwhgdCJ1ZI/AAAAAAAABnE/2sahDKBbAyY/s400/IMG_1798.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Again- the skies in the Serengeti provide this impressive backdrop fro wildlife viewing. This photo
was taken on Christmas day. If you look carefully you can see one of the
vehicles (driven by Paul Oliver who guided with me on this trip) to the
left of the big rock kopjie. You can't see the lions they were
watching.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yU14AJkaaUo/VtwhmqU093I/AAAAAAAABnE/sIfI0woHwCE/s1600/IMG_1831.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yU14AJkaaUo/VtwhmqU093I/AAAAAAAABnE/sIfI0woHwCE/s400/IMG_1831.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Without using a zoom you'd have to be in a park with very habitated black rhinos to get a close up just using a phone. This is a black rhino and her calf only a few hundred meters from where we camped. Unfortunately rhino poaching still continues and there are very few rhino that are still left in Serengeti. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8pJ1DD_fuV8/VtwhtCozkKI/AAAAAAAABnE/U7Y_VH7Mx_A/s1600/IMG_2362.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="208" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8pJ1DD_fuV8/VtwhtCozkKI/AAAAAAAABnE/U7Y_VH7Mx_A/s400/IMG_2362.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I'm often late for lunch- and on this occasion we were nearly back in camp but found this pod of hippos basking in the sun along the banks of the Mara river. While things are getting busier every year, this part of Serengeti is very quiet outside of migration season and while some of the animals are harder to find, it is a great place to be alone especially.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-T8lTrqKXVKI/VtwhzieOElI/AAAAAAAABnE/FZuxOLRNtCY/s1600/IMG_2421.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="208" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-T8lTrqKXVKI/VtwhzieOElI/AAAAAAAABnE/FZuxOLRNtCY/s400/IMG_2421.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An elephant herd feeding along the main road at Bologonja. While flying between camps is often the most efficient way to maximize the wildlife experience, driving the vast distances does give you an understanding of the vastness of the ecosystem.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_VwqNEtqLR0/VtwhvuesHiI/AAAAAAAABnE/aYvsqDLyLa4/s1600/IMG_2387.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_VwqNEtqLR0/VtwhvuesHiI/AAAAAAAABnE/aYvsqDLyLa4/s400/IMG_2387.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This old male lion was pretty beaten up but still trying to keep up with the pride. When the wildebeest move out of the north, lion prides that have had it easy suddenly find their territories tight and must venture further to find food and keep alive. This often leads to territorial fights between neighboring prides. Prides often divide into subgroups that are easier to feed, but this creates issues for the males who now risk their lionesses running into nomadic or roaming males.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-L6vPdvj0WAI/VtwiYCdT8HI/AAAAAAAABnI/onpRu5h-u_g/s1600/IMG_1847.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-L6vPdvj0WAI/VtwiYCdT8HI/AAAAAAAABnI/onpRu5h-u_g/s400/IMG_1847.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A picnic breakfast in the Serengeti can be a 5-star buffet or a tailgate affair as below... as long as there is hot coffee I'm fine.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RoP9sMoZpA0/VtwjIq-0MjI/AAAAAAAABnU/lTwFtQs74mY/s1600/IMG_1883.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RoP9sMoZpA0/VtwjIq-0MjI/AAAAAAAABnU/lTwFtQs74mY/s400/IMG_1883.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KzR9seOzPq0/VtwqKCkg2YI/AAAAAAAABnk/dYGPzLMYwxk/s1600/IMG_2006.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KzR9seOzPq0/VtwqKCkg2YI/AAAAAAAABnk/dYGPzLMYwxk/s400/IMG_2006.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The choice of accommodation is yours. Do you want the ultra-luxury that <a href="http://mwibalodge.com/" target="_blank">Mwiba</a> or <a href="http://singita.com/region/singita-grumeti/" target="_blank">Singita</a> properties offer or would you rather keep it simple as below. For me, safari should be about the wildlife experience and the landscapes. With good guides, the experience you have at either the luxury or the simple camps will be very good.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-86D54K4Qpl4/VtwqLjOJN0I/AAAAAAAABno/i3bJPj-fVhU/s1600/IMG_2339.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="207" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-86D54K4Qpl4/VtwqLjOJN0I/AAAAAAAABno/i3bJPj-fVhU/s400/IMG_2339.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xbSZn2YckNU/VtwqxDlsBAI/AAAAAAAABns/_AtnRo5D3cE/s1600/IMG_1827.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xbSZn2YckNU/VtwqxDlsBAI/AAAAAAAABns/_AtnRo5D3cE/s640/IMG_1827.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cats on rocks... doesn't get much better than this. It was pretty hot in the morning but with 15 cubs, these lioness were hungry. We found them walking along the road before they climbed onto these rocks to get a better view of prey in the long grass. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />Ethan Kinseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16334652612139075633noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5867262107481263208.post-89305471605431323962016-02-11T13:18:00.002+03:002016-02-11T13:20:23.915+03:00A Short Visit to Virunga (Nov 2015)As a guide who spends most of his time in the classic savannahs of Tanzania in some of the world’s most wildlife rich national parks, the DRC offers a very contrasting but equally stimulating experience <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CUbO4HPzgTI/VrxYsfa8p_I/AAAAAAAABl4/SV9-sH7c93k/s1600/IMG_1468.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CUbO4HPzgTI/VrxYsfa8p_I/AAAAAAAABl4/SV9-sH7c93k/s320/IMG_1468.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A few iphone photos of the incredible vegetation on Nyiragongo.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
There are few places in the world with as spectacular and diverse landscapes, habitats, and wildlife as Virunga National Park. Laid out along 300km of the western arm of Africa’s Great Rift Valley, it spreads from Lake Kivu through volcano fields (two of them still active), past Lake Edward and the equator, past the glacier-covered Mountains of the Moon, and ends eventually in the Semliki valley to the north. Such diverse geography lends itself naturally to diverse habitats home to an incredible variety of mammals, birdlife, and other lifeforms.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-C2QWuf5mF-Q/VrxYqAWM0kI/AAAAAAAABl8/EXPtbYlv_ks/s1600/IMG_1081.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-C2QWuf5mF-Q/VrxYqAWM0kI/AAAAAAAABl8/EXPtbYlv_ks/s320/IMG_1081.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Among the incredible life forms are these Boulenger's pygmy chameleons. A rare and special find.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-W8JEsSBJBIA/VrxYqmiEJqI/AAAAAAAABl8/7gGnmDPYNO4/s1600/IMG_1457.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-W8JEsSBJBIA/VrxYqmiEJqI/AAAAAAAABl8/7gGnmDPYNO4/s320/IMG_1457.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ascending Nyiragongo. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Dszmf0V9zys/VrxYpYCsF2I/AAAAAAAABl8/1uRo_sqA8mA/s1600/IMG_1299.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Dszmf0V9zys/VrxYpYCsF2I/AAAAAAAABl8/1uRo_sqA8mA/s320/IMG_1299.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Getting up at night to watch the lava lake bubble and dawn arrive. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
From a geological perspective, Virunga’s features are all very recent additions. 30 million years ago, pressure underneath the African continent caused by a series of plumes of magma forced it to bulge and effectively crack spreading southward from the Red Sea as far as Mozambique. As the rifting spread south, it reached a particularly resistant rock formation known as the Tanganyika Craton where it diverged into two arms forming what is now known as the Albertine (western) Rift and Gregory (eastern) Rift. It wasn’t until 12-13 million years ago that the first volcanoes began erupting in the Virunga region, although the 8 most prominent peaks are all younger than 2.5 million years old. Two of the 8 are still active to this day. The other six are no longer active and their forested slopes are home to some of the last remaining Mountain gorillas (Gorilla berengei berengei). These large and gentle primates complete the montage of charismatic African wildlife and complement the East African savannah experience.<br />
