For a long time references to Mwiba could only be found on
this blog, and then later a friend’s blog. It is a place I love for the freedom
that it offers and lots of little surprises. On a recent trip I guided we ended
perfectly with two nights at Mwiba Tented Camp or not quite both nights at the
camp.
Driving around in the open vehicle I was delighted to find
herds of impala that would normally have exploded into different directions as
we approached, and herds of buffalo that would have been a cloud of dust,
staring at us and not running from the vehicle. The hangover from heavy hunting
is slowly subsiding, we were able to watch a breeding herd of notoriously
aggressive Maswa elephants as they only briefly formed their protective
formation before relaxing and continuing to feed. Warthogs stared at us from
respective distances without running and even kudu didn’t disappear as soon as
we saw them.
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| An elephant behaving the way an elephant should- without fear or aggression. |
Of course the wildlife is still not as great as in the core
areas of some of the national parks, but it is still full of wonderful little
surprises such as the envied sighting of a pangolin. If you’re not familiar
with the Pangolin, it is a really special animal and this is only the second
time that I’ve seen one. You can read more about them on my previous post and here.
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| The Pangolin- a scaly anteater, normally nocturnal! |
However, my love for Mwiba is more about the ability to
create magic. While Tanzania’s wildlife is exceptional in national parks, the
necessary rules and regulations can be restrictive. Mwiba allows you to do
whatever you want, within the bounds of guiding ethics and etiquette.
Sitting around the fire watching the sun go down on the
first night, I challenged the guests- would they be able to sleep under the
stars on the same rock we were sitting, listening to hyenas and the distant
territorial roar of a lion. The next evening after a beautiful walk to the top
of a rocky outcrop we arrived at our sleep out.
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| Sundowners. One of the great safari traditions. Being outside National Parks allows enjoying them into the night without curfews to worry about. |
Now you have to imagine arriving behind a small rocky
outcrop. Its already dark and you can’t see anything. You can hear the African
night and the murmur of voices. You are led over the top of the rock and there
before you is a beautiful fire and candle lit barbecue- the smallest details
attended to, down to fine silverware and fancy-folded napkins on the table.
Moving to the fire after dinner the tables disappeared and out came the
bedrolls. Then the car is taken away and you’re left staring at the sky
listening to the crackle of the fire. It is magical.
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| One of the magical views! |