<br />
This short time lapse of Nyiragongo's lava lake in the morning shows its mesmerizing power.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dyjei80VU6JVe4LM1wlnHwB9_90w5ScG3yy4Y5mEcaSpJ8T82tBbRX7O3iofRJgdo3LtWjeyrOQpiL6dFfM' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
<br />
Critically Endangered, there is an estimated population of 480 individuals and growing found in the three national parks that encompass the Virunga Massif (Bwindi National Park in Uganda is also home to a population of about 300). The area that the Mountain gorillas occupy is a very small range of about 450 km2 in the montane and bamboo forests of the Virungas. At present there are 8 habituated gorilla groups in Virunga National Park.<br />
<br />
Below short video clip of a young gorilla.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dwGD_EubT8rWtbNJsbKPplyhh-dvdqPNaXmVkY9YUe7l9MnnmSx6JetGD1wJeqmt84NZVb0feJWorKJxuF5qw' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
<span style="font-size: x-small;">All of these photos and videos are on Instagram @tembomdogo and higher quality. </span>Ethan Kinseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16334652612139075633noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5867262107481263208.post-73193439521928700212015-12-17T17:07:00.001+03:002015-12-17T17:10:06.229+03:00Spring in Ruaha<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cvxJETfs45U/VnKzO-pVE4I/AAAAAAAABjI/pkgS_q_cRAI/s1600/IMG_1022.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cvxJETfs45U/VnKzO-pVE4I/AAAAAAAABjI/pkgS_q_cRAI/s320/IMG_1022.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Same baobab tree, 11 days apart, slightly different angle.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
Ruaha is just that far away that it doesn’t make it into enough of my safari itineraries. This year I was fortunate to have two back to back safaris in Ruaha, giving me two weeks in the park at one of the best times to be there. <br />
<br />
I’ve written about Ruaha in other articles about walking safaris or exploring the more remote areas of the park. However over these two weeks, most of the time I spent was in the core area- a triangle between the escarpment, Mdonya River, and Great Ruaha River. Being the end of the dry season, water had ceased to flow in the Ruaha and elephants, warthogs, zebra and baboon dug in the sand rivers to get at the cool water that flowed beneath the sand. The predators staked these points out, waiting in ambush, for whatever prey overcome by thirst would venture too close without a careful scan. <br />
<br />
Within a few days of me being there, the rains came. Big, violent thunderstorms that brought with them relief. Change was overnight. Areas that had been doused with water began the transformation into an emerald paradise. Fragile buds pushed through the soils crust, the tips of dead-grey branches began to bud, while other plants threw sprays of fragrant blossoms that filled the air with the scent of jasmine. <br />
<br />
The following images and videos were all taken with my phone (for more and better quality follow me on instagram @tembomdogo<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dwP18a89uGNb1LA99KWCHXPebos8A6qttLQAnQ1-ic7RssFDmFw3RGrZFFQZ-7b6uh3Lh0kba0mN5nlmo2nDg' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WNn_0QnxFiI/VnKzCGkvajI/AAAAAAAABiI/Avh-QhG1jaA/s1600/IMG_0812.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WNn_0QnxFiI/VnKzCGkvajI/AAAAAAAABiI/Avh-QhG1jaA/s320/IMG_0812.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A herd of impala resting in the shade. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0Kl3xTT1dyE/VnKzGSocupI/AAAAAAAABik/_yvoRxEO6Yk/s1600/IMG_0884.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0Kl3xTT1dyE/VnKzGSocupI/AAAAAAAABik/_yvoRxEO6Yk/s320/IMG_0884.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Combretum longispicatum </i>blossom.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lTLoY7C6v4o/VnKzI4xyk0I/AAAAAAAABiw/23gg3UXh8jM/s1600/IMG_0885.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lTLoY7C6v4o/VnKzI4xyk0I/AAAAAAAABiw/23gg3UXh8jM/s320/IMG_0885.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A delicate <i>Ribbon-wing lacewing</i> is our dinner guest.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TqlaDPi5LIQ/VnKzE9Ri8nI/AAAAAAAABig/Ma57KuBWmnY/s1600/IMG_0883.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TqlaDPi5LIQ/VnKzE9Ri8nI/AAAAAAAABig/Ma57KuBWmnY/s320/IMG_0883.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Magic.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D57Tp3Ve5Z8/VnKzI0mG8uI/AAAAAAAABis/eFXKkeoTB6w/s1600/IMG_0937.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D57Tp3Ve5Z8/VnKzI0mG8uI/AAAAAAAABis/eFXKkeoTB6w/s320/IMG_0937.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Scadoxus multiflorum </i>is a great Latin name for this Fireball lilly. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ueZ6f0PlqpI/VnK8mMF9IoI/AAAAAAAABkw/xlns5gYgBdk/s1600/IMG_1017.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ueZ6f0PlqpI/VnK8mMF9IoI/AAAAAAAABkw/xlns5gYgBdk/s320/IMG_1017.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The incredible light- what you can't see is the fragrance of jasmine that was drifting in the air from the blossoms of this bush.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gs-VuZDJZKk/VnLAwLyYijI/AAAAAAAABlQ/PLsgjCjI7T8/s1600/IMG_0882.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gs-VuZDJZKk/VnLAwLyYijI/AAAAAAAABlQ/PLsgjCjI7T8/s320/IMG_0882.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fresh growth on <i>Combretum apiculatum.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AlsjzTdGPiU/VnK8m0kfSbI/AAAAAAAABk4/E1VrSgUc1dE/s1600/IMG_1018.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AlsjzTdGPiU/VnK8m0kfSbI/AAAAAAAABk4/E1VrSgUc1dE/s320/IMG_1018.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Sesamothamnus </i>blossom- another fragrant beauty.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5_j9UNHnWJA/VnK_6hTIdjI/AAAAAAAABlE/uFQw7yiQUNI/s1600/IMG_0993.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5_j9UNHnWJA/VnK_6hTIdjI/AAAAAAAABlE/uFQw7yiQUNI/s320/IMG_0993.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lillies on a walk.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LwXK7ucP6-Y/VnKzMbVT9kI/AAAAAAAABi8/MUlvd7wsIn4/s1600/IMG_0991.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LwXK7ucP6-Y/VnKzMbVT9kI/AAAAAAAABi8/MUlvd7wsIn4/s320/IMG_0991.JPG" width="256" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">You have to get out and walk to find this baobab tree that is growing out of a rock!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3shUFIOpHfs/VnKzN4hzqFI/AAAAAAAABjE/JxGpekJmOAM/s1600/IMG_0992.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3shUFIOpHfs/VnKzN4hzqFI/AAAAAAAABjE/JxGpekJmOAM/s320/IMG_0992.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Never smile at a crocodile- unless you're a Ruaha lion that specializes in hunting crocodiles. </td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dy5ZhrcXB27AYiYnyKMR2NPUDSH9iPqyDkwFKSbkJZWYB0Kn7MflXlW_oSnoktuWkRvrELYZk-GcNwXrOUAyA' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
<br />Ethan Kinseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16334652612139075633noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5867262107481263208.post-66146033017631430212015-09-14T09:54:00.001+03:002015-09-14T09:56:30.952+03:00Empakai to NatronThe Empakai to Natron walk has been on my to-do list for many years: one of those things that is on your doorstep that you just never get out and do. When, Ake Lindstrom from <a href="http://www.summits-africa.com/" target="_blank">Summits-Africa</a>, Frank Castro from <a href="http://www.adventure-international.com/" target="_blank">Adventure International</a>, and <a href="https://www.youtube.com/user/gianms100" target="_blank">Gian Schachenmann</a>, Tanzania’s ultimate drone photographer, decided to do a trip to make a promotional film, I jumped at the chance to join as a recce as it is known in the safari world- an abbreviation of the word reconnoitre. I was amused being on the receiving end of an itinerary and getting the list of what to pack, and like most guests of mine, I disregarded the list and packed what I wanted to anyway, except that I did succumb to the advice of my wife to actually wear hiking boots.<br />
<br />
Not only was the hike through dramatic views, but it was also geologically fascinating. The hike started at Empakai Crater, a beautiful caldera that is about 7 km in diameter with a typical alkaline lake thats waters reflect the dark forested walls that rise up 980m from the crater floor, and whose shoreline is encrusted with the snow-white residue of the alkaline salts. The first campsite was on the rim of the crater in the montane forest. We woke in cloud, surrounded by beautiful Hygenias thats flowers hung like giant bunches of grapes and Giant St. John Wort bushes, a habitat I associated more with mountain gorillas.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MaqN02VVOKg/Ve6PrwbmX1I/AAAAAAAABfU/UhjPJ_PfIbM/s1600/IMG_0310.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MaqN02VVOKg/Ve6PrwbmX1I/AAAAAAAABfU/UhjPJ_PfIbM/s320/IMG_0310.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Empakai crater</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zkatp648cqQ/Ve6Psrh_mNI/AAAAAAAABfc/hNgM5ZHzdr4/s1600/IMG_0285.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zkatp648cqQ/Ve6Psrh_mNI/AAAAAAAABfc/hNgM5ZHzdr4/s320/IMG_0285.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crotalaria species on the descent path.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Descending from the 2500m altitude, we left the forest and entered the drier grasslands. It was the perfect trip to discuss the effect that water has on life. The fertile soils, refreshed with new ash from Oldonyo Lengai every couple of decades or so provide abundant grazing for the cattle, sheep and goats that the Maasai tend. The easily eroded light soil forms deep gullies running from the highlands and incredible canyons lower down. These porous soils drain water efficiently, therefore trees cannot establish themselves, yet as we descended we found ourselves in one of the canyons, surrounded by a beautiful yellow-fever acacia forest. It is initially a surprise as these trees dominate swamps, and this was no swamp. But it indicated water, and though we never saw it, there must be a high-enough moisture content in the soil for these trees to grow. This was the setting for our mid-way camp and that afternoon we climbed a steep knoll to look out across the view. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-K29Dca3V_Ic/Ve6PoZqlMoI/AAAAAAAABfM/TMSApPTFvL8/s1600/IMG_0308.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-K29Dca3V_Ic/Ve6PoZqlMoI/AAAAAAAABfM/TMSApPTFvL8/s320/IMG_0308.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Roadside flowers</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9bEP-UU7Ioo/VfZoAF_N8jI/AAAAAAAABhA/iltFLR3pTVw/s1600/IMG_0323.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9bEP-UU7Ioo/VfZoAF_N8jI/AAAAAAAABhA/iltFLR3pTVw/s320/IMG_0323.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://africageographic.com/blog/two-africas-unique-volcanoes/" target="_blank">Oldonyo Lengai</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
At this point in the walk, the rift valley wall, an uplifted
escarpment became more and more imposing, while Oldonyo Lengai, the
active volcano, stood out against the sky. In the distance, other
volcanoes rose out of the dust as if hanging in the sky: Kitumbeine to
the east, Shompole and Oldonyo Sambu to the north. The Masonik volcanoes
appeared tiny in the Angata Salei plains and if you squinted you could
see the Gol mountains to the west, where in 2007 & 2008, Gian and I
had watched Oldonyo Lengai send pyroclastic clouds 30 000 ft into the
sky.<br />
<br />
On the last day of the trek, we followed a well worn donkey trail used by Maasai who move between the weekly markets bringing corn from the highlands and taking back bricks of natron (Sodium bicarbonate) to mix with tobacco for snuff and to soften beans. We left the fever tree forest and as whatever moisture there was in the soil also disappeared, we found ourselves on a knife-edge ridge, devoid of vegetation except for a thick tussock like grass. One could imagine that this trail we followed had been used for transit for millennia between the fresh waters at Ngaresero on the shores of Lake Natron, and the crater highlands. After lunch in the shade of a ravine, we trekked the last couple of miles to the vehicles that were waiting. It was a quick drive to camp and we quickly settled into the natural pools with ice-cold beers, the sweat and dust washing off. Fish nibbled at our toes and we discussed the activities for the next day.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-R43EtyNHjM4/Ve6pT5fym7I/AAAAAAAABgU/D1Mv5KQGOWM/s1600/IMG_0360.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-R43EtyNHjM4/Ve6pT5fym7I/AAAAAAAABgU/D1Mv5KQGOWM/s640/IMG_0360.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The donkey path with the rift valley escarpment on the left and Oldonyo Lengai on the right.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wtb5Bj5lRTg/Ve6PvqJTWKI/AAAAAAAABfk/ZBFK8F2Lxbo/s1600/IMG_0369.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wtb5Bj5lRTg/Ve6PvqJTWKI/AAAAAAAABfk/ZBFK8F2Lxbo/s320/IMG_0369.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wildebeest skull at the bottom of the valley.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
One of the striking things about this area is how harsh and hostile it is. Windswept and barren mudflows, dry cracked pans, brittle volcanic outcrops, the caustic bicarbonate lake, and stark volcano not to mention wind and sun, yet there are oases where life flourishes. The mineral rich springs along the edges of the lake grow algae that feeds and provides shelter for abundant specialized fish and lesser flamingos. Invisible moisture supports Acacia tortilis woodlands that feed giraffe, and sheltered spots provide enough grazing for zebra, wildebeest, and Grant’s gazelle. One of the most beautiful oases is the clear water that flows out of the rift wall.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cKQBAmQDoVo/Ve6P9YQYHbI/AAAAAAAABf0/Pj2owzHntYE/s1600/IMG_0387.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cKQBAmQDoVo/Ve6P9YQYHbI/AAAAAAAABf0/Pj2owzHntYE/s320/IMG_0387.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dawn on the lake shore.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qqmkGMnzdnM/Ve6P8WlN7mI/AAAAAAAABfs/IVebMztq2JU/s1600/IMG_0375.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="138" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qqmkGMnzdnM/Ve6P8WlN7mI/AAAAAAAABfs/IVebMztq2JU/s640/IMG_0375.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lake Natron Panorama</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Vb1VGrIIRoU/VfZqxq8zQTI/AAAAAAAABhY/BYNzgp2IfVg/s1600/IMG_0486.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Vb1VGrIIRoU/VfZqxq8zQTI/AAAAAAAABhY/BYNzgp2IfVg/s320/IMG_0486.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The incredibly lush forest in an otherwise desert scrub environment.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tQwhehIT-1o/VfZq0vuRhNI/AAAAAAAABhg/eV0I8qROVxU/s1600/IMG_0434.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tQwhehIT-1o/VfZq0vuRhNI/AAAAAAAABhg/eV0I8qROVxU/s320/IMG_0434.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The incredible blossoms of the Desert Rose.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Having played in the waterfalls and clear waters toward the mouth of the gorge, I had never been to the source of the river and a small group of us decided to make the trek. It was very different walking in flip-flops and often barefoot as we scrambled up the boulders, jumping into pools and showering in the natural waterfalls along the way. In many ways it was paradise. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-exjAPPgkSwc/Ve6pEDSZ9SI/AAAAAAAABgM/Pcud6qXrN3A/s1600/IMG_0454.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-exjAPPgkSwc/Ve6pEDSZ9SI/AAAAAAAABgM/Pcud6qXrN3A/s320/IMG_0454.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://blogs.scientificamerican.com/observations/fossil-footprints-of-early-modern-humans-found-in-tanzania/" target="_blank"><i>Homo sapien</i></a> tracks preserved in the calcrete. New dating places them 11,000 years old. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Ethan Kinseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16334652612139075633noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5867262107481263208.post-69725226269423044162015-09-10T11:08:00.000+03:002015-09-10T11:11:43.863+03:00A Small Selection of iPhone Video Snippets from a Northern Tanzania Safari<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/5jEY3r5aJSA/0.jpg" frameborder="0" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/5jEY3r5aJSA?feature=player_embedded" width="320"></iframe></div>
A lot of people are surprised when I tell them that Spotted hyenas are actually very efficient hunters and actually scavenge an average of only a third of their prey in places like Serengeti. When they hunt, they are usually quite successful- especially when more than one hyena goes on the hunt. The statistic- 1 in 3 attempts if there are more than two hyenas. In this case, it was broad daylight and these hyenas took on this wildebeest in Ngorongoro Crater. After a significant chase they brought it down next to the road. 10 minutes later, more than 25 hyenas had arrived and all that was left was a bloody stain on the ground.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/ZSRgUWsMia0/0.jpg" frameborder="0" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ZSRgUWsMia0?feature=player_embedded" width="320"></iframe></div>
I caught this little clip of this beautiful male lion walking across the Serengeti plains very close to the Kenyan border. Lions spend so much time sleeping during the day that it is fun to just see them actually moving. With the wildebeest migration moving through the area, his pride was looking well fed. Watching such a perfect specimen is so rewarding- and knowing that he is safe deep at the heart of this massive National Park.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/t9uBLCRhZao/0.jpg" frameborder="0" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/t9uBLCRhZao?feature=player_embedded" width="320"></iframe></div>
During the dry season June through October, the 1.5 million wildebeest in the Serengeti ecosystem head north into an area of the ecosystem that receives a much higher rainfall throughout the year than the more fertile soils in southern Serengeti. It’s during this period that the famous wildebeest crossings happen. This video shows them coming from the northern side of the river to the south. Their movements are based on local localized rainfall so it is difficult to predict. After a very successful full morning of game driving we decided make one pass along the river before heading back to camp, when we found this mass of wildebeest standing on the edge of the river. After uhming and aahing over whether to jump or not, they actually turned back, but were met by another group heading towards the river. Joining forces they finally stepped into the water and the crossing frenzy began.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/P9sI97u1GSw/0.jpg" frameborder="0" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/P9sI97u1GSw?feature=player_embedded" width="320"></iframe></div>
<br />
This cheetah mother was very attentive while her cubs fed from a gazelle she had just killed. Cheetahs in general have a hard time raising cubs. Cheetah cubs are born hidden in “dens” and are fairly helpless. They are tiny and that first 4 months of their life are easily killed by lions and hyenas- 89% of cubs die during that time. Only 4-6% survive the first year- but what is quite intriguing is that success is not equally distributed among the females. Over half of female cheetahs in Serengeti never manage to raise a single cub to independence, while there are a few “super-moms” who manage to successfully raise litter after litter.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2I4kWaXoc24/VfE4hNguJyI/AAAAAAAABgk/8X3V9u5m-RE/s1600/IMG_0169.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2I4kWaXoc24/VfE4hNguJyI/AAAAAAAABgk/8X3V9u5m-RE/s320/IMG_0169.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
This last one is not a video- but an image. No safari would be complete without spending time with elephants. it is always so encouraging and reassuring to see baby elephants. Serengeti National Park is the only park in Tanzania that has seen a rise in the population of elephants. No one is sure whether this is because of reproduction or whether human pressures like poaching outside the park are driving the elephants into it. Grumeti Reserves, a former hunting concession has invested in efficient anti-poaching so hopefully these elephants are safe- unless they decide to wander back onto village lands.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://instagram.com/tembomdogo/" target="_blank">Follow me on Instagram!</a>Ethan Kinseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16334652612139075633noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5867262107481263208.post-82919291458872255202014-12-24T16:50:00.002+03:002014-12-24T16:52:58.878+03:00Beyond Ruaha's Charismatic Wildlife<div style="text-align: center;">
An exploratory guide's-only trip.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-p1r0_A0sTH4/VJq5pOxDqnI/AAAAAAAABbk/bdFmWVhfXeg/s1600/DSC_4060.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-p1r0_A0sTH4/VJq5pOxDqnI/AAAAAAAABbk/bdFmWVhfXeg/s1600/DSC_4060.JPG" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Greater kudu- a flagship Ruaha species.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
There’s a triangle in Ruaha National Park, bordered on the
south side by the Mdonya river, the escarpment running north east, and on the
east to south side by a section of the Ruaha River’s floodplain. Through the
middle runs a sand river, the Mwagusi, creating an incredible area for the
charismatic wildlife that gives East Africa its reputation. Like many places in
East Africa, water is the limiting resource that determines wildlife abundance,
and the Ruaha, Mwagusi and Mdonya Rivers provide just that- permanent (though
not always obvious) water for herds of hundreds of buffalo, elephants, giraffe,
zebra, impala, yellow baboons, and their predators: lions, leopards and
cheetah. But it is a relatively small area in Ruaha’s extensive landscape.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Our first stop was a campsite on the Mdonya River. It was
the end of the dry season, so water was limited to a few places where elephants
knew to dig. We’d just driven 15 hours straight from Arusha, but were sighing
in relief as the familiar sounds of the African bush comforted our souls. None
of us bothered with the rain flies for our tents and went to sleep to the sound
of the African scops owl. Lions roared as the walked by at about 4 a.m. but it
wasn’t until the ring-necked doves started their morning call to work that Tom,
our camp assistant, woke up to stoke the fire and get the coffee going. </div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-D9cEWSt3L6U/VJq5eB0z7OI/AAAAAAAABbc/m_YNh8v3kwY/s1600/IMG_4359.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-D9cEWSt3L6U/VJq5eB0z7OI/AAAAAAAABbc/m_YNh8v3kwY/s1600/IMG_4359.JPG" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our first campsite under a Lebombo wattle (Newtonia hildebrantii).</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Day 1. </b>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Our first order of the day was a meeting with the tourism
warden and a couple of rangers to discuss our expedition. Some recently opened
roads were making access into some of the least visited areas of the park
possible and we wanted to know if they would work for walking safaris. For many
of us, walking is a way of experiencing a quieter side of nature and escaping
from the diesel-engine-run game drives and trappings of luxury camping. Waking
up to a thermos of coffee and going to bed after a sipping whiskey by the fire
were all the luxury we needed; it was about the wilderness. </div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JfOi_MUJ-34/VJq5zeZbHmI/AAAAAAAABb8/yiosFEfJSpc/s1600/IMG_4518.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JfOi_MUJ-34/VJq5zeZbHmI/AAAAAAAABb8/yiosFEfJSpc/s1600/IMG_4518.jpg" height="280" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The magical triangle in Ruaha- see map below for context.<b><br /></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
As we left the magic triangle we climbed up into the hills
behind the escarpment and were rewarded immediately by a racquet-tailed roller
who fluttered along side. “Lifers” were being added to the list and for most
guides with passion like us, that is one of the most exciting things. The next
lifer for a few of us, only a few minutes later, was a herd of Sable antelope:
one of the most beautiful of all antelopes, and particularly exciting as they
are miombo woodland specialists. The miombo woodland was also changing in
anticipation of the rains, and with colors that would compete with a Vermont autumn.
Vivid reds, purples, blue-greens, light greens; it was beautiful.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MEQTqR3aC6E/VJq52O22EyI/AAAAAAAABcE/1NCjH4BlVrc/s1600/IMG_4522.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MEQTqR3aC6E/VJq52O22EyI/AAAAAAAABcE/1NCjH4BlVrc/s1600/IMG_4522.jpg" height="400" width="315" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
With 7 of us in the vehicle, food for 8 days, camping
equipment, and our libraries, water was our biggest challenge. The 90 litres we
could carry required us to take every opportunity we could to refill, and
determined our campsites over the next few days. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We arrived at the first campsite as the evening light became
intense and vibrant and what unfolded became the schedule for the next week: unload,
set up tents, collect firewood and light fire, unpack and prep dinner, carry
the basin to the stream to bathe and then sip on a cold beer, reclining on
thermarests, binoculars on chests, and reference books open. We didn’t need to
meditate or even think about focusing on the moment; it just was, pure, the
product of a love of wilderness and like-mindedness. Sleep came quickly, as it
does in the bush. </div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MySqp4JuK-Q/VJrB_gSKrxI/AAAAAAAABdA/fL1_-wnaKZU/s1600/DSC_3928.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MySqp4JuK-Q/VJrB_gSKrxI/AAAAAAAABdA/fL1_-wnaKZU/s1600/DSC_3928.JPG" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Racket-tailed rollers.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Day 2</b>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
As the night sky began to change, the fire was stoked and
coffee water boiled. Each of us woke to our own beat, grabbed a cup of coffee
and the first moments of the day were appreciated in respectful quiet. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
With heavy rainstorms imminent we followed Thad’s suggestion
and headed to the furthest point we wanted to reach. The grass got greener and
longer as we drove around the Kimbi Mountains. We saw more game that day: sable,
zebra, giraffe, warthog, Lichtenstein’s hartebeest and even some lions. However,
to say that wildlife was prolific would be very misleading. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N67dR8RxI2c/VJq5ORAT0bI/AAAAAAAABbM/AVPyGpKd-fQ/s1600/DSC_3966.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N67dR8RxI2c/VJq5ORAT0bI/AAAAAAAABbM/AVPyGpKd-fQ/s1600/DSC_3966.JPG" height="320" width="319" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lichtenstein's hartebeest- a miombo speciality. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
On maps, the Mzombe-roundabout appears to be the headwaters
of the river. It is also on the border of the park; in essence, the end of the
road. The grader driver literally created a cul-de-sac roundabout. In the past,
the Petersons had walked the Mzombe River further downstream before trophy
hunting and administration in the bordering Rungwe Game Reserve had become so
profit-oriented that they stopped respecting the buffer to the park and hunted
right to the edge. Yet, the Petersons’ stories of encounters with lions,
elephants, hippos and more had left an impression of this river, one that was
not fulfilled at the headwaters. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NL2cKGLPoUA/VJq_OrajWHI/AAAAAAAABcU/lDorInx2-Nc/s1600/IMG_4362.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NL2cKGLPoUA/VJq_OrajWHI/AAAAAAAABcU/lDorInx2-Nc/s1600/IMG_4362.JPG" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Incredible flowers.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3PveHpnsRto/VJq_RmudBZI/AAAAAAAABcg/ughg-6sRgMc/s1600/IMG_4364.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3PveHpnsRto/VJq_RmudBZI/AAAAAAAABcg/ughg-6sRgMc/s1600/IMG_4364.JPG" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A natural bouquet. Nature does it better.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DM_10XoOz90/VJq_RETGgSI/AAAAAAAABcc/4NAEaV7vtyg/s1600/IMG_4365.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DM_10XoOz90/VJq_RETGgSI/AAAAAAAABcc/4NAEaV7vtyg/s1600/IMG_4365.JPG" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Delicate Orchids- Eulophia coculata.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Instead it was incredibly green, and the hills
invited walking. It had obviously rained enough to bring out the wildflowers
and on the walk the next day in addition to wonderful birds like thick-billed cuckoos,
spotted creepers, and yellow-bellied hyliotas, we admired the proliferation of
flowers. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Day 3</b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Having walked for 7 hours in the morning, we returned to
camp for lunch. The clouds were building and we had already been dumped on
while walking. We packed up camp, and made our way back around the mountain. Our
third camp was at the base of the mountains in a small clearing. Purple crested
turaccos hopped around in the trees and as darkness fell, barred-owlets, tiny
little owls, began calling.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UTYq2MJlJkE/VJq5sY3QyLI/AAAAAAAABbs/xFRf_0H7syg/s1600/IMG_4369.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UTYq2MJlJkE/VJq5sY3QyLI/AAAAAAAABbs/xFRf_0H7syg/s1600/IMG_4369.JPG" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Water re-filling break under a Faidherbia albida.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Day 4</b>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The next morning we set off early, and were fortunate to
quickly find a proper elephant trail leading up into the hills. Elephants are
big animals and just naturally take the best route. The switchbacks were there
when we needed them and the path that wound its way up around rocks and to the
top of the hills made it a real pleasure to climb the hill. A rocky outcrop
distracted us as we paused for peanuts, homemade cookies and water. More new
birds made our list but a particular highlight was 2 sightings of Chequered
elephant-shrew.
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-n4voKMVHdLs/VJq5yKD_J_I/AAAAAAAABb0/E4_CYk7t1og/s1600/IMG_4443.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-n4voKMVHdLs/VJq5yKD_J_I/AAAAAAAABb0/E4_CYk7t1og/s1600/IMG_4443.JPG" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photographs cannot capture the extensiveness of this wilderness.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We returned to camp at around 3, exhilarated by the climb.
Lunch was quick and we headed off to a clearing we had passed a couple of days
before that we believed we could drive down to get to a river known as the Lupati,
a tributary of the Mzombe. We barely made it half a kilometre when the woodland
became too thick to drive through. Small drainages were converging and a couple
of times we ran into dead-ends. We did have good sightings of Roan antelope and
that evening as we watched nightjars hawk the sky, we heard our first
elephants.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xur3jjJ22_A/VJrBgJSMfpI/AAAAAAAABc4/HTv-YIavZyg/s1600/IMG_4445.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xur3jjJ22_A/VJrBgJSMfpI/AAAAAAAABc4/HTv-YIavZyg/s1600/IMG_4445.JPG" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just a lunchtime chill. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Day 5</b>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
Spectacular storm build-ups warned us that we should
probably head back to the Ruaha River, so after our usual breakfast we took a
shorter walk before proceeding to head towards Usangu. We entered the new
addition to the national park and drove and drove. It was a long day of
driving, but the landscape kept changing as we pushed on. It was not until we
made it into the lower areas that we began to see more wildlife, particularly
giraffe and impala. There was evidence of game and in one clearing we had great
sighting of sable, roan, and bush pigs foraging in daylight. Scuff marks and
tracks in the road told a story of Africa wilddogs killing a warthog.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ms-9QspMVfE/VJq5NKPe2tI/AAAAAAAABbE/OCT-4J9V1OI/s1600/DSC_4007.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ms-9QspMVfE/VJq5NKPe2tI/AAAAAAAABbE/OCT-4J9V1OI/s1600/DSC_4007.JPG" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Roan antelope- another Ruaha speciality. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We arrived in camp as it was getting dark. Camp was on the
river, just meters from a pool with over thirty hippos in it. We quickly set up
camp before settling down on the riverbank to watch the birds fly by and hippos
grunt their disapproval of their new neighbors. As darkness set in, we scanned
the water for crocodile eyes- 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 pairs of eyes watching us.
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Day 6</b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The sun had not come up yet, but the sky was changing. Coffee
cups in one hand, binoculars ready to train on birds flying by, we sat and
watched. This was really a grand finale for us. It was a slightly slow start
but this was the area we would most likely come to walk next year and I wanted
to explore. We set off for a couple of hours and then returned to take the
vehicle. There were campsites we needed to examine and stretches of river to
see. The roads had not been graded as they had the previous days, and the going
was tough enough that my vehicle is being repainted as we speak. A stump wrote
off a tire, but those are the costs of adventure.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xuqAPEo7XoQ/VJq5U83AjlI/AAAAAAAABbU/FIxT-j0oCcw/s1600/DSC_4027.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xuqAPEo7XoQ/VJq5U83AjlI/AAAAAAAABbU/FIxT-j0oCcw/s1600/DSC_4027.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pel's fishing owl. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Day 7</b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It was the usual morning routine, but as we sipped our
coffee and contemplated the view, we knew we were leaving today. We took down
our tents and then took a quick walk along the river before climbing back into the
vehicle for the ride home.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HSxq1kzFxRY/VJrAwzt7xcI/AAAAAAAABcw/ROfs8uc95kU/s1600/IMG_4442.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HSxq1kzFxRY/VJrAwzt7xcI/AAAAAAAABcw/ROfs8uc95kU/s1600/IMG_4442.JPG" height="320" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">To book an adventure in Ruaha contact <a href="mailto:ethan@ethan-kinsey.com" target="_blank">me</a> or <a href="mailto:thad@dorobo.co.tz" target="_blank">Thad</a>.</span></div>
Ethan Kinseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16334652612139075633noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5867262107481263208.post-71879159081596994072014-11-07T11:55:00.001+03:002014-11-07T13:42:05.386+03:00Volcanoes, Wildlife & Adventure<style>
<!--
/* Font Definitions */
@font-face
{font-family:Cambria;
panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:3 0 0 0 1 0;}
/* Style Definitions */
p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal
{mso-style-parent:"";
margin:0cm;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:Cambria;
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;}
@page Section1
{size:612.0pt 792.0pt;
margin:72.0pt 90.0pt 72.0pt 90.0pt;
mso-header-margin:36.0pt;
mso-footer-margin:36.0pt;
mso-paper-source:0;}
div.Section1
{page:Section1;}
</style>
-->
<div class="MsoNormal">
Standing at 3,470m above sea level staring at the world’s
largest lava lake makes you feel quite insignificant. It was cold at 4 a.m. and
the precipice we were standing on kept us present, but the lava lake itself was
mesmerizing We could feel the heat, generated in the depths of the Earth, the
deep orange-red lava expressing itself vehemently, sometimes as explosive
fountains and sometimes a moving kaliedescope of constantly shifting black
plates. Occasionally the crater would fill with smoke and steam and all you
could sense was the sound of the incredible deep rumble of the cauldron.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AKqfUe0JS4U/VFyCp4htLOI/AAAAAAAABX8/tbkk32gjH_U/s1600/DSC_3764.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AKqfUe0JS4U/VFyCp4htLOI/AAAAAAAABX8/tbkk32gjH_U/s1600/DSC_3764.JPG" height="231" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nyiragongo, Democratic Republic of Congo</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Standing at the top of Nyiragongo was one of the highlights
of a sixteen-day safari that included two mountain summits and a combination of
wildlife experiences. We began the safari by summiting Mt Meru, Africa’s 5<sup>th</sup>
highest mountain (4568m asl). Climbing through the rich forest, through the
heath and moorland vegetation zone, and finally onto the alpine desert gave us
opportunities to enjoy a variety of beautiful birds including tacazze sunbirds,
bar-tailed trogons, and silvery-cheeked hornbills.
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-g_zIn1_GqTU/VFyCzlbVbnI/AAAAAAAABYU/0dLlwijcOD8/s1600/IMG_4016.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-g_zIn1_GqTU/VFyCzlbVbnI/AAAAAAAABYU/0dLlwijcOD8/s1600/IMG_4016.JPG" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A view of the ash cone in the right bottom corner and Little Meru.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-L-YjPIqaCQc/VFyCcAoSifI/AAAAAAAABXw/2my78o1NniE/s1600/IMG_3960.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-L-YjPIqaCQc/VFyCcAoSifI/AAAAAAAABXw/2my78o1NniE/s1600/IMG_3960.JPG" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An enchanted forest full of birds.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eDPa-oypTA4/VFyCbbmV5oI/AAAAAAAABXs/JwfnioNDJAw/s1600/IMG_3958.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eDPa-oypTA4/VFyCbbmV5oI/AAAAAAAABXs/JwfnioNDJAw/s1600/IMG_3958.JPG" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Incredible natural patterns.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vjqRFbqx48U/VFyHKzWYkjI/AAAAAAAABaQ/xTUYNI-PsE4/s1600/IMG_4018.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vjqRFbqx48U/VFyHKzWYkjI/AAAAAAAABaQ/xTUYNI-PsE4/s1600/IMG_4018.JPG" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The inner walls of the crater. Mt. Meru was once 5200m high, until the crater collapsed like Mt. St. Helens, in an explosion that was 10 times the magnitude of Mt. St. Helens.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Next up was Tarangire National Park. Tarangire is a classic
African savannah complete with red soil, gigantic baobabs, and wildlife
concentrations around water. We camped in the thick of it, close enough to a
water-hole that we could hear elephants drinking, the water gurgling as it poured
down their throats. We could smell the buffalo when they came down to drink,
and when the lions roared we instinctively held our breath. Tarangire is also special
because a tiny extension of the Somali Maasai Biome brings specialties like
lesser kudu, fringe-eared oryx, and gerenuk. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2ubX0wRvkRE/VFyCw-atwOI/AAAAAAAABYM/A_B6gPM6yPM/s1600/IMG_4013.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2ubX0wRvkRE/VFyCw-atwOI/AAAAAAAABYM/A_B6gPM6yPM/s1600/IMG_4013.JPG" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The small fascinating stuff on a walk.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-U2PVeSXh6OE/VFyC8MuEPAI/AAAAAAAABYk/fmkg-oes1hA/s1600/IMG_4046.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-U2PVeSXh6OE/VFyC8MuEPAI/AAAAAAAABYk/fmkg-oes1hA/s1600/IMG_4046.JPG" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A lion track.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Our next destination was the Democratic Republic of Congo.
To get there, we had to fly to Rwanda, stay a night in Kigali, and then drive
three hours to the Gisenyi-Goma border crossing. The process hasn’t changed
much since 2011 (<a href="http://www.ethan-kinsey.blogspot.com/2011/11/congo-i-journey-to-congo.html" target="_blank">read about it here</a>), but by lunchtime we had arrived at Mikeno
Lodge. Mikeno was our base for the next couple days, and the morning after
arrival we drove up to Bukima Tented Camp to trek for gorillas. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QtIPUgH7vGY/VFyDJMXDIRI/AAAAAAAABZE/xLQSvfQEue0/s1600/IMG_4219.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QtIPUgH7vGY/VFyDJMXDIRI/AAAAAAAABZE/xLQSvfQEue0/s1600/IMG_4219.JPG" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A playful gorilla.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fEOybAgfPlc/VFyC4i7BGGI/AAAAAAAABYc/9wpGyMlnwMA/s1600/IMG_4136.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fEOybAgfPlc/VFyC4i7BGGI/AAAAAAAABYc/9wpGyMlnwMA/s1600/IMG_4136.JPG" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A sniffer dog used to catch poachers.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
As you know, I place a lot of emphasis on experiences when I
design safaris, often more than the level of luxury or comfort. For this
reason, visiting Congo is exciting because that is what it is about. <a href="http://visitvirunga.org/accommodations/" target="_blank">Mikeno Lodge</a> and the new <a href="http://visitvirunga.org/accommodations/" target="_blank">Bukima Tented Camp</a> are very comfortable, but more importantly
they are well situated for the experience. Gorillas are known to wander through
the camp, and recently a group of chimpanzee moved into the forest around the
lodge. Strolling around the lodge you can see beautiful colobus monkeys, blue
monkeys, l’hoest’s monkeys if you’re lucky, and, if you get up early and head
of with the trackers, chimp viewing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The operational headquarters of the national park are also next to the
lodge so you can get insight into conservation including a visit to the gorilla
orphanage or the tracker-dog kennel. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The gorilla trekking rules in Congo are also slightly
different to Rwanda and Uganda. A mask is essential to prevent transfer of
disease from us to the gorillas, and the number of visitors allowed to a group
is smaller. The authorities are also flexible and should you wish, you could
actually trek to see two gorilla families in one day.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
After completing our two gorilla treks, we returned to
Mikeno Lodge to prepare for our Nyiragongo ascent.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The <a href="http://visitvirunga.org/" target="_blank">ICCN</a>, who places the safety of tourists paramount, had
only opened the volcano to visitors a few days before. We would have been the
first visitors up the volcano had a small group of UN peacekeepers based in
Goma not jumped at the chance a couple days before us. Like Mt. Meru, the climb
takes you through rainforest and a heath and moorland zone. It is beautiful,
but also steep. At least half of the climb is on the very uneven exposed
surface of the lava flow of 2002. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FmXiFCu3X60/VFyDIYXFXRI/AAAAAAAABY4/nH1sc9yUZVs/s1600/IMG_4213.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FmXiFCu3X60/VFyDIYXFXRI/AAAAAAAABY4/nH1sc9yUZVs/s1600/IMG_4213.JPG" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Incredible plants.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yHJBraAgots/VFyDEOOG9jI/AAAAAAAABYs/9BpPhevjNq0/s1600/IMG_4207.mov" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yHJBraAgots/VFyDEOOG9jI/AAAAAAAABYs/9BpPhevjNq0/s1600/IMG_4207.mov" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The lava lake at 4 a.m. Nyiragongo.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lmadgdf2ZWA/VFyDRkPnTlI/AAAAAAAABZM/ntl0wJi8TMQ/s1600/IMG_4225.mov" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lmadgdf2ZWA/VFyDRkPnTlI/AAAAAAAABZM/ntl0wJi8TMQ/s1600/IMG_4225.mov" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The lava lake at 5 p.m. Nyiragongo.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We returned to Kigali exhilarated by the climb and tired
from the lack of sleep. The next morning, we headed to Rubondo Island in Lake
Victoria for a night. We should have included two nights on this beautiful
island, but I wanted to spend a good three days in northern Serengeti rounding
off the safari. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-89XqOh1W1FE/VFyDvHwlJII/AAAAAAAABZw/hoB8CU7qEE4/s1600/IMG_4257.mov" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-89XqOh1W1FE/VFyDvHwlJII/AAAAAAAABZw/hoB8CU7qEE4/s1600/IMG_4257.mov" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Elephants in Serengeti.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I had hoped to catch the tail end of the wildebeest
migration as they headed south, but their early exodus had also drawn with it
the multitude of camps and tourist vehicles leaving us virtually alone. As
usual, the wildlife viewing was incredible: the cats including a mother cheetah
with her four cubs who we watched hunt an oribi for dinner, lions and lion
cubs, and to put the icing on the cake, a black rhino strolling across the plains
as we spent our last morning before the return flight to Arusha. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VFumRZ-PuDk/VFyDoJcfAKI/AAAAAAAABZg/R_sulltnRvU/s1600/IMG_4243.mov" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VFumRZ-PuDk/VFyDoJcfAKI/AAAAAAAABZg/R_sulltnRvU/s1600/IMG_4243.mov" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cheetah cubs enjoying an Oribi. Serengeti National Park.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
Organize a multi-country safari including a trip to Congo through <a href="http://www.inspired-journeys.com/" target="_blank">www.inspired-journeys.com</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Ethan Kinseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16334652612139075633noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5867262107481263208.post-64374732507323739662014-09-26T08:17:00.001+03:002014-11-07T13:43:12.106+03:00Flying on Safari<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jFNewmZVoAw/VCThBvHs7vI/AAAAAAAABV8/iTh8FjyoD3M/s1600/IMG_3453.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><style><!--
/* Font Definitions */
@font-face
{font-family:Cambria;
panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:3 0 0 0 1 0;}
/* Style Definitions */
p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal
{mso-style-parent:"";
margin:0cm;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:Cambria;
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;}
@page Section1
{size:612.0pt 792.0pt;
margin:72.0pt 90.0pt 72.0pt 90.0pt;
mso-header-margin:36.0pt;
mso-footer-margin:36.0pt;
mso-paper-source:0;}
div.Section1
{page:Section</style></a>I remember the first time I managed to launch off a hill,
suspended by a paraglider, tense and terrified. An Auger buzzard took off from
a tree below me, soaring the same uplift I was on. Effortlessly, it turned,
riding the wind while I continued to tense my body as I flew straight, my goal
just to land.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<style>
<!--
/* Font Definitions */
@font-face
{font-family:Cambria;
panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:3 0 0 0 1 0;}
/* Style Definitions */
p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal
{mso-style-parent:"";
margin:0cm;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:Cambria;
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;}
@page Section1
{size:612.0pt 792.0pt;
margin:72.0pt 90.0pt 72.0pt 90.0pt;
mso-header-margin:36.0pt;
mso-footer-margin:36.0pt;
mso-paper-source:0;}
div.Section1
{page:Section1;}
</style>
</div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
I love flight, especially low-level flight. I’m not a pilot,
but the different perspective, looking down at the ground from above, or
looking eye-level at a cliff or mountain fascinates me. Over the last few
months of safari, I’ve flown in helicopters, balloons, Cessnas, Boeings, and
even a private jet. While the larger planes aren’t as much fun, here are a few
images taken from the smaller flight vessels. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
My first balloon flight was in June this year in northern
Serengeti. A steady wind was blowing and I was a bit bewildered but equally
excited as we lay on our backs, the loud fans blowing air into the balloon and
burners roaring. The balloon filled and lifted, pulling the basket
upright, the force of the wind jerking and tugging. Suddenly we lifted, and for
a few seconds it was silent as we rose up leaving behind a frantic crew as they
prepared the chase vehicles. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jFNewmZVoAw/VCThBvHs7vI/AAAAAAAABV8/iTh8FjyoD3M/s1600/IMG_3453.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nB0dEpjpWkk/VCTp8aliVNI/AAAAAAAABWk/_b3i5TKc_LM/s1600/IMG_2893.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nB0dEpjpWkk/VCTp8aliVNI/AAAAAAAABWk/_b3i5TKc_LM/s1600/IMG_2893.JPG" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The fans blowing air into the balloon.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lOpC8CIkJJ4/VCTpQyCyt-I/AAAAAAAABWU/TWSm4DLsyRs/s1600/IMG_2868.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lOpC8CIkJJ4/VCTpQyCyt-I/AAAAAAAABWU/TWSm4DLsyRs/s1600/IMG_2868.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The burners on full-power creating the hot air that will lift the balloon. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QqjLP_44Cyc/VCTpWp4kpMI/AAAAAAAABWc/1aOVmeiniL4/s1600/IMG_2891.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QqjLP_44Cyc/VCTpWp4kpMI/AAAAAAAABWc/1aOVmeiniL4/s1600/IMG_2891.JPG" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The views are incredible.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--A3h3ixo8Ow/VCThAkdTl3I/AAAAAAAABU4/J6L_EWWncts/s1600/IMG_2894.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--A3h3ixo8Ow/VCThAkdTl3I/AAAAAAAABU4/J6L_EWWncts/s1600/IMG_2894.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wind= bumpy landing. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The balloon experience in Namibia was very different. <span style="font-family: Cambria; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Cambria; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">We arrived at the balloon launch site, the balloons being filled. There
was hardly a breeze, and the pilot uprighted the basket and balloon before we
climbed in. Silently we began to rise. The colors in the desert as the sun rose
were incredible, the hues of blue, orange, pink, and grey so soft. </span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VgQI9ZZ7PzE/VCTrHK3KvSI/AAAAAAAABWw/9o7Ly2WedH0/s1600/IMG_3452.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VgQI9ZZ7PzE/VCTrHK3KvSI/AAAAAAAABWw/9o7Ly2WedH0/s1600/IMG_3452.JPG" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><style>
<!--
/* Font Definitions */
@font-face
{font-family:Cambria;
panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:3 0 0 0 1 0;}
/* Style Definitions */
p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal
{mso-style-parent:"";
margin:0cm;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:Cambria;
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;}
@page Section1
{size:612.0pt 792.0pt;
margin:72.0pt 90.0pt 72.0pt 90.0pt;
mso-header-margin:36.0pt;
mso-footer-margin:36.0pt;
mso-paper-source:0;}
div.Section1
{page:Section1;}
</style> </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
--><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jFNewmZVoAw/VCThBvHs7vI/AAAAAAAABV8/iTh8FjyoD3M/s1600/IMG_3453.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jFNewmZVoAw/VCThBvHs7vI/AAAAAAAABV8/iTh8FjyoD3M/s1600/IMG_3453.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qR5xyFkO-IU/VCThBuKDWwI/AAAAAAAABVI/3GondjeiGlc/s1600/IMG_3454.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qR5xyFkO-IU/VCThBuKDWwI/AAAAAAAABVI/3GondjeiGlc/s1600/IMG_3454.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></div>
<style>
<!--
/* Font Definitions */
@font-face
{font-family:Cambria;
panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:3 0 0 0 1 0;}
/* Style Definitions */
p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal
{mso-style-parent:"";
margin:0cm;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:Cambria;
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;}
@page Section1
{size:612.0pt 792.0pt;
margin:72.0pt 90.0pt 72.0pt 90.0pt;
mso-header-margin:36.0pt;
mso-footer-margin:36.0pt;
mso-paper-source:0;}
div.Section1
{page:Section1;}
</style>
-->
<span style="font-family: Cambria; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Cambria; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">The landing was different too, made easier by the lack of wind, and I
was impressed by the conscientiousness to the fragility of the desert. The
pick-up pulling the trailer stayed on the road as the pilot communicated our
location. By throwing a piece of webbing that the crew grabbed, they were able
to bring the basket down directly onto the trailer.</span>
<br />
We will occasionally charter a plane. Not only does it maximizes time spent on the ground by allowing us to create our own schedule, but we can ask the pilots to detour or fly low. I took the following photos from the Cessna caravan en-route to Serengeti and then Rubondo Island. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oiUbLCnvk98/VCThAikOlSI/AAAAAAAABU0/GwVaBzbctrs/s1600/IMG_3232.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oiUbLCnvk98/VCThAikOlSI/AAAAAAAABU0/GwVaBzbctrs/s1600/IMG_3232.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Oldonyo Lengai is an active volcano. Read about climbing it <a href="http://ethan-kinsey.blogspot.com/2012/08/wilderness-walking-oldonyo-lengai-and.html" target="_blank">here.</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-u2EaLgTTD-s/VCJiD_cI9hI/AAAAAAAABT8/9Yt6lZEFZLk/s1600/IMG_3269.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-u2EaLgTTD-s/VCJiD_cI9hI/AAAAAAAABT8/9Yt6lZEFZLk/s1600/IMG_3269.JPG" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wildebeest and migration trails on the Lamai Wedge in northern Serengeti. (August 2014).<br />
<br />
<br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EPvAapeHU9M/VCThDS6KGNI/AAAAAAAABVk/6ZhwoNoZzoY/s1600/IMG_3679.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EPvAapeHU9M/VCThDS6KGNI/AAAAAAAABVk/6ZhwoNoZzoY/s1600/IMG_3679.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As you approach Rubondo Island, the intensity of green stands out. Read about Rubondo <a href="http://ethan-kinsey.blogspot.com/2014/01/rubondo-island.html" target="_blank">here.</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-W-O3E0-S5vo/VCThBU-eMQI/AAAAAAAABVA/mIyucc2v3Uo/s1600/IMG_3301.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-W-O3E0-S5vo/VCThBU-eMQI/AAAAAAAABVA/mIyucc2v3Uo/s1600/IMG_3301.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flying across the western border of Serengeti National Park. Population pressures are growing.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a href="http://ethan-kinsey.blogspot.com/2011/08/turkana-by-helicopter-serengeti-by.html" target="_blank">My first experience with helicopters</a> was guiding in northern Kenya on a safari organized by <a href="http://www.charlesbabaultsafaris.com/" target="_blank">Charlie Babault.</a> This year I saw Victoria falls and flew over Rwanda in a helicopter. The ability to hover, the ability to fly through valleys, and the ability to fly slowly allow extra appreciation of the different perspective of being in the air. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ig_ULX7di_k/VCThCmPhagI/AAAAAAAABVY/GEwSjVdLFsc/s1600/IMG_3554.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ig_ULX7di_k/VCThCmPhagI/AAAAAAAABVY/GEwSjVdLFsc/s1600/IMG_3554.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mosi o-tunya, Zambia.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
In Rwanda, we saved time and got a birds-eye view of intense small-holder agriculture, and a dense population. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-141iD3A-oXA/VCThCRRHlJI/AAAAAAAABVQ/L8Oz1qdj4vE/s1600/IMG_3516.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-141iD3A-oXA/VCThCRRHlJI/AAAAAAAABVQ/L8Oz1qdj4vE/s1600/IMG_3516.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leaving Kigali at sunrise.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-v2JV7TNiyjU/VCThC_GKP4I/AAAAAAAABVc/YwvFEQnkQOo/s1600/IMG_3556.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-v2JV7TNiyjU/VCThC_GKP4I/AAAAAAAABVc/YwvFEQnkQOo/s1600/IMG_3556.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Like a patch-work.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NjADHAMBHrg/VCThB0NO4SI/AAAAAAAABVM/OhSCJfRizvw/s1600/IMG_3513.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NjADHAMBHrg/VCThB0NO4SI/AAAAAAAABVM/OhSCJfRizvw/s1600/IMG_3513.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A 3hr car ride became a 20 minute helicopter ride.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WeK0z_Oi9C8/VCTyM2SyfUI/AAAAAAAABXM/VebQ0L2OxKM/s1600/IMG_3514.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WeK0z_Oi9C8/VCTyM2SyfUI/AAAAAAAABXM/VebQ0L2OxKM/s1600/IMG_3514.JPG" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sabyinyo group.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: x-small;">All photos in this blog article also appear on Instagram @tembomdogo. </span>Ethan Kinseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16334652612139075633noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5867262107481263208.post-21993475960959121702014-09-23T16:51:00.003+03:002014-11-07T13:44:00.969+03:00Walking In RuahaIf you've read previous posts you will know about the guide training that I have organized and worked on in Ruaha National Park. Here's a link to an article published in Africa Geographic.<br />
<span style="color: #660000;"><br /></span>
<span style="color: #660000;"><a href="http://magazine.africageographic.com/weekly/issue-3/a-walk-on-the-wild-side/" target="_blank">http://magazine.africageographic.com/weekly/issue-3/a-walk-on-the-wild-side/</a></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VFS4ycf2WZQ/VCF6j3bSW0I/AAAAAAAABTU/LXC0SiKpmqg/s1600/IMG_1563.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VFS4ycf2WZQ/VCF6j3bSW0I/AAAAAAAABTU/LXC0SiKpmqg/s1600/IMG_1563.JPG" height="400" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A group of rangers watch elephants from a safe vantage point- can you spot them?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />Ethan Kinseyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16334652612139075633noreply@blogger.com0